Lesson Learned

Allan in NE

Well-known Member
Okay,

When ya can't get those blade bolts loose with a 3/4" breaker bar so as to sharpen the blades, ya jack 'er up and crawl underneath with the trusty angle grinder.

Worked good. :>)

Allan

bladesharp.JPG
 
always the easiest way I've found. On the rear-mounted brushhog, I used to have a creek bank I could back out over & get underneath w/o the jacking part.
 
Allen, I sure hope our younger readers don't see this. Us old timers are smart enough to see the major safety issues there.
Please put me in your will:)
BTW, try a 40 grit flap wheel on the next blades you sharpen. They are fabulous for that job.

Gordo
 
Well at least the cells of the concrete block face up ;) have to do the same routine, or used to quite often, car ramps always left set up for sharpening and cleaning that deck out after, but have learned just keep it up high if in questionable areas, sharpen, balance, hit a rock or something, repeat. Level deck and properly sharpened blades make a noticeable difference, always worth doing. You must have been able to get to both sides of the blade bolts, bet those new ones have anti seize on em now.
 
But, but, but...............I don't see the chain with Tractor Talk approved load binder at each corner.
 

I always use an impact wrench. Can't get the blades blocked to use a pull handle.

KEH
 
Your rig almost looks safe.
A guy I bought some stuff off had to get his father out from under a bushhog (deceased). He was sharpening the blades with only a farm jack holding it up.
 
Don"t even tell me you left it in gear with the brakes locked ! Don"t you remember that"s hard on the tranny ? ><~
 
The deck looks like a Woods mower. If your blades turn to the left when you mow, the bolts are left handed. But you probably already knew this so ignore my rambling and be safe. Car ramps maybe?
 
I had to take the Woods off of the bottom of my B, flip it, block the blades with 2x4's, use a 3/4" breaker bar and a 4' long cheater pipe. It worked too.

I see that you don't know about the pins on the ROPS. Pull them, swing it down, put them back in and it would be level. Designed that way...cinder blocks under front, ROPS under rear, creaper underneath...with a 3/4" breaker and a 4' cheater pipe. My B doesn't have a ROPS, so I had to do it the hard way. And when I got them off the first time, I had ordered left rotation but my Woods is right rotation. Ahh, got it corrected eventually.

Mark
 
Sometimes you need to put a wrench on the top side to hold the spindle. A lot of the blade bolts are left handed and will self tighten. Especially in heavy cutting. I've wacked a wrench with a hammer to get the bolts loose. A good impact would probably work as well. It's not as critical as a walk behind mower but you need to try and grind the blades evenly so they are fairly well balanced. You must be a sucker for punishment using cinder blocks and a jackall. LoL Dave
 
If the tractor rolls back you are dead..Cement blocks do crumble and those jacks can drop a load.Why did you post this?
 
I've been told that those cinder blocks can unexpectedly disintegrate, so to be safe, I use a couple of big round rocks for these jobs. A guy just can't be too cautious, ya know.
 
Question is? Why hasn't Allen repied? Dead? embarrassed? April Fool's? This is much akin to MikeCA fire post. What's up Allen?

Gordo
 
Saw car ramps drop a jeep off to one side.Best rig Ive seen was steel ramps the projected over a bank.My dads friend had one years ago.Pits are good if you cover them when not in use.NO CEMENT BLOCKS.8X8 wood blocks are best.
 

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