I'm going to buy a lottery ticket today.

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member
I removed the spark plug, put about an oz of wd40 in the hole. Replaced the plug.
I sprayed the valve stem between the valve spring with carb cleaner.

The tractor started and a few seconds later the valve was free.

How many lottery tickets will this lucky guy need? Just one?

Notice the wet spot on the concrete. It is proof I have a condensation issue, not antifreeze issue.
cvphoto163651.jpg

I ran the tractor without the valve cover on.
40 psi oil pressure and very little oil coming out the rockers, so changing the oil won't do much good.
cvphoto163652.jpg


I need to come up with a way to pull the moisture out from under the valve cover. Getting the tractor hot will only turn the water into steam. Without a way to pull the steam out what good is warming up the tractor.
Any suggestions how to vent the valve cover? PVC
 

Most old tractors have some type of ventilation to do just that. Usually it's a pipe off the valve cover or crankcase somewhere. It may be plugged.
 
All gasoline engines have a system to relieve pressure and fumes in the crankcase/cylinder head area. This (in old engines) was a road draft tube with a liquid vapor separator at the top of it. This allows combustion gasses, condensation, and oil vapors to be expelled down and out. Some manufacturers used a passive system to draw combustion gasses into the air cleaner (after the cleaners filter so combustion gasses were directed into the intake. The use of Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) was introduced as early as the 1950s but was uncommon until environmental laws required combustion bypass gasses to be burnt. I am sure that the tractor has one of these systems, probably either a road draft type or a Passive air intake device/connection. Jim
 
If the cover iss still off, the oil can be drained from the pan, the filter changed, and the top end rinsed with paint thinner (not lacquer thinner) and a parts cleaning brush, then followed by a quart of cheapest thin engine oil to remove the paint thinner out the pan. Put it back together and fill with new 15-40 diesel grade oil and run it till warm. Jim
 
(reply to post at 12:35:30 09/22/23)
Water vapor got in to some extent due to a vent in valve cover and or on the block. Some is a result of combustion.
If there was no ventilation on the engine pressure would build and blow out a gasket, core plug, etc.
 
I'm betting the vent is plugged or you just don't run it enough to keep the condensation out. They need to run for a few hours each year at operating temperature to keep that out of them and from having sticking parts like that. Use it to mow with this fall since it will not be cold nor hot for a couple months and you will find it is a lot better afterwards each year. Just changing the oil now will do little to nothing for it if you don't go out and run it a few hours this fall more than one afternoon.
 
PCV is good thing., but I'm afraid PVC would melt. I'm doing that to my old Dodge flathead using an early GM valve and some tubing. Just be sure the air you draw in is filtered in some way.
 
Without tear down it will be tough to do without extended periods of operation followed by quick crankcase drain.

Consider a reasonable amount of (once called) dri-gas (alcohol) in crankcase to absorb water into oil for drainage after extended period of operation.

Expected that it would free up as it had not been unoperated long.
 
So is it a design flaw with these old engines not squirting more oil on the head to flush that moisture back into the pan?

Maybe they thought the valve seals were too poor for a bunch of oil flow on top of the head.
 
(quoted from post at 11:57:57 09/22/23)
Most old tractors have some type of ventilation to do just that. Usually it's a pipe off the valve cover or crankcase somewhere. It may be plugged.
he engine vent of his Jubilee is the oil filler cap and it has a filter in it, which I bet Geo is aware of. Separate valve cover/rocker arm vent.

This post was edited by JMOR on 09/22/2023 at 12:06 pm.
 
Yes, George is aware of both fill cap vent and
valve cover vent.

You can see just how good they are not!!

I'm going to connect a 1/2 inch hose to the
valve cover vent and send it back to the carb
intake.

I don't think much of Ford's 70 year old better
idea.
 
No.

Engines were designed to be used at operating temperature for extended periods with proper thermostat in place.

Valves sticking in guides was almost never an issue in the day even with irregular maintenance.
 
Similar to just about any other industrial engine design of the era, when valves sticking in guides was almost never an issue when operated as intended.

Properly functioning thermostat in place?
 
Yours has the vent on the side of the valve cover like this one.
You could indeed add a PCV (stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation).
You will likely need to but a cap over that side vent or block the space where you can see the mesh inside.
Might remove that mesh all together when you have the PCV hooked up.
I think the PCV also needs to be installed vertical?
cvphoto163658.jpg
 
I had an old 1971 duster 6 cylinder. The old engine was shot. It had a lot of blow-by.
I removed the guts from the PVC valve and pulled more air.
I have a cheap PVC valve in the mail from Amazon for under $6. I'll jury rig it vertically, seal off the opening and remove the mesh.

Anything has to be better than Ford' idea of ventilation.
 
(quoted from post at 17:25:31 09/22/23) I had an old 1971 duster 6 cylinder. The old engine was shot. It had a lot of blow-by.
I removed the guts from the PVC valve and pulled more air.
I have a cheap PVC valve in the mail from Amazon for under $6. I'll jury rig it vertically, seal off the opening and remove the mesh.

Anything has to be better than Ford' idea of ventilation.

PCV valve.......
mvphoto110076.jpg



PVC valve......
mvphoto110077.jpg


At least that red handled one is the right color
 
What about YT members who only use their tractors for parades and sit 363 days a year?

I think I have a solution to condensation under the valve covers.

Time will tell if it works.
 

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