Ford 4400 - carb rebuilt, replaced plugs, wires, and dis

Heet0006

Member
I have been working on this old ford 4400. It never ran great so I slowly have been slowly chipping away at problems. This week I cleaned out the tank, fuel tap, carb, and replaced the coil, distributor, plugs and wires. Plugs and points were gapped at .025. Timing was sent O TDC and points just opening. Confirmed spark at plugs. Tractor does not want to run and doesnt seem to fire.

I have confirmed the carb is getting gas, plugs have spark, and timing was for cylinder #1 on the compression stroke.

Any troubleshooting tips to start eliminating issues would be great.

Only thing I know wasnt by the book was Napa gave me champion plus that cross referenced to the recommended autolite 405.

Thanks in advance for any help
 
set valve gap.did old plug gaskets come out or plugs snugged up proper?steady flow of 12v to coil?
 
Have confirmed it was cylinder #1(closest to the radiator) on compression stroke by putting my finger in the spark plug hole. Then also confirmed on the fly wheel it was at 0 degrees top dead center.

Maybe it shouldnt be 0 top dead center when the points are opening?
 
Okay just have to clarify. The purpose of sticking you finger in the spark plug hole was to feel compression pressure as the piston came up or were you just feeling the piston was at TDC? You do it for the first reason I stated and then stop on TDC as you keep turning the engine. If this was done pull a couple spark plugs and dump a tablespoon of gas in the hole a screw the plugs back in connect the plug wires and try to start. If it fires there is a problem with your carb. Did you check for gas flow at the bowl drain on the bottom of the carb? Gas has to get inside the carb to get in the engine to run. Float or float needle valve may be stuck in new carb. Is the choke cable adjusted to completely close the choke plate? On the ignition does a test light flash on and off if connected to the distributor lead quickly as the points open and close while the the engine is cranked? I also agree with rwb, since it runs poorly you need to set the valve clearances.
 
Thanks @Used Red MN.

I was checking for compression so I believe it was set setup on the right stroke.

I also confirmed the bowl was full by undoing the bolt at bottom of the bowl and it refilled successfully.

Will try the gas in cylinder tip next.

One variance I have seen is that the ford book says to set the distributor when cylinder is TDC. However YTs spec sheet for Ford 4000 says ignition sparks at 3BDTC. Link included below. I have not tried 3BTDC, that was this evenings goal. Thoughts?

The valve clearance recommendation. Is this a driveway DIY thing or a professional tractor mechanic fix?
Untitled URL Link
 
Should start anywhere within a 10 or 15 degrees either side of TDC. I asked if the choke is fully closing when you pull out the knob? In my estimation if you can change a distributor you should be able to set valves. Watch some how to videos and then decide if it is within your ability. All you need is a set of feeler gauges.
 
TDC is close enough to 3 degrees BTDC for the engine to start and run. Once it runs you can fine tune from there.

If you had the rocker cover off to check the valve rocker clearance, #1 cylinder should have been at TDC when you checked/adjusted those two rockers. Both should have been loose. If they were not, you missed TDC for #1 and all your adjustments on the other valves may be off.

Did things match up with what I gave you for info in your earlier post on this? Was the rotor pointing at where the #1 wire in the distributor cap is? Were the points just opening at that position? Do you have the plug wires in the right firing order around the cap starting at #1 and going the way the rotor turns?

What is your battery voltage when checked at the battery cable on the solenoid when just setting? What is the same voltage when checked while cranking the engine over?

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 06/27/2023 at 04:02 am.
 
My 2000 has a nice hole and a line to use the timing light on right side of engine. I had thought it was 4 degrees before tdc but I know all I had to do was line it up on the little mark. Slick as can be. Im sure they changed on your newer bigger one it was way too easy
 

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