Ford 861 Power Master and Ferguson 3 Pt. Plow

Anyone had experience with hooking an older model Ferguson 3 pt. two bottom 12" plow probably in the 1940"s year, to a Ford 861 Power Master? What I found were two things for which someone's expert commentary would be appreciated:

1. The lift pins on the Ferguson plow are original but are two short to accomodate both the lift arm and sway bar from the tractor. Is this normal? Only way to accomodate is cut off the original lift pin on the plow and weld longer pins.
2. Second problem I encounted was the front coulter of the plow sits so close to the PTO shaft there is only about 1/2" clearance. The coulter cannot be moved back as they are not adjustable. In my opinion this is too close and my conclusion is this plow does not fit this tractor but I thought most any older model 3 point plow would fit a Ford tractor as long as the plow was a 3 point vintage product.

Anyone have an experience like this or know for sure if this plow should fit or not? Thanks for any help or advise.

You shouldn't use sway bar(s) with a plow.

1/2" is close, but why would you need MORE clearance?

Not a ferg but a Ford. It is not advisable to use stab on a ground engaging tool. It will follow the tractor if set right. If you feel that it slams to much on the corners,take up a link or two on your sta chains. 2, I have always heard a miss is good as a mile. I don't use my coulters. You don't need them in most gardens. I have an 841 with 101 Ford 2-14.

Thanks, MF Poor. Curious - why aren't sway bars used when plowing as w/o them the lift arms are allowed to come within within fraction of inch of the rear tire.

Second - 1/2" may or may not be too close but I was wondering if someone knew for sure if that was a safe distance or if their particular plow or coulter was that close.

Thanks for your input.

Thanks, Murn Ga. What is the reason stabilizers aren't recommended for plowing?

Also, good suggestion on taking up link on sta chains - didn't think of that but also didn't want to affect some other adjustment but don't think would. I'm a newby as you can probably tell but did grow up on farm but not plowing with small older tractors like Ford

Also - so coulters are only used when ground is hard or never been plowed? Seems cutting the earth prior to the plow doing so would just make it easier on both plow and tractor.

Appreciate your good input.

Frank: As the other guy said you don't use stabilizers on plows because you want the plow to follow the natural draft line between the plow and the tractor. Attaching the stabilizers is a good way of bending them. The reason for this is that sometimes you plow ground on a curve (If you contour plow) contour plowing follows the natural topography of the land, and prevents erosion. Coulters are optional equipment in worked ground, and are sometimes a necessity in plowing down sod, for example. If the coulter is hitting the pto shaft, something is wrong. Go back to basic plow set up geometry, if you have a question about this, ask.

I have the same setup...ford 860 with ferguson chisel plow. I have searched far and w i d e with no luck on finding lift pins that will accomodate sway bars. I am now curious as to why sway bars are not recommended with plows. Any input on either where I can find longer lift pins with 5/8" threads and class 1 size or reasoning why not to use sway bars with a plow would be appreciated.

i have to take off my overriding clutch (attached to my pto shaft for bushhogging) ,,if i don't the plow will break the end of the pto off..plows do work better with the colliers on, and its probably easier on the mowboards over a long period,less wear on the front corner,, you might be able to torch the collier shaft & bend it slightly back??

Just a thought, If you have an ORC on the PTO you"ve lost probably an inch or more of clearance.

I may have a similar set up, 850 and Harry Ferguson plow, might be a 14" though, never used sway bars with this, and the coulter pto thing is interesting, I plan on getting an overrunning clutch for the rotary cutter, will have to eyeball that dimension.

The coulters seem to be best for sod bound land, that slice does make things easier, the plow I have only has the outside one, but 1 is better than none. I like the set up, it does a decent job ,once you have that plow adjusted correctly and the wear parts on the plow are shined up, point ( forget what you call that again ) on each plow is sharp, not rounded off from wear.

I've got an 861and a 2-14" ferguson. You are in for a learning experience if you have never used one. Yank the coulter off not needed thing plug up to fast. I don't have a tail wheel. Came that way. Don't use swaybars , once the plow is set right it goes where it is supposed to.
If i remember right over on the ford board somebody had put out a PDF on how to set up a ferguson plow. That's where i got my start 2 years ago.
Quite frustrating in the beginning but now its quite easy. Rule number one is have near new plow shares or you are in deep trouble being a greenhorn at this type of plow.
Try to find that pdf it is your only hope or maybe somebody has it . Great little plows when you get used to them . I hated the plow when i started now i cant wait to use it. I just got done plowing an acre yesterday. Oat stubble, getting ready for some winter wheat.

Take care

Farmer

Makes sense. Thank you very much Dave. The coulter isn't hitting the PTO just awfully close but as one commenter said...close not a problem if not touching as once plow is hooked up it can't move foward. Appreciate the good explanation of why stabs are used for plowing.

Bill - did you see the rationale from Dave for not using stabs when plowing? If not take a look - I thought made sense and good explanation. So, guess you don't need to worry about changing lift pins.

Thanks, Billy. I got some good input from folks who have more experience and knowledge than me. Apparently, stabs are not needed when plowing and as far as the distance between coulter and PTO - one commenter stated as long as you have clearance that is ok as the plow doesn't move forward or backward when properly attached.

Good suggestions and ones I had not thought about as far as torching front coulter shaft. Thanks for the tip Treeboy.

Yeah, I was glad to catch this thread, though I've used this set up for about 6 years, first time I used it was in heavily sod bound soils, but was plowing down hill, also some small roots, was interesting, but not too much trouble to get it going right.

You want to obviously level it up in the furrow, by adjusting the leveling box, then set your top link, try er out, if it does not pull in at full depth, adjust the top link to make the point bear down a little more, if the points are sharp and adjsuted these don't appear to be that hard to deal with ( I also seem to have a mental block for remembering the correct terms for all the mold board plow wear parts. ). Mine does not have a gauge ( tail wheel ) either, not even sure if my draft position is working correctly, still not much of a problem to flip that soil.


About 4 years ago, previously turned, disc'd, then turned again as in the photo. Level box was seized, you can see the lean and I'd like to have been able to adjust that a little, so I fixed that box and can really roll over the sod now. Tjis was for a customer, was an old garden area, planted with grass, rye cover crop.

First off that plow should work good on that tractor, only thing that tractor should handle a 3 bottom with no trouble, The coulters were not an option but standard on every plow and it is not wise to try to plow without them, it will never work correctly if they are not there. And if it has not clearance for the coulter to pto shaft sounds like you have the pto extension still bolted on, 4 bolts where the stay chains mount, it needs to be removed for everything except a pull type pto powered implement hooked to the swinging drawbar or as standard the V bar that fastens to the lift arms and the 11 hole cross drawbar. And those are stay, not sway chains and are the correct length when the lift arms are up in top as far as they will go with the 11 hole drawbar in place, if you shorten them then the lift arms will not raise and something will break, they were made correct and non adjustable for length when tractor was made. And the plows were designed for use without the stabilizer bars. Check that PTO because there is something on it that does not belong there if it is anyware close to the plow. Could be an over running clutch that you need to take off as well as the pto extension.

A plow with stabilizer bars is sort of like a ship with a locked rudder. Not much chance of turning. If you need to make even the slightest adjustment is steering direction, a plow with stabilizer bars will prevent you from turning. A plow SHOULD be adjusted correctly so that it trails the tractor centerline with the center of the draft line of the plow. It'll follow naturally and not need stabilizers. If it NEEDS stabilizers to stay centered and you DO use them, the plow will walk the tractor to one side or the other. (like that rudder)

I have a 58 861 diesel, 53 Jubilee, and a 52 8n and I have used them all with the same plow setup you have and they have all worked well. Some better then others, but they have all worked. My plow came with the coulters and tail wheel all in working order. I have learned thru experience that I do not need the coulters and the stabilizer bars. I regularly plow about 6 acres of ground without much problem, in fact the coulters caue more problems on then not having them on and if the tractor is set up properly you should have no need for the stab bars.
HTH Alan