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Farmall 706 bad on gas!

R

relaurain

Member
1964 Farmall 706 with a gas 6 cylinder very bad on gas.
Checked timing and set it to TDC as book says to.
Don't know what else to do with this gas hog!!
A little advance or a new carb?
Any ideas and don't say get a diesel!! :)
 
You got that right. Mine is a 1963 and when I use to do heavy tillage with it I almost had to have the fuel delivery man sitting on the end of the field. And what about that shifting? I would like to get my hands on the guy that designed that. But other than that I have to say I really like that old tractor.
 
Allen in Neb had a problem this spring with a gas IH using so much it was fouling plugs as I recall. There was something about a needle valve seat in the carb I think. Maybe he or the person who solved it will see this.
 
well it is a 6 cyl gas....what else to expect. that is why there are tons of them for sale.
you tried a full tune up kit? (plugs,wires,cap,rotor.ect) might help a bit. could get the carb fine tuned by somone.
that's all i can think of
DF in WI
 
How bad is bad? Are the plugs normal looking or fouled out? What about exhaust, does it look/smell normal of does it smell of gas and black smoke?

I'd expect at least 5 gallons an hour if its doing anything much at all up to 8 if its really working would be pretty normal. I got rid of an old 4030 JD gas for that very reason, 60 gallons wouldnt get you through a 10 hour day of rolling hay.
 
I used to run a couple of 706 gas tractors when I was a kid. They are not so hard on gas - fill up after breakfast, after dinner, after supper and you can farm all day long!:^)
 
If I remember right, Allen solved the problem with a brand new carburetor.

I'm thinking that the 706 carb uses that electric solenoid instead of an adjustable load screw. The solenoid shuts the fuel off when you turn off the switch to keep the engine from "running on". When you turn the ignition switch on, the solenoid opens all the way for full fuel delivery. There is no in-between adjustment or setting.

If you want to do away with the solenoid, I think the packing, packing nut, and load adjustment screw from an M carb will fit right in there, and then you could lean that carb down a bit. I've never tried it, and I'm not recommending it, but it's an idea.
 
I used to work on the tractors another farmer had, and he had a 706 that he considered abusive on fuel also. An old Deere mechanic told me to get rid of the carburator with the solenoid valve and find a Zenith with the load needle instead. I did this and cut the fuel usage of this tractor considerably. If the engine 'ran on' or dieseled Charlie just let the clutch out with it in gear.
We dieselized on the farm by 1978 ours were all Deere. The Agway guy that delivered our fuel always said he could tell which farms used Deeres and which ones didn't without even looking. The farms that didn't run Deeres usually used at least 50% or more fuel than a Deere farm.
 
It should not use 5 gallons an hour! I have an 806 (for 15 years now) It ran out and I put 2 gallons in it , and brush hogged our front yard which takes an hour. Did not use all of the two gallons. Had trouble with that electric fuel solenoid a while back. Replaced it and no trouble since then. Reccomend you relace yours. I don't recall cost but it was not alot. $20 I think. Good luck.
 
It's not running rich cause it likes the choke pulled closed a little.
Has anyone tried to increase the compression ratio on these to get a little more bang for the buck? Or maybe a better camshaft?
 
Nebraska tractor test says it used 5.74 gallons per hour . It had 73HP. 12.16 hp per hour per gallon
 
806 in the nebraska test at full power took 7.410 gallon per hour Had 93.27 hp for 12.58 hp per gallon per hour .
 
First thing I'd do would be boost the old ignition system to the new generation hi energy hi voltage system 50K plus and the new four prong plugs including wires and all this to burn the watered down 87 octane gas that the towel heads are pawning off on us.You might check on the puller section to see what's out there as far as carbueration to get the power you need or take the carb to a reputable repair shop for a rebuild. I don't know if it will burn less gas but you may find a it will run in a gear higher. If I remember right the 706 loved it's petro but sorry guys I don't believe the JD crap either I've run them too ran one of the only 4020 gas I've ever seen and the only thing I saw was gas tank was bigger and took longer to fill up and created quite a sunburn from the muffler.
 
You're right about that. I had a DC Case. It was a toy , a thirsty toy. I am amazed at how that engine would lug. We have a hill near home that most tractors would not climb in high gear. Yet , that DC would climb it in high gear , low idle. Give it some throttle , and it would take off.
 
50,000 volts in an ignition system designed for 10,000 volts would be a disaster.50k will jump 1 inch in free air.Spark plug insulators could not take it.Big engines use more fuel...
 
Been all through this with an 806 engine.

Replace the carbureator with the newer style that doesn't have the fuel shutoff solenoid.

That high side jet just flat wobbles out and they go to suckin' fuel like a drunkin' sailor slurpin' watered-down beer in a Jap whorehouse.

My chore tractor went from 2 tanks a week to 3 or 4 per year.

Allan

SOB.JPG
 
relaurain: Get your head out of the sand, GET A DIESEL TRANSPLANT, there is no other solution, other than keep it parked.

You basically have a good parts tractor for a diesel transplant. Chassis of these gassers are usually in very good running condition, reason being, no one has been able or willing to afford enough gas to put a lot of hours on them.
 
Hugh,

The problem with that cure is finding the replacement diesel engine. Rare as hen's teeth even in salvage yards.

Then, there's the little hurdle of finding the right flywheel/clutch/etc.

Allan
 
My C291 doing light duty chores and rpm between 1100 and 1500 uses 1 1/3 gallon per hour. High rpm and full load it burns fuel with the worst of them.
 
At least it"s not an Oliver 1850 gasser like mine. There are 3 tanks for a reason. Pulls strong, but man is it thirsty.
 
I have beed reconditioning my fields so I've been using a 3/plow and a 14ft disk -very heavy.
I stay about half throttle in low range third gear. My tires are loaded so I get no slip pulling these. Today I will pull the plugs to take a look but it sounds like a new carb might help. I guess it is burning about what you have sad it would 5 gals an hour. I have been pulling a drag with my 4x4 3/4 ton Dodge truck with a v8 and three times the HP - it's cheaper to run!
Gotta luv fuel injection!
 
If you have to run with the choke out check your intake manifold gasket. Very common for these to leak on the 6cyl gassers. Spray some brakekleen or carb cleaner along the gasket. If the rpm increases you need a new gasket. A bad gasket will cause more fuel consumption and if run to long will burn valves and melt pistons.
 
Well first off ya did not set the timing correctly and are you running the correct plugs are the valves set , Are you running the correct fuel . also just what do you think your running a V.W. ?? and jus how much gas is your darn pick up going to burn if you were working it per hour . Did ya ever stop and think about that. They will suck down 4-5 gal . and hour and if ya want fuel economy then go by a David Brown . Put and 806 Diesel out along side a 706 gasser pulling the same plow in the same field and they will both use real close to the same amount .Now that the price of diesel is higher then high test it is now cheaper to run the 706.
 
As a Navy vet with 7 cruises to the Western Pacific I take exception to your comment about drunken sailors.
They weren't whorehouses, they were bathhouses with Geisha girls. And it was watered down Saki that was most often served.

Gordo
 
All due respects coupe36 but I put a hi energy ignition booster on my new 1974 chevy 4X4 when gas was the outrageous price of 50cents a gallon going to 70cents it boastedasparkplug voltage of over 45K it did the trick in fact so much that I was getting a white carbon buildup on the top side of the cylinder causing a knock which required me to run Kleenz in the carb to burn it out. The only problem was it caused noise in those old radios. I would be suprised if the voltage isn't higher now maybe 75K.
 
Vet just today plowed with both a 706 gas and an 806 diesel. Three 16's in low 3 with the 706 .Four 16's in low 4 with the 806 diesel. There is nothing close to equality between the two tractors.
 
You dont seem to understand the nature of ignition voltage.The plug fires at 10000 volts on average,once the plug fires the voltage drops to zero.Have a tune up shop put your ignition on an ignition scope you will see the actual voltage developed in the system.The ignition voltage is an alternating current that increases until the plug arcs.I have worked with 25 to 30000 volts for over 40 years in color tv.That voltage can eat insulation and crack glass when it arcs over.
 
You're right about that, I tried this after I first got the tractor and didn't see any change in RPM. I think the carb is just set kinda lean but I will probably get a new carb just to have it covered. From what I hear on this board, it's doing about what they do - drink gas.
Is over 5 gals an hour pretty bad for this size tractor and power?
Thanks!
 
Okay, you're dealing with a DA when it comes to eletronics I'm just going with advertised voltages people like Schaefer and the NASCAR ignition box which I can't remember their name (Smmit I think) the advertised high voltage ignitions that seem to work. So tell me what is going on with the new electronic igintions as advertised I say new because after I did mine in 74 Chevy came out with their own in 75 advertising 50K at the plugs? I'm just curious trying to get smarter with gas prices what they are.I do remember Lawn-Boy's two-cycle mower back in the 50's boasting 50K at the plug.LOL
 
Have a shop check your ignition voltage.Company claims are always suspect.Lawnboy coils were not big enough to produce 50KV.Ive replaced many bad ones.50 years in small engines.Lawnboys spark plug wire would have arced to the shroud,never made it to the plug.
 
You might try advancing the timing. Move it up a couple degrees at a time untill it starts to ping. Then back it down. It may take some time to find the sweet spot. Make sure the mechanical advance is working correctly. There are very few gas engines out there that the factory timing spec wasn't conservative. I'd also ditch the points and condenser for an electronic conversion. I have found on 2 small tractors that going from a .025-.030 plug gap with an electronic conversion to .045 made a big difference in starting and idle quality. Check your distributor shaft. If it wobbles, your timing will vary which can affect fuel economy. Just to be sure, you did make sure the aircleaner is not restricted don't have a loose baffle in the muffler restricting the exhaust right?
 
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