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OT: 87 Chevy K20 6.2 diesel starter.

D

Doug in Illinois

Member
The old style 6.2 starter gave up because of low batteries, bought the gear reduction new style starter, which is physically smaller but makes more torque. Truck has been setting for about 3 years, but would be nice to have a spare truck. Problem is, the old starter was only being held on with one starter bolt, the big old starter couldn't move as it was flat against the block. Threads are stripped going into block with bolt broke off about 1/2 inch in. If I have to spend more than a couple hundred dollars more to get the old girl running again, I am just going to sell it as a parts truck, as tranny only has about 15K on it. Any ideas on how to keep the new starter in place without pulling the engine to fix it right? The new starter does have a small stud that MAYBE could build a bracket to the frame, but I'm not set up to do that. DOUG
 
1.) The hole LIKELY is NOT stripped. There is just a hole... NO threads for the first 3/8" or so. Get that broken bolt out of there, and get two new bolts to mount the starter. That unthreaded part of the hole matches the knurled part of the starter bolt, and acts as an alignment dowel. The CORRECT new bolts are only a couple of bucks.

2.) You need the little "kickstand" from the front of the starter to the engine block. It's likely still available from GM. I have the part # (as well as a spare bracket) at the shop, and can post it tomorrow, if you'd like.

If you want this to work without destroying the starter drive and ringgear, you need to fix it RIGHT, with both bolts, and the little brace all in place.
 
I do indeed already have the new starter bolts, when the one was missing I assumed it just worked itself out somehow. How do I get the broken bolt out of the hole, EZ outs and I don't get along, and I know the starter bolts are harder as opposed to softer material, so drilling out will be near impossible laying under the truck. I have a transmission repair shop 5/8 mile down the road from me, but won't take anything there, took them 3 trys to get a tranny right in a Ford diesel I used to own. Do have a shop in town I have used B4, should I ask them? DOUG
 
Doug,

Take Bob's advice, as he is right on spot.

Those threads are WAY up inside the hole, the bolts are designed soft on purpose and a small, slow left-twisting drill bit will yank that thing right down outta there.

I'd start with an 1/8" and work up to a 5/16" until the thing gives milk. Be sure and wear yer glasses. :>)

Allan
 
Allan:
Lacking a hoist, I did have an idea as to get her up in the air a little. The motor end is too heavy to lift without killing my 3 point boom, but bed end is light enough to lift with it. I don't trust putting it on blocks, but wonder if would work to pull front end on one car trailer from the side and lift the back and back the other trailer under it to get me some clearance. DOUG
 
Get some good quality left-hand thread drill bits. Start small, and work up to a larger drill. HOPEFULLY, the LH bit will "catch" and spin the remains of the bolt out. BT,DT, quite a few times.

There's no reason you can't jack up the front end and "crib" it up SAFELY with wood blocks.
 
that broke of bolt might be loose in the treads,i have taken out a few on these engines with just a small screw driver.
as bob said the missing bracket is key for survival of the 2 bolts.
 
I had a broken starter bolt on my '88 350. When I drilled it for an easy-out, the drill broke as it exited the end of the bolt. I ended up grinding the whole mess out with a carbide burr on a die grinder and re-tapping the hole.
 
I've changed many a race car transmission using the car trailer as a "low lift" ...always wanted to find a "used" set of those giant "display ramps" that some dealers have for new car displays, though it would be a quick and easy way to get a car off the ground.
What ever happened to good ol' home made "grease pits" on the farm?
 
6.2s breaking starter-bolts - or having one fall out - is a common occurence - especially if the rear support bracket is missing. As others have already stated - it's probably not stripped.

In regard to the rear bracket on the starter - it's necessary for either starter. The part # for the original pre-1988 direct-drive starter (24 or 27MT) is different than for the post-1988 gear-drive starter (28MT).
 
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