sickle bar mower identity

Anyone hazard a guess on make and model of this mower? Just in case it needs parts. 7 foot bar. Appears to have been modified along the way.

Anyone know how the pto shaft attaches to the gear box? Would like to replace the pto shaft but can't disconnect from the gear box. Any tips on making a pitman arm?

Pulled it out of weeds to use it on an old overgrown pasture. Not going to use my Farmall BN though.
Thanks, Michael

Looks like IH mower to me.

One of the IH series - maybe a 25V or 27? All those IH mowers are very common around here, and all wear parts readily available.
25 V Mower Pictures

It is an IHC McCormick 25 V or a 27 V all sickle parts fit.

Make sure your pitman arm is the right length. You can buy them for about $35 at Case dealers - the one near me always keeps a couple in stock. If you don't have one to reference, I'd probably buy one just to make sure you get the dimensions right. If the length is off a bit, it will throw the knife out of register and it won't cut worth a dang. I can't recall how the PTO shaft disconnects, but I did replace the U-joint in one of mine in-place wihtout too much difficulty. Unless yours is damaged/seized, I'd just pounds some grease to it and carry on.

Much of this you probably already know, but some tips on sickle mower use in case this is your first time:

For Maintenance:

- Sections need to be kept in good shape. If yours is a 7', buy a new knife. AI makes aftermarket under-serrated ones that'll fit those IH mowers, and it'll pay you back in spades (any dealer can order AI products).

- Make sure your ball socket is tight, well-lubricated (regularly during use), and has no slop (a little bit of slop/play makes a big difference in how it cuts).

- Make sure your ledgers on your guards are sharp, square, and all level with each other.

- Make sure your hold downs are good - holding the knife nice and close to the ledgers.

- Make sure your knife & bar is registered correctly. This is very often overlooked, and if it's not right it won't cut worth a dang.

- Set the lead on your bar - the far end of the bar should be just a tiny bit ahead of the pitman-end when mounted on the tractor.

- It'll cut best when the guards are set so they're entering level or angling down at the front ever so slightly. I actually run mine tipped back a bit however - a little more chance of it plugging as it's not 'combing' and lifting the hay up, but it glides over bumps and rocks a lot better.

When Using:

- Don't cut through hay that's already cut - it'll plug instantly. You'll get pretty good at lifting the bar right at the end of a run, and dropping it right at the start.

- Sometimes speed helps, sometimes it hurts. Play around and see what works. I can go 8-9 MPH with no issues in good standing hay. Lodged/tangled alfalfa and clover will drop me down to 3-4 MPH with lots of plugging. It bugs me to see all these Youtube videos of folks crawling along at super-slow speeds with a sickle mower when they don't have to - they're just wearing out the mower unnecessarily.

- Keep your lines straight when possible and watch your turns. Often better to lift and loop around to the left and drop back in square rather than make a sharp right. If you make a sharp right, the end of the bar will be travelling very, very slow (possibly even backwards, if you turn sharp enough). Without decent forward momentum, the end of the bar is more likely to plug.

- Down or lodged hay will often be a nightmare, despite your best efforts. Best to cut before it has chance to get knocked down.

- Don't cut when it's damp (even if only very slightly) - wait until all the dew's off.

This made a great puzzle.
I wish i could figure out how to post it like KC does

Ya'll are awesome. Thanks, Michael

What is the difference between a 25V and a 27V?

looks like an international model 27V we used to have. We made our own pitman arm out of oak fashioned from the broken one.