Figures......

I went out to set up the C today, and remembered i somehow lost my (rear seal cover) seal. So i used some of that formagakset stuff on there. That takes 24 hours to cure. Oh well.

So. How do i set up the clutch on this thing??? I know the bell-shaped thing bolts to the flywheel with the disk thingy in it, and thats all i know, so i do need help here.

And i think and hope i got the rear seal right. I simply pulled the old one out and slipped the new cork one in its place. Im guessing thats right?? Manuel doesnt say. Thanks for taking up my questions everyone!!

talking like a man......... bell shaped thing and disk thingy dont cut it!!

come on lanse get the manual out and use that to describe what part needs to go where love to help but thingy is not on the parts list .

mabey i dont talk like you, but i can get a point across and am willing to learn from people here, from my mistakes and from what little expierence i have. Most importantially i dont hide behind my moniter and use fake names. If you think its worth saying, its worth holding your own to get that point across.




And its a pressure plate. Any i'll remember the other one....

He's doing ok! How much did you know at 15. Difference is Lanse is trying and doing and learning. I applaud Lanse as he could be into a lot worse than tractors.

Lanse,
The disk thingy is a friction disk, or driven disk.
It is placed between the flywheel and the Pressure plate (the bell thing). The driven disk can go in wrong if the springs in the center (torsion springs)
are placed on the flywheel side. This is because almost all clutches similar to yours follow that principle. If wrong, it will interfere with the bolts holding the FW to the crank. Centering the driven disk in the FW is very important when putting this together. A clutch alignment tool is best, it is the same as the input shaft for the trans, but is short, and often made of plastic.
this tool fits the driven disk hub splines, and has a smaller tip that enters the pilot bearing in the center of the crank. (The pilot bearing should be lubed well now with chassis grease on your little finger. Just enough to make it coated, not packed in)
If no centering tool is available, it is possible on some to carefully center the disk on the old wear marks, and tighten the Pressure plate down on it evenly. (tighten each bolt about two turns, then go to the next, drawing uniformly on the PP bolts till torqued to spec. Then check the centering again.
If it is not centered, the engine will bend the Driven disk when it encounters the misaligned disk and pilot bearing. Leave the trans in high gear to allow turning the rear wheel to spin the splines a bit to align them.
Never force the engine into the bellhousing. It must stab in there cleanly, and with little resistance. Long bolts for the bellhousing with the heads cut off placed in the holes can make getting things straight pretty easy. Keep us informed, and good luck. JimN

ok, sorry. Put another way, how do i align the clutch plate with the flywheel?? The manuel simply says to "Use a peice of the old clutch shaft or some sutiable tool". I dont even know what that means

You talking about the throwout bearing and clutch fork I think it's called been along time since I had my hands inside a bell housing . and take it easy if we did not like you do you think we would take the time to give you crap

Thanks JimN!! I get it now!!!

Well this turkey likes me alot then.

I will, thanks Leland. This is my first time doing anything this deep into a tractor, and i love it. This is facinating, i've learned alot. Thanks Everyone!!!

make sure you replace the pilot bearing in the crank most of them are a piece of brass and easy to remove and reinstall

it called paying your dues ,belive me when I was your age the old farts put me thru he!! but it's just a right of passage for each young man .

disky thing well dah I should have gotten that he jan is leading you in the right direction I will let him keep going .I don't see how I missed that one LOL

Welp, small price to pay then

I've missed worse

Some Allis's don't have a pilot bearing. My WD 45 don't. Harold

well it beats a sitck in the eye or being turned upsidedown and having your peter greased anyway

Several longer bolts with the head cut off and shaft rounded like a half sharpened pencil really help to align the engine with the transmission.
Time spent reading the manual repeatedly also help to get the work done correctly the first time and doesn't cost anything.

If you dont have a clutch alignment tool get something that will fit in the pilot bearing in the flywheel,maybe a handle on a 3/8 drive ratchet,get a roll of black tape,wrap tape around the handle until it will just fit in the splines of the clutch disc.It works.
An oil seal is not usually made of cork.Maybe what you mean is a gasket that holds a plate on that has the oil seal in it?Whatever you are talking about there you need a new seal if you replaced the crank,and if its a piece that can be unbolted,there is a gasket that needs to be replaced also.Maybe permatex would work for that,but it cant cost much for that gasket,less than a dollar,or you could cut it out from gasket material.If you have a new oil seal that has a rubber seal area it might need to have oil on it.I dont have time right now to try and look it up,but before you put the motor in,you have to have that stuff right.Hopefully somebody thats had these motors apart will see this and tell you what to do.Bolts with the heads cut off really help when trying to line up your bellhousing to the block.

Lanse, is the rear end of your tractor blocked up with the wheels off the ground, or resting on it's tires?

I ask because there's another trick for turning the shaft so the splines line up with the clutch disc, instead of turning a wheel with the tractor in gear as Jim described. That is to leave the transmission in neutral but engage the PTO and turn the PTO shaft to line up with the sprocket. (This assumes your tractor has a PTO --if not, file this away for another tractor that does!)

Just to be clear, Jim's method works, too. Where I've found mine useful is when the rear is resting on its tires. You have a lot of geometry goin' on in three dimensions, roll, pitch, and yaw, tryin' to line up the shaft and the fit between the bell and the back of the motor, all while you have the back end jacked up and the motor swingin' (probably not enirely level!) on a hoist.

It depends on how the particular job was laid out, but I've usually had the rear resting on its tires by the time I get close enough in the whole exercise that gettin' the shaft through the disc is the next step, and I don't want to move the back of the tractor if I can help it. 1) It only means more adjustments to everything else to get back to the line up I was going for and 2) I usually have a bottle jack under the bell at this point to help with adjusting the vertical angle of the rear end and don't want to take ANY chance of tipping that jack and dropping the whole shebang. Can you spell D-I-S-A-S-T-E-R?

Other times I've had the rear up on blocks (not stands), and found that the PTO turned easier than the bare hub. YMMV.

In short, Jim's suggestion will work just fine for you if you're blocked up. If not, try mine if things are lining up pretty well otherwise.

And my last word (Promise!) is to remind you to go easy and be patient. It's okay to pry a little to try lining things up, but don't force anything. It may take some jacking on the front of the bell, some jiggin' around and raisin' and lowerin' of your engine hoist, maybe even rotating the motor a little around the axis of the shaft, but when things line up, she'll startle you with how slick she slips right in.

Keep us posted!

Lanse, I almost replied to this one last night, but I figured you'd get better advice from folks who've actually worked on an Allis. Clutch stuff is pretty generic, but once in awhile there's a make-specific [Allis, JD, IHC] glitch you'll run into.

When I was your age, I was already a garage rat, having hung out at Dad and Grand-dad's repair shop since I was about 8 years old. So I pretty much understood clutch discs and pressure plates and release bearings [I hate the term "throwout bearing," because the bearing enables the clutch to release; it doesn't "throw out" anything!] and pilot bearings/bushings. Grand-dad kept an assortment of clutch alignment tools, usually old transmission input shafts kept from his 45+ years of wrenching before I started hanging around the shop.

Just keep asking questions, and when the folks who know speak, remember to listen. That'll go a long way. And good luck with your Project Orange!

OK, will do, thanks.

I pulled the old cork rear seal out. It was round, about the width of a fist, and really matted down. It was cork.

I just slid the new one in where the old one was, and then slipped the whole thing over the end of the crankshaft and it went over very well. I hope i got that right.......

Lanse, that turkey is the one that makes stupid remarks ( and doesn't use his name ) to many people on the forums so just ignor it. I think it's great your honest and trying to learn, good luck. By the way, we all learn something new each day or should.

Well,if thats the way it was,and you put it back the same way,I would say its right.The main thing is just do things right,you know,take your time.I remember when I was a kid,people would tell me lots of stuff,but I didnt get what they were saying sometimes,and mess stuff up.I havent worked on a Allis Chalmers other than a WD 45,and all I did to it was take a head off,put a head gasket on it,put it back together.I dont know much about Allis Chalmers so I was just trying to see if you were skipping any steps maybe.Motors as you know now,are not that easy to work on,but the next one is easier.Once you have 10 under your belt you will be on your way to being a mechanic.The first motor I rebuilt,I thought I knew everything,was about 19,it blew up on the way to town 6 miles away.Hope you do better than I did.Since then,knock on wood,none have blown up,and It has to be over 150 rebuilt motors,mostly diesels,and probably 50 gas motors.I had a lawnmower one time though that I overhauled,and it wouldnt run.I worked on that thing for 2 weeks after work.It would fire and run about a minute and die and not start any more.I replaced everything,block,crank,cam,flywheel,piston,new points,condenser,a few times on the points and condenser,and it was the same.Other people helped me,and finally all of us gave up and I took it to a lawnmower shop where a friend of mine worked.He changed a few parts,it did the same thing,I helped him and we worked on this thing all morning one Saturday.Finally he said"I am going to fix this"I said "Yeah right" he took a sledgehammer and knocked it off of the base.Then beat it to smaller pieces.I bought a brand new motor and put it on,started it up,and didnt have any more trouble with it.So every once in a while you can do everything right,you think,and maybe it wont work.I still dont like lawnmowers.

I still cant stand them.

Reminds me of a battery charger. I got one from harbor freight, and it broke within a week. Out of bordom, me and one of my friends smashed it up one day with hammers. When we were done picking it up, i said we had made it better. It diddnt work, and it diddnt look like it did either