Continental y112

I got my old clark c20 lift fired up and running smoothly with the new electronic distribtor. It now cranks easy and idles well. It still has a problem when you try to throttle it up. It sucks a bunch of air and falls on its face. It had this problem before but would ease up once it was up to temp. Changing the timing does not impact this. I am thinking I need to clean up the carburetor. The build sheet lists #667525 . The word Bendl is on the side of the carb. The things I see online show a Zenith carb for that number. My carb looks like the pictures of the Zenith carb.
Any other ideas what else I could check before I take off that carb? It looks like it won't be any fun getting it off
 
Does this engine have a PCV tap in the intake directly
above the carburetor? If so, there is a short hose with a
PCV valve in it, tapped into the tappet cover. If this hose
is cracked it will create a huge air leak.
 
update: I was running my truck again and tried pulling out the choke cable. With the choke cable pulled to about 80% the truck runs like a dream and will take the throttle with no hesitation or coughing. Not sure what this could signal or point to?
 
(quoted from post at 15:10:39 09/25/23) Does this engine have a PCV tap in the intake directly
above the carburetor? If so, there is a short hose with a
PCV valve in it, tapped into the tappet cover. If this hose
is cracked it will create a huge air leak.

No PCV tap on this 69' engine.
 
Daniel, I am new to this forum thing and kind of fumbling around. At first I saw your edit about watching the linkage. Once I went to the overhaul manual link I no longer see the edit you entered about the linkage? Pretty sure I'm doing something wrong on my end. Thanks!
 
Fair enough, I'll re-post everything I said here with the link again:

The problem with it dying when throttling up or when a load's applied is a common problem on those Continentals. The governors get a little loose and 'hyper-active' over time. When this happens, they open up way too far when a load's applied and stall the engine out. To
confirm this is the case, watch the linkage from the governor to the carb when you go to throttle up or apply a load - if this is the problem you'll see it go wide open, even if you just throttled up a little bit.

Adjustment is via a 'surge adjustment screw' at the front of the governor body - sometimes hard to access. You loosen a jam nut then screw the adjusting screw it in a little to tighten things up. Usually half a turn or so is enough. You don't want to go too much at once,
or it won't respond as it should and also have trouble idling.

See this link, page 40 as the pages are numbered at the top of the page (which is page 45 of the PDF). There's also the 'sensitivity adjustment' spring: Usually it doesn't have to be played with, but if something's become misadjusted over time it's worth following the
instructions in the manual on how to adjust it as well.
Continental Flathead Engine Manual
 
(quoted from post at 08:31:16 09/26/23) Fair enough, I'll re-post everything I said here with the link again:

The problem with it dying when throttling up or when a load's applied is a common problem on those Continentals. The governors get a little loose and 'hyper-active' over time. When this happens, they open up way too far when a load's applied and stall the engine out. To
confirm this is the case, watch the linkage from the governor to the carb when you go to throttle up or apply a load - if this is the problem you'll see it go wide open, even if you just throttled up a little bit.

Adjustment is via a 'surge adjustment screw' at the front of the governor body - sometimes hard to access. You loosen a jam nut then screw the adjusting screw it in a little to tighten things up. Usually half a turn or so is enough. You don't want to go too much at once,
or it won't respond as it should and also have trouble idling.

See this link, page 40 as the pages are numbered at the top of the page (which is page 45 of the PDF). There's also the 'sensitivity adjustment' spring: Usually it doesn't have to be played with, but if something's become misadjusted over time it's worth following the
instructions in the manual on how to adjust it as well.
Continental Flathead Engine Manual
Thank you sir! Unfortunately it was not the governor adjustment. I pulled the carb and opened it up. I do not know how it even ran. Never have I seen a carb with this much trash in it. May have never been off this truck since delivered in 69'. All passages are open and cleaned up good. Parts are soaking and kit is on the way.
Once the carb is done I have a transmission line to replace. That looks like the radiator may have to come out to get at the hose.
 
(quoted from post at 06:23:47 09/27/23)
(quoted from post at 08:31:16 09/26/23) Fair enough, I'll re-post everything I said here with the link again:

The problem with it dying when throttling up or when a load's applied is a common problem on those Continentals. The governors get a little loose and 'hyper-active' over time. When this happens, they open up way too far when a load's applied and stall the engine out. To
confirm this is the case, watch the linkage from the governor to the carb when you go to throttle up or apply a load - if this is the problem you'll see it go wide open, even if you just throttled up a little bit.

Adjustment is via a 'surge adjustment screw' at the front of the governor body - sometimes hard to access. You loosen a jam nut then screw the adjusting screw it in a little to tighten things up. Usually half a turn or so is enough. You don't want to go too much at once,
or it won't respond as it should and also have trouble idling.

See this link, page 40 as the pages are numbered at the top of the page (which is page 45 of the PDF). There's also the 'sensitivity adjustment' spring: Usually it doesn't have to be played with, but if something's become misadjusted over time it's worth following the
instructions in the manual on how to adjust it as well.
Continental Flathead Engine Manual
Thank you sir! Unfortunately it was not the governor adjustment. I pulled the carb and opened it up. I do not know how it even ran. Never have I seen a carb with this much trash in it. May have never been off this truck since delivered in 69'. All passages are open and cleaned up good. Parts are soaking and kit is on the way.
Once the carb is done I have a transmission line to replace. That looks like the radiator may have to come out to get at the hose.
On my old Clark 69' C20b I found the air filter canister has oil in the bottom. What flavor of oil goes in the air filter canister? I have never seen this style of oiled air filter setup. What is the function of this type of oiled air filter?
Thanks, Phillip
 

Oil bath air cleaners were pretty common on older equipment. No need to constantly buy new elements, and presumably there was always oil around. Probably was originally spec'd for 30 weight non-detergent oil which you can probably still find if you wanted to look really hard. But it would probably work pretty well with whatever you are putting in the engine. It shouldnt be super thick (no gear oil or straight 50 weight) or it wont catch much dirt.

If you use it a lot where its dusty, check it out often. They can get pretty crusty surprisingly fast. Or you will find water gets in there, and sits on the bottom and rusts out the can.
 

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