Ford 5000 Turbo

So I picked up this ford 5000 and the bush hog for $800.00. I bought it because I broke the front end bolster on a 5600 with a bucket attachment trying to use it as a bull dozer. The woman I bought it from said her husband bought it six years ago for $5000.00 and used it very little and it had been sitting for over 2 years since he passed away. She said he was always "fiddling" with it and he was not much a mechanic. All of the filters on it were painted blue and she said he did not paint the tractor. So me being me I had to try and get it running instead of scrapping it. Anyway, it has a turbo on it which I am not familiar with and it is a select o speed which I didn't even know existed. I will ask question in another post about that.

So my question in this post is about the turbo. I took it apart and cleaned it up and welded a metal band on the exhaust stack where it was broken. I think the seal is bad in the turbo and it leaks oil on the outside. So will it leak oil back into the valves causing it not to run right and make it hard to start? Can I take the turbo off, change the exhaust manifold, plug the oil ports and change the breather tube back to it's original configuration? Is there anything else? I was told that the pistons may be different and the injectors and I would need to change those if I took the turbo off. Is that possible? If I get this tuned up I am going to try and sell it and then buy a bolster. I downloaded the repair manual on the turbo, the service manual for the tractor and the parts manual. I know parts for the Turbo may be hard or impossible to find.











This post was edited by cdavis71 on 06/18/2023 at 08:39 am.

You could try an injection/turbo shop to see if they can repair the turbo but I wouldn't hold out much hope on that. The short
answer is yes, you can remove the turbo and replumb. That turbo was just an aftermarket add on and nothing internally would have
been changed unless the engine was rebuilt at some point. I'd probably tighten the fuel screw down half a turn or so or until it
doesn't smoke like a locomotive. I have a 5000 with the M&W and it was turned a WAY up... probably close to 85 hp from the little
233.
Have a look at the turbine in that first tho... If it tight on the bearing (no wobble) a seal may fix the turbo. It gives the 5000
a nice little bit of pep as long as you don't lug it like a 90 hp tractor.

Rod

ray jay turbo on a m&w set up...

Turbo rules you must follow!!!!

The oil inlet must be at the very TOP..

The oil OUTLET MUST BE AT THE VERY BOTTOM..

you can take the bolts out of the halfs of the turbo,and turn, or clock the turbo so that the oil ports are correctly orientated. If they are not, the turbo will get oil into the exhaust and intake sides... and it will use a boat load of oil..... so this is a MUST!!!!... also the return line is bad about getting clogged up with sludge due to poor quality oils being used. Take the return line off and make sure its completely clean and no restrictions.

And if the turbo bearings a shot, a turbo shop may not be able to find parts for it. The turbo setup gives the tractor 20% more power over the factory setting as a rule. My m&w set up did smoke just a bit from the turbo seals being worn. The seals are basically metal washers on either side of the bearings. I may still have a couple of m&w oil filters for the turbo in the garage???? as I ramble on about it.

Thanks for weighing in. I often wondered despite the claims how well a 5000 would hold up maxed out at 90 plus hp under continual heavy load.

If you decide not to use the turbo system I would be interested in it and all of the plumbing

Isn't a Ford 7000 a 5000 with a turbo ?

7000 has different rod and pistons, different valves, engine oil cooler, different transmission gears and additional brake disc

Sort of... The 7000 had a heavier transmission. It also had a hardened crankshaft, heavier cooled pistons/bushings and different valves.

I wouldn't work the snot out of my 5000, but it has a good burst of power in it for intermediate use. I bought it like this, for I think 1200 bucks, turned up to who knows what. I just know it makes BLACK smoke under load, will easily run hot, and running down the road with a load it will out gun my TS90.. by quite a bit. No idea how many hours are on it or if it's ever been opened... but knowing where it came from I'd say more than likely it's never been touched.

Rod

I may take you up on that. I took it off today and it run ok until after all the smoke cleared. It started running a little rough at full
throttle so I will clean the injectors next and check out the injection pump. I still need to get the tube that runs from the intake manifold
to the air cleaner.

A 5000 for $800? That's an amazing deal. I would just take the turbo off - it might be easier to sell that way

I ve got the intake pipe you need, won t need it if we work a deal on the turbo setup