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Kawasaki 22 horse with bent push rods on one cylinder

A

andy r

Member
My Cub Cadet zero turn mower lost power. Engine is a Kawasaki FR651V twin cylinder 22 horsepower. Cleaned the carburetor, new fuel filter, new air cleaner, and new spark plugs with no improvement. This engine model has problems with coils, so I put a new coil on the dead cylinder with no improvement. Engine would not start with the other cylinder's spark plug wire removed. Switched the coils around with no change. Left cylinder always dead. Pulled the valve cover off on the dead cylinder side and a push rod feel out. Push rod was bent. Not a wonder it fell out of the rocker arm. Upon further examination the other push rod was bent as well. I attached a picture of the bent push rods. I guess this engine is known for excessive valve/rocker arm clearance. I subpose the excessive clearance let the push rod fall out or it was hammered into its bent shape. Anyone experience bent push rods on the Kawasaki engines? I really can't see how you would adjust the valve clearance. Any ideas appreciated. Thank you.
cvphoto156356.jpg
 
Engine was likely shut down HOT & those valves stuck. When you tried to start it the pushrods bent before the valves would move, VERY common on the air-cooled OPE engines I use Mobil1 synthetic & haven't had such an issue in all those years, I've had very great success with it, of course, others will say it's the worst thing you could do to an engine. YAMMV!
 
I had a Kawasaki in a John Deere zero turn. Couldn't keep push rods in it. Got enough experience I could tear it down and put it back together in a half hour. After two years I traded it off. Even though I know my experience was different than most, I don't want another Kawasaki. p.s. The mower was near new when I got it and was well cared for, never abused except for the abusive language aimed its direction several times.

This post was edited by ADB-Ia on 06/11/2023 at 07:21 pm.
 
The problem isn't because it's a kawasaki. I've seen this on briggs, Hondas and other valve trouble on kohlers. The engine was overheated and causes excess carbon on the valve stem causing the valves to hang up when shut down. The next start bends push rods. Improper cleaning of cooling system, rodent nest on cylinder head, non synthetic oil, poor oil change intervals all contribute.
 
Mine would do it in the middle of mowing, just suddenly loose power, not at startup. One time the valve guides had migrated, other times there was no explanation. Had it to the dealer several times. Changed them myself several times. Always well maintained. John Deere torque guard oil. I've mowed lawns for 60+ years and this is the only one that's treated me this way. Like I said, no more Kawasaki for me.
 
I have a zero-turn mower with a Kawasaki FX801V. Part of the maintenance schedule is to take it into the dealer at 250 hours and have the valves adjusted. I have had several Kawasaki engines and have never had a problem with them. I follow the maintenance schedule to the T. However I change the oil in half the time it's recommended. How many hours are on your engine?
 
I have a jd that the valves stick and do yesterday all the time. We just spray brake clean on the valves and push them in and out till all the gum is gone and it runs fine for 1/2 year again. Straighten the push rod and stick it back together. Been doing that for 4-5 years on this one already. Still going.
 
I have a similar Kaw in a Hustler ZTR. On its fifth season with no problems so far. It has always had Mobil one oil since new. Changed every 50 hours.

That was recommended by the dealer, along with blowing clippings and dust off the engine after every use.
 
Its been a number of years now, but when I was working at the Deere dealership, valve train issues were common on the air cooled mowers. The root cause was overheating. Some of the engines were so plugged up it was surprising there was more than a blob of aluminum left.
 
Like the others said, at some point both valves seized in their guides. If you propose to use that cylinder head, be certain those valves move freely or else you will have two new pushrods just like those.

You also need to determine why it got so hot. I suggest taking the fan cover off and see if trash is plugging the cooling fins.

Be sure the rocker stands are tight on the head. Sometimes their bolt works loose and the pushrod just plain falls out.

Valve adjustment is .004-.006 for both intake and exhaust. It takes two 10mm wrenches. The way I do it: Loosen the nut and turn the bolt whichever direction adds more clearance. The bolt is offset so it works like a cam. Then turn the bolt in the opposite direction checking with a feeler gauge for the correct clearance. Tighten the nut and re-check the clearance. It may take several tries. (You usually get it close before you start pulling your hair out.)
 
(quoted from post at 11:04:56 06/13/23)
I drought it was because of Kawasaki. Neighbor has a John Deere with one and it ran for years.
Click to expand...
Make sure fins are clean by pulling flywheel cover off.
Then use some Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil.
We see this alot in the spring.
olf20 / Bob
Servicing outdoor power equipment for 33 years.
 
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