Your painting method

jd2cyl1943

Member
Location
Bemidji, MN
I'm wondering what your painting method is. Do you use epoxy primer, primer sealer, filler primer, high build primer, a mix of all or some? What parts do you use what primer on? I'm planning on using JD brand enamel so any of you with experience with it have any tips on compatible primers, what kind to use, what brand?
 
It depends on the quality of the paint job I'm trying to do. On raw metal, especially if there has been some rust epoxy is the best you can do. Epoxy doesn't sand very good so if there is imperfections in sheetmetal a filler primer is good to use over epoxy to level the surface. A filler primer will sand easily. The primer sealer is good when you are going over existing paint with a different type of paint. It will aid adhesion and help prevent lifting if the new paint has a stronger solvent. If you are going over the existing paint with the same kind of paint you don't need to use primer. You can just clean the paint and scuff sand it and just put the new paint over the old paint.
 

I have a basic rule for painting old tractors. If you are doing just a five hour prep job don't waste your money on good primer or paint. Use dealer implement enamel. If you are going to invest fifty hours in prep use good paint, which would include epoxy primer, primer surfacer, and at least acrylic enamel.

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Once u price out all the different primers and paint , I am
sure u will be using the good old enamel stuff. The very
experienced go with the high priced museum quality
glossy paint jobs. Plus all the safety equipment needed
for painting. Its not for beginners. Plus many painters are
not even interested to do them kind of paint jobs. You can
call this a practice run if u want , but decide if its
feesable for you. There is what used to be called primer
putty, that I put on sand and sand till the surface is like
glass for filling little scratches or imperfections. The
priming was last. Im no expert , but I know a bit , as there
is bodymen on here , so they can give u good advise.
Fancy paint is fancy money, and months of work.
 
couple questions. what is your budget for paint and materials? what type of spray equipment and compressor do you have? third, what is
your experience painting?
 
Most of the time I just use rattle can primer.

On the last couple tractors I painted, I just sprayed the tin and sheet metal parts. The cast iron parts I did with a brush. That way I could do it in stages, and actually stretched out the project over a period of time. Cast iron is pretty forgiving--you could paint it with a broom and it would still look good.

No matter how you do it, you will end up with at least as good of a job, if not better, than the factory put on it.
 
Rattle can primer, whatever I could find at flea markets. Rattle can from the dealers for the paint, for a perfect match.
And practice practive practice the technique doing exACTLY what the can said to do, until I had it perfect.
 
John Deere Buff color primer and their paint is a good combo, be sure to use their thinner or you will have problems .
 

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I painted this 2N Ford with a brush several years ago and was happy with the results, also the old Fordson too, just some paint I had on hand.
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I second the brush method....
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Cheap brushes ( dollar store) rust oleum brand farm and implement paint, a little mineral spirits to thin
 



The local FFA restored this H for my friend. It was shinier than Grandpa's. This picture was after fourteen years. You can see that the paint held up well under the decals. They used alkyd enamel. Acrylic enamel holds up a lot better and compared to 2K urethane or the stuff being used on cars these days it is cheap!


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If rusty, I use rustoleum primer for heavy rust.
You may need to wait for rustoleum to cure before
you can sand it.
I use cheap enamel with hardener.
If you don't clear coat enamel, gas around the
gas tank will react with the enamel.
You have to give enough time between coats and
wait for the enamel to cure before clear coating
or your clear coat will trap gases and bubble
off.
I like to add a little 10% mineral spirits.
It helps paint eliminate orange peel.

It's obvious you have never sprayed painted
anything before. If I were you I wouldn't use
expensive paint materials because you can wait
for all paint smells to go away and sand down
your mistakes.
 
Rustoleum rattle can primer, then some rattle can Rustoleum paint. I'm not doing a show job, just cleaning up the rough parts. It'll be a 10 footer when I'm done, and I will be fine with that.

I did do two long passes with the pressure washer to get as much dirt, oil, grease, gunk off. If an ancillary part like radiator or starter came off, it was painted separately and then installed.
 
(quoted from post at 17:01:56 07/09/23) It depends on the quality of the paint job I'm trying to do. On raw metal, especially if there has been some rust epoxy is the best you can do. Epoxy doesn't sand very good so if there is imperfections in sheetmetal a filler primer is good to use over epoxy to level the surface. A filler primer will sand easily. The primer sealer is good when you are going over existing paint with a different type of paint. It will aid adhesion and help prevent lifting if the new paint has a stronger solvent. If you are going over the existing paint with the same kind of paint you don't need to use primer. You can just clean the paint and scuff sand it and just put the new paint over the old paint.


Please tell how you know what type of paint is there that you are planning to paint over. I find it disappointing when my new paint makes the existing paint lift because it apparently has a stronger solvent and I don't prime over it.
 

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