Wiring for a 40 ish Minneapolis Moline

jdfamily

Member
Hey guys, I need some wiring for a 40's Minneapolis Moline UT tractor.
I need to replace the coil wire and spark plug wires. Any idea where
I can get those? I tried a couple auto parts stores and nothing.
Maybe I will need to make them?
thanks.

This is the tractor i mentioned before, new points, condensor, rotor
cap spark plugs, resistor etc. still no spark to plugs.
Gayle
 


I will say you shouldn't expect to find custom (pre-made engine specific) wire sets for tractors. A parts store should be able to get a 4 cylinder universal spark plug wire set for a tractor or industrial engine. Generally the plug end boots and terminals are already installed on the wires. You cut them to length and install the distributor end boots and terminals.

Have you checked to see that you have power to the coil? What tests have you done to diagnose the problem? Changing parts isn't diagnosing anything.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 06/16/2023 at 02:55 pm.
 
Thanks for the suggestions.
We have tested voltage, resistance, starter draw, etc. just cannot get spark to the plugs
 
(quoted from post at 18:09:10 06/16/23) Thanks for the suggestions.
We have tested voltage, resistance, starter draw, etc. just cannot get spark to the plugs

I looked back and found your other post about this. Some fellows posted some info and asked questions about just what and where you were checking. I do not see any response from you to that. You have to follow up to those questions and give folks answers to their questions and suggestions. Otherwise how will people know if the problem is solved or not? Also we know if we are interpreting/naming things the same as you and give other ideas of what to check/try.

Here is a link to you earlier post on this.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?p=11031249&highlight=#11031249

if you ground your test light and put the probe on the primary terminal of the coil which has the wire going to the distributor, what does the light do as you crank the engine over? It should flash off and on. Did you clean the contacts of the points with a piece of uncoated paper or even a dollar bill after you installed them?
 
You are saying distribuator, Are you sure it is actually a Distributator and not a Mag? Big difference and for that age I would think mag. Dont remember what my 44 U had but I was too young to know the difference. Mag and distributor will sometimes look very much alike. But Are not.
 
1. Have you tried a known-good coil on it?

I am guessing you have confirmed that you have 12v. from the battery at the ignition coil.

Is the insulator where the small wire from the coil to the distribuitor shorting out? (p.s., if the insulator where the wire attaches to the distribuitor is homemade or patched with slilcone that can be the problem. The silicone can actually carry a current to ground)

If the points are closed you can work them with a screwdriver and just test of the high tension lead from the coil. This eliminates any problems that may come from old bad wires or a shorted rotor or cap.

A temporary coil or plug wire can be made from any stiff wire as long as it stays about 1 inch from anything it could short to. It can even be bare as long as a spark can't jump to ground. There was an old tractor at shows around here that had barbed wire for plug wires at shows around here in NC about 30 years ago.
 
Do you have spark from the coil while cranking? Put a known good wire in the coil tower connection that would go to the center tower of the distributor cap. Instead of connecting it to the center tower of the distributor cap, hold it 3/8 from a known good ground (not the battery post), and crank the engine. If you have spark there, should be 2 sparks per engine revolution on a 4 cylinder, you would have a distributor cap/rotor problem. That test tests the switch, wiring, points coil etc. If no spark, you have a problem other than cap and rotor and will have to trouble shoot the primary ignition system.
 

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