About time

today i managed to get all the bearings in the "C", and it turns as it should thanks to agco shims. Tomorrow im hoping to put it back together. I have all the wireing cut off, so im just setting the battery in, then hooking up the starter. Then using the mag for the B on there. How do i shut it off?? This mag doesnt have anything for a grounding wire on it. So:

1. My manuel doesnt say how to install the new rear seal. Or the front (i guess you just slide the thing over the end of the crankshaft).

2. It doesnt say what to torque the oil pan bolts, or the rear seal bolts. Or the front seal.

3. how do i start it??? I know to spin the engine to get the oil pump going, but what else?? Diddnt someone say to run it for 15 minuites then change the oil???

4. anything else i should know??? Thanks

Im not really familar with the C, but I can give a cpl answers that might help. First off if you cant find any grounding lug on the mag you can just turn the idle screw out far enough that you can close the throttle plate completely and if it still wont shut off you can always just slap yer hand over the throat and choke it down. I dont know why youd need to change oil after 15 mins unless it still has a lot of contaminates in it ( like waterey oil)
As far as seals go most engines Ive built (which aint all that many) have a full circle front seal that just slips over the crank and 2 half circle pieces because of the flange on the end.
Be sure to follow instructions with seals as I found out the hard way because some seals require a completely dry start-up which usually means using rubbing alchahol to clean the surfaces while others you can oil when you install...goodluck OCG

on the mag....is therea little piece of metal sticking out of the mag? when my dad had a WC you had to push a little piece of metal that was attached to the mag that grounded it out to shut it off. sorry i don't have a pic
DF in WI

One way to shut it off is to turn off the gas and let it run out of fuel. I do that on my 1935 JD-B takes a few minutes but it does work. That mag should have a clip sort of thing on the side and you just push it down to shut it off. Been to long since I sent it to you to remember if the clip is there or not. Either way there should be a small bolt sticking out the side of it and if so you just short that out and it will turn it off

If nobody knows the torque on those bolts there is a chart somebody had not too long ago on here that is a general specification for bolts by their size that you could use for that.Another place to ask the torque on bolts is where you buy parts might have a way of looking it up.I dont know about changing the oil after 15 minutes of running,unless you put a new cam in,but you want to change it quick.A lot of the reason is that when you have a motor apart it gets a lot of dust inside that you might not even see.The oil washes this down into the pan,and you want to get it out.But you could probably run it a week or 2 first if you didnt change the cam.You want to run it enough that you think its going to be alright before you change it.Sure the filter should take a lot of it out,but I like to change the oil quick since I had an oil pump sieze up on me a while back right after I rebuilt a motor.Took it apart and it had a lot of small pieces of metal in the pump which siezed it.Only thing I can think of since I washed it out at the car wash before I put it together is that those peices of metal were laying in there somewhere and they got washed down by the oil and picked up in the pickup tube and locked the oil pump,since I had a new pickup and screen and oil pump on the motor.I also had a new cam and lifters too,but I changed the oil after 20 minutes of running the motor at 2000 RPM.I have rebuilt lots of motors before that and never had any trouble with them.Changed cams too.I guess it shows that its hard to get a motor clean enough when you rebuild it.Maybe somebody can tell you about those particular seals.Some need oil,some you dont even want to touch the sealing surface because the oil on your skin will mess them up.Thats on accessory drive seals on Cummins motors,made out of some kind of stuff like teflon.I doubt that your seals are like that,but I dont know about those motors.Some seals have a tool that comes with them usually made out of plastic,to install them with,thats on Caterpillar crank seals if I remember right.I dont want to overload your mind with information,but I thought it might be an opportunity for you to see that there are lots of things to consider when you build a motor,even more than what you have with a complicated motor like yours.You have to learn a lot to be a mechanic,but its fun for me.Ask lots of questions,especially mechanics that work on motors like that will know lots of things you wont find in a book.I think you will want to leave the oil in until you have the valves adjusted right,its running good,and youve worked it a little to see if its alright.