OT: 01 Chevy 2500 4x4 quit.

My pickup quit, 01 2500, not HD, 6.0 gas. Acted like running out of gas. Gas gauge has been acting REAL weird, would go from true level to below empty then maybe back to 1/4 tank before bouncing to real level. It will start on starting fluid, so know it is a fuel problem. Fuses are all good, as mentioned just acted like out of gas, it did try to start ONCE after it quit. Am I missing a filter somewhere, or is everything in the dad blasted fuel tank? If I have to go thru the hassle of pulling the pump out of the tank I am going to put a brand new pump in. Can Ebay one for less than 200 with shipping, local is 275+. I understand supporting our local stores, but this may be an exception. DOUG
 
Put in a new "fuel unit. It will likely solve the gas gauge problem, as well as the "no start" problem.

Of course, you could always hook up a gauge and VERIFY there's no fuel pressure BEFORE dropping the tank (but what fun would THAT be)???

BTW, IIRC, that was one of the years involved in the GM recall for faulty electrical connectors at the top of the fuel unit. Might want to see if GM will be of any help here.
 
Should also mention, no codes were set. Smelled of rotten eggs for the last day or two B4 it quit, power not really there and MPG suffering. DOUG
 
"Have you been under the truck and whacked the tank with a moderate blow with the key on? Sometimes you can hear the pump start turning."


Not unless you are VERY quick, as the pump "times out" 3 seconds after the key is switched to "ON".

HOWEVER, in the electrical fuse center under the hood, on the driver's side, there is a little "socket" where you can jumper power to to keep the fuel pump on steady, then crawl under the truck and whack the tank with a 2X4. BT,DT.
 
With the way my gooseneck is installed, pulling the bed not going to be easy. Honestly thinking about just getting more wheels for my grinder and cutting a hole above the pump, with the gooseneck the bed is already damaged, along with the too much stuff thrown in the bed denting it. Will weld patch over it later. DOUG
 
Check out the power and grounds to the tank, especially the pluginski's in the wiring harness. Look for melted plastic around the pins. Poor grounds would explain alot of the problems.
 
I read the response to your posting telling the 3 second time out. Grabbed my axe to use the top to tap the tank within the 3 seconds. Will start and run for about 5 or 8 seconds B4 it quits again. I now know it is IN the tank, fuel pump. DOUG
 
That's NOT correct. The 'puter cycles the fuel pump relay for about 3 seconds at "key on", whether or not the pump actually runs.

After that 3 second window, the pump is powered down.

So, you either have to have a helper cycle the key, or make a darned fast trip from turning on the key to under the truck in 3 seconds!
 
you probably have a wiring issue with the whole thing so get a complete unit at a dealer or Napa if you can when it comes time to change it later on the lifetime warranty will be worth it. I used the cheaper ones before and they all fail usually just after warranty is out then the cost has doubled and passed the lifetime one price. I understand that budgets are tight but that e-bay pump I would stay away from
 
An O2 sensor would set a code.

I put a different box on my '89 Chev Xcab 4X4 last winter and repainted the whole pickup. I've been kicking myself ever since for not putting a new fuel pump in while it was right there in front of me.
 
O2 sensor determines how rich or lean fuel mixture is. Never heard of one stopping fuel entirely. More answers please. I do 99%of work on 6 vehicles and would like to hear the solution. Call me curious George.
 
O2 sensor determines how rich or lean fuel mixture is. Never heard of one stopping fuel entirely. More answers please. I do 99%of work on 6 vehicles and would like to hear the solution. Call me curious George.
 
my '00 2500 6.0 will sometimes start but die, repeatedly, in one out of 100 starts. Other 99 times it starts normally. If you give it half petal or more it will then run & idle normally & run okay. Did you see anything like that? The fuel pump in our models is designed to be cooled by gasoline. Constantly running on less than half tank means fuel pump failure, oftentimes. When I get down to half tank I fill it up.
 
You should install a pressure gauge and see what your fuel pressure is. I had a GM 2.5L that would shutoff like it was out of gas, but would restart instantly. I decide to install a gauge and found the pressure would drop when trying to accelerate on a hill.

I pulled the tank and pump and found a lot rust around the pickup tube. I vacuumed the tank and installed a new pump. No problems with stalling after that. Hal
 
Check your fuel pressure and for power back at the tank connector.

I'm betting you got a fuel pump that went bad. A VERY, VERY common problem on GM's.
 
I may be too late, but the fuel pump is the culprit. When replacing most independent shops unbolt and jack up the bed to replace. The fuel pump and gauge sending unit are replaced as a unit at same time. Use only a AC Delco GM part to replace. The aftermarket off brands have a high failure rate. Running around on a near empty gas tank causes these units to "Burn out" prematurely.
 

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