Interstate batteries

37 chief

Well-known Member
Tried to start my JD 401B today nothing. Battery was dead, would not take a charge. Seams like all I can get out of a Interstate battery is 4 years or
less. Coming to the end of a week of the china virous, can't use the C word it will get flagged for some reason. I had to stand the battery on end,
well balancing on the step and pull it up out of the box. I still don't feel well. Took three tries, nothing was going right, finally got it out. Ever
have one of those days? Stan
 
Make sure your charging system is working right. I have found that the better the electrical system, the longer the battery will last. I don't use a trickle charger.On a few of my old trucks that I only run a few times a year I have a disconnect on the battery.
 
I just recently had a interstate battery I use in my dump trailer go bad I believe it was about ten years old.the wife and I both just got over the other thing you mentioned.
 
2X on a battery disconnect extending battery life on older equipment. Alternators, starters, radios and worn insulation can all introduce a low battery drain as they get old, they can be hard to track down.

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I heard this about batteries from a parts guy. I cannot verify it is true, but it sounds logical to me.

If you have two batteries of the same physical size, the one with the highest AMP capacity will die first. The logic in this is that in order to get higher amps from the same size, they have to put more plates in the same space. In order to get more plates, they have to be thinner, the separators have to be thinner, and the whole assembly squished closer together to fit into the same space. This leaves less room for electrolyte (acid). It also causes the battery to get hotter as it is charged and discharged.

When I need a new battery I do not pay extra for more amps than my equipment specifies. If there is room for it, I will sometimes buy the next larger size, but I no longer chose the highest amp rating of the same size battery. I just buy the amp rating that is specified.

Once more, I cannot verify if this is true, but is does make sense to me.
 
My son has an 8 year old interstate in his
Camery. It measured about 90% of its rated Cranking Amps. Dad, do you have a core battery I can have? Because the battery is 8 years old, he wants to replace the battery. The last thing he wants is to get stranded on the interstate. He plans to give me his old battery to use in a tractor.
 
I've had good service from Interstate batteries. I use battery tenders off-season. It's been proven that a fully-charged battery will last longer.
 
I had not thought of that before, but it absolutely makes sense. If the battery construction is more delicate as you say, it stands to reason that the life would be shorter; many people do not secure the batteries , but let them flop around in the tray. I can see thinner plates failing real easy.
 
Just replaced a 6 volt in her tractor. Cheapy from a local supply store. Told the guy he was going to have to warranty it cause I only got 9 years out of it. We both laughed
 
Have you checked your alternator or generator? If the tractor is not adequately charging the battery, that will shorten life.
 
I've been using INTERSTATE batteries for over 30 years in all my cars, trucks, and tractors and have never had a poor lifespan issue. 8 years or more has been the average. DEKA, EAST PENN/DURACELL are also good brands. Might have an electrical issue root cause problem. If using a 6V system, you need an AG TYPE GRP-1 Battery. If 12V use a GRP-25 or GRP-35 Battery. Do not use Deep Cycle, Golf Cart, or riding mower batteries. Cables and connections make a huge difference. 6V battery cables need to be thick as your thumb. On my FORD Tractors I always use the OEM style flat braided battery strap for the POS GRN terminal. A 12V battery needs the smaller gauge cables like on your car or truck. Battery terminal post connections need to be clean of acid buildup and clamped tight. If unit still uses cells with water, maintain proper level, do not overfill. If you overfill and water runs all over, you will lose precious electrolyte. You just don't replenish with more - it doesn't work that way. Can also test Specific Gravity with a hydrometer or take battery to a trusty, local ALT/GEN shop and they can test it all on their machine. Battery/Power Source is the heart and life blood of every machine. Invest in a good float charger and connect it every time vehicle sets idle/not running. A float charger will maintain the battery at optimum condition so it is ready to go when you are. If vehicle sets for a few days or more it will start to deplete lead cells and electrolyte. The worse thing for battery life is the constant draining of power.

Tim Daley (MI)
 
Like the guys below said, I have master disconnect switches on 2 of my tractors.
Never put them away without shutting them off.
Interstate has been good for me as well as cheaper batteries.
Keeping them charged is a good idea also.
 
I wouldn't take an Interstate battery as a gift. I recommend John Deere OEM. Made by Exide to JD specs. I run them in everything. Trucks, tractors, cars and lawn mower.
 
I bought a 29.00 Viking charger/ maintainer from HF . Its revived three so far and keeps the camper battery up
 
Thats about all I can get out of those long narrow batteries used in my JD 4020s and the 3020. It seems like someone always needs a battery or a battery box.
 

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