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OT: water well pressure tank recharge question

C

cadet trooper

Well-known Member
We've lived in our new house for nine years and I think it is time to recharge our well pressure tank since almost everytime we turn on a faucet after a couple seconds the well pump comes on. I think mostly caused by my wife and others who have stayed here (city folk) don't understand when the power is off don't flush the toilet and the water softener is scheduled to come on around 2:00am during a power outage has drained my pump pressure down. Here is how I remember to recharge and that is turn off breaker to the pump then open all faucets and flush all toilets to drop pressure to zero then close everything including toilet supply valves then turn the breaker back on and let the pump run until the pressure switch shuts it off then turn on toilet supply valves and you're good to go. Am I correct on this procedure or do you have a suggestion? Thanks CT
 
Is there a automotive type valve stem on or near the tank/piping?
Installing a bladder tank is the real solution. Bigger is better.
 

Sounds like the bladder has a hole in it and is not holding pressure. If so, new tank is the only solution.

KEH
 
My Bladder tank calls for 30# of air, If you think as I do that it is waterlogged, shut off the pump and open the furtherest spigot, drain the whole system at the tank close all the spigots turn on the pump,let it build max pressure, then starting at the closest spigot, open slowly to release the air, shut that one off and keep going up the line with all the spigots until the last one is bled and you should be good to go
 
I have small bladder tank since 92 and every once in while i just give a shot of air and she works great. these things aren't rocket science they just need to work fairly good.
Walt
 
Say I have no water and no pressure. I prime pump and pump water till pressure builds to 20 lbs. Then I add air till I reach 40 lbs. pressure. That seems to be
a good balance for my system which has no bladder.
 
(quoted from post at 21:15:39 06/28/08) My Bladder tank calls for 30# of air, If you think as I do that it is waterlogged, shut off the pump and open the furtherest spigot, drain the whole system at the tank close all the spigots turn on the pump,let it build max pressure, then starting at the closest spigot, open slowly to release the air, shut that one off and keep going up the line with all the spigots until the last one is bled and you should be good to go
Click to expand...


your bladder tank air setting should be two or three psi less than your pressure switch cut in setting bleeding the spigots wont help him he needs to get his air pressure set back where it needs to be. those schrader valves will leak some times. cadet trooper i cant tell from your post what type tank do you have ? is yours a bladder type with a schrader valve on top or a non bladder type?
 
The tank needs to be empty and pump off to check and recharge ,if you have a 20-40 pump then about 18lbs a 30-50 about 28 .and if this does not solve the pump problem then the bladder might be bad inside tank some do leak and you will need a new tank or maybe your check valve is leaking and letting the tank drain back have saw that before also
 
I had that problem on my other house that had well water. You couldn't draw off a cup of water without the pump coming on. I had changed the air volume control several times and it never lasted any length of time. My neighbor had a Case dealership and the son did plumbing and he sold me another air volume control and it was junk too.

I happened to stop at our local plumbing warehouse in town and I was asking the manager what he recommended. He said I have a glass lined storage tank with a bladder and after installing it let it build up pressure until it shuts off then drain off the pressure until you have 20 to 25 psi then use an air supply and pump the pressure up to 40 psi and then turn on your pump. Never had any more water logged tanks.

When I told my mom and dad about the tank my mom said we're having the same problem. She said to get her a tank like that and I installed one for them. You may need a new tank is something has happened to the bladder. Hal
PS: This was back in 1963.
 
Mine also has no bladder. I figure it needs air when water leaks out the valve stem on the tank, too much air when the condensation shows my 80 gallon tank only has 8 inches of water in the bottom. Otherwise, the behavior that the original poster mentioned? I thought that was normal!
 
It depends on what type of tank you have. Is it a precharged (with a bladder), or is it a standard galvanized (with check valve, snifter valve, air volume control, etc.), or is it a float tank (with float diaphram in the tank)?

If it"s a precharged, you shut off the pump, open a faucet to drain the system. Leave the faucet on while you check the air in the top of the tank. The pressure on top of tank should be 2-5 psi less than the cut-in pressure of the system (pump comes on at 30psi, 25-28psi in top of tank). When finished, turn the pump back on - you"re done.

A galvanized tank should take care of itself, if the drain valve in the well and the snifter valve is working. If not, then what you describe will work for a while, but you will have to do it every now and then.

If it"s a float tank, take my advice and THROW IT AWAY!!!! They were junk when they were first thought of, and they haven"t healed up any.

Hope this helps,
Dale(MO)
 
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