Removing radiator on a Farmall M

I need a little help. I'm in the process of restoring a 1951 M and need to know just how the radiator is secured to the frame. I have taken off the support rod extending over the engine but am not sure how to remove the entire radiator assembly. I don't want to booger up the fins, etc. and to avoid any damage, I thought I would check with the Farmall experts out there. Would appreciate any information you could give me. Thanks. HF6

There are mounting bolts in the bottom of the radiator under the tractor, they are pretty hard to get at, but they need to be removed to get the radiator out. You also need to remove the steering shaft, it runs through the radiator.

Hard to get at is the key. the nuts are up under the frame and it takes a while to get them. An extra deep socket on an extension will handle it. Need to get the nuts clean first and use lots of PB Blaster top and bottom . I also have cut the bolts off under the radiator and then brazed new ones on the same place. Goes a lot faster Henry

They are not that hard to get to. Easier than an H. I belive a 3/4" socket and a 8" extesion will do the job, maybe an 11/16, cant recall. Shoot some penetrating oil on the nuts and take it ewasy until the spin free and youll be good to go.

I agree with John,

Soak 'em real good with penetrating oil for a couple of days to prevent twisting the mounting studs out of the radiator.

Not that hard to get to; a deep socket on an extension. 9/16 or 11/16; can't remember. :>(

Allan

Nobody mentioned that it's a castle nut. Make sure you get the key out. And to make it easier to get out the next time, I just used bailing wire. Yes, its redneck, but it is going to keep the nuts from turning.

after the bottom two bolts and the stay rod are off, the steering shafft must come out. remove the big pipe plug from the front of the steering bolster, there is oil in there, and up at the steering coupler near the temp and oil pressure gauge you need to remove the clamp bolt on the joint, then spread it a little, a chisel tapped lightly in there will open it a little to get the shaft out. then unscrew the steering shaft and it will walk forward out of the front of the bolster. you will also need to unbolt the fanshroud from the radiator, set the shroud back toward the engine and lift the radiator up and out. heres some pics.
lower mounting studs on radiator
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bottom of bolster where studs pass thru
<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=DCP02280.jpg" target="_blank"></a>
steering shaft retaining cap.
<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=DCP02281.jpg" target="_blank"></a>
radiator removed
<a href="http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o234/glennster_01/?action=view&current=DCP02282.jpg" target="_blank"></a>
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You need to use an allen wrench to loosen the forward collar located underneath the throttle lever or the steering shaft will not slide back when disconnecting the u-joint.
Don"t forget to remove the half moon key when you get the steering u-joint backed off.
After loosening the large plug at the front of the steering shaft (watch for oil) just rotate the shaft and it will unscrew out of the gear box.
No need to remove the cotter key or the hex nut on the end of the shaft unless replacing the bearing. Be careful or IH will want to charge you $70+ for a new bearing; take the old one and locate the numbers on the bearing. NAPA or a bearing store can get a bearing for less than $20.

And if the stud comes out in one piece, don't worry about it, 'cause actually you are now ahead of the game. Just clamp that stud in your vice, heat the nut with a torch and remove it. Clean the threads on the stud and it's ready to go back in.

Baling wire? On a farm tractor? Whoda thunk it?

I keep an assortment of new and used cotter pins as well as a few different diameters of wire. That way I just about always have the exact size I need.