Any Ideas?

Allan in NE · Jun 6, 2008

I've been fightin' this rascal since I bought the machine new way back in the '70s.

This axle is where the hydro belt drive pulley "idler" rides. Tremendious load and even with constant and continous greasing, the darned thing has worn to the point that it is no longer serviceable. Started noticing the thing was wearing "crooked" the very first year I owned it.

Now after too many years and multiple owners, it is time to either fish or cut bait.

Anyway, it is a "shouldered" pin, which is welded in from the inboard side to this 1/2" boiler-plate. The Hydro also mounts to this big plate and I don't wanna take it off, let alone, buy that complete assembly.

I've got a new pulley, a new bracket arm and think I can get the axle cut out of there okay with a cutting wheel and/or the torch.

Can I buy just that shouldered pin? Or, any other ideas of how I can cure this troublesome jasper?

Allan

Allan in NE · Jun 6, 2008

Or,

Should I just slice that pin shoulder off flush on the inside and drill a large hole thru the old pin?

Don't quite know how to attack this one. :>(

Allan

Uncle Ernie · Jun 6, 2008

Can you get an idler pulley with a bearing in it instead of a bushing? Since you have to replace the stub shaft anyway, size it to match the ID of the bearing.

Uncle Ernie · Jun 6, 2008

You could drill and tap the shaft them use a sholdered bolt to support the bearing.

IaGary · Jun 6, 2008

Allan why couldn't you cut the pin out and weld in a larger diameter pin.

Cut the bushing out of the plate and get the larger bushing stock to go over it and weld it on.

Or if the pin is not bending or wearing to bad just replace the bushing with a longer one if there is room.

Is there a zerk on the bushing? Need one of those also.

Gary

IaGary · Jun 6, 2008

Scratch the zerk idea. I took a second look and see it doesn't pivot.

Gary

Allan in NE · Jun 6, 2008

The pulley itself has a big, double, pressed in bearing. The pulley is then bolted to a arm, which rides on this pin.

The spring-loaded arm and pin maintain the alignment of the attached pulley and it's about gotta be a bushing around a pin setup. The tension spring is a good 4" in diameter and about a foot long. Lotsa pull on that thing.

Allan

glennster · Jun 6, 2008

dont know if you have enough room on the back end of the shaft, but, maybe make another bracket so you can put two flanged bearings, one on the bracket there, then another on the inner home-made bracket, then slide a shaft thru and use locking collars. the extra inner bearing should help with the torque load, and the shaft can slide out easily if you ever need to service it.

Allan in NE · Jun 6, 2008

The bushing and zerk are on the arm. Got a new one and just have to figure out how to replace that "axle" that it rides on.

Allan

IaGary · Jun 6, 2008

Hey you didn't show us all the pieces the first time. Is the pin suppose to extend through the plate an allow that arm bracket to set on the pin also?

Why didn't you say so?LOL

Gary

jose bagge · Jun 6, 2008

Crazy idea: cut the stub off flush and get a junk yard rear hub bearing assembly off a FWD car, something like a geo metro. Drill the arm for the 4 bolts on the backing plate attachement for the hub, and bolt the pulley to the wheel side of the hub. Increases your rigidity and gives you bearings as well.....

Allan in NE · Jun 6, 2008

Hole in the new arm is 7/8" in diameter. The arm runs right up close to that boilerplate.

Do they even make a 7/8" bolt? Maybe chop the old one off flush, then drill and tap the plate for a replacable grade 8 bolt used as the axle?

Allan

Ted in NE · Jun 6, 2008

Allan, how much room is there between the pulley and the bracket on the back side? Could you cut the top part of the bracket off leaveing room to bolt it back on with a heavy plate on the outside after you replace the pin? Just a thought with out seeing it up close.

Bill in IL · Jun 6, 2008

I got the perfect solution to solve all your problems allan. Go to the agco dealer and buy a new A65 combine. Better have lots of custom work lined up to pay it off though.

I think drill out the pin but its going to be hard to get a new one in straight so the idler will track true. Its going to have to be a press fit to get it straight. I am not sure how you can do that with it in the machine.

Can you drill it out and use a bolt with a jam nut on the back side? Is there room for that?

Allan in NE · Jun 6, 2008

Yes,

Think that is the only solution from the looks of things.

If I sold the whole derned farm, it wouldn't even begin to pay for a new combine. :>)

Allan

Nebraska Cowman · Jun 6, 2008

Oh yeah, They make 7/8 bolts. But you don't buy them at Wal-Mart

Tradititonal Farmer · Jun 6, 2008

Get a Titanium bolt they ain't cheap but will stand up where nothing else will.

Bill in IL · Jun 6, 2008

Imagine how boring life would be if you sold the farm or bought a new combine.

When you drill it out. Your going to use a hand drill and the hole will get wallered out but if you can drill through another thick scrap peice the diameter of the pin you need to insert on the drill press so you have a hole that is drilled straight and square, clamp that as a jig to the inside to hold your pin secure and straight while you weld the pin in place and it should end up straight.

Good luck is all I can say that looks about about as much fun as taking a broken bolt out of a block.

Paul from MI · Jun 6, 2008

Looks like there's plenty of room on the back side of the plate. First measure the shoulder diameter and thickness of the pin so you can get a shoulder pin made at your local machine shop with a threaded stub to bolt it into the plate. I'd drill a hole the same size as the one in the plate in a piece of scrap that is thick enough to guide a drill well. Then find a bushing that will slide in the scrap to guide a smaller drill bit. Use a dummy pin to line the scrap up to the plate and clamp in position. Use your bushing to guide a smaller drill so you can drill thru the plate/pin assembly, then larger bit to completely remove the worn shoulder pin from the plate leaving a hole to bolt your newly made shoulder pin into. Might have to clean up some leftover weld on the back side of the plate to get it to tighten up straight. Should be able to set the worn arm up in a milling machine and open up the worn hole to a size that can be bushed to fit your new shoulder pin. Sounds like a lot of machine work, but it really isn't. Hope this helps,
Paul

Johnski · Jun 6, 2008

I think your headed in the right direction by cutting the pin flush on the inside. I would try to get a shoulder bolt 7/8" shoulder with 3/4" threads and drill and tap the bracket for 3/4". A shoulder bolt would probably be grade 8 and give a good finished surface for the arm to ride on. HTH Jf

guido · Jun 6, 2008

Hello Allen.
You can get a grade 8 bolt or stud.
Cummins engines have head bolts that are 5/8"
Guido.

Anonymous-0 · Jun 6, 2008

A harder pin would help with wear. Easy job for an Arc-air torch (gouger). Is it welded on both sides? I'm thinking it's only welded on the outside? If you're good with a cutting torch and don't push the cutting lever all the way you could probably cut most of the old weld out. You could also go buy or rent a die grinder with a ball end carbide burr and grind the weld out. I've seen cheap air die grinders for under $20. They work fine for occasional jobs and are very handy. Electric ones are also available but cost more. Get a good carbide burr though. Make sure to wear a face mask and/or googles when using a die grinder. They throw the shavings everywhere. Dave

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