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My MF 65 quits after 30 minutes

M

mf farmer mt

New User
I have a Massey Ferguson 65, it runs and starts great but after about 30 minutes runs out of spark and dies. I have a newer series 65 battery, internally resisted coil and new voltage regulator. There's 12.6 colts going into the coil and 9.5 colts coming out. Am I missing something. The generator spins very nice on a bench test. Carb is rebuilt as well. Needing some help on this please
 
I didn't check for that. It's brand new though it only cost $20 from Steiner. It did the same before with an unresisted coil. I thought an internally resisted coil would be better than having the external resistor which was missing beforehand. How would I check that?
 
Pull the coil wire from the cap with engine cold and hold wire 3/8 inch away from the engine, crank engine and see if you have a bright blueish spark. Now run engine
until it dies and check again, I'll bet spark is week/yellowish or not at all. MF 35, 50, 65, and 85 models never used a separate ballast resistor like some other engines
did. Make sure the point gap is right too.
 
(quoted from post at 15:59:29 06/01/23) Pull the coil wire from the cap with engine cold and hold wire 3/8 inch away from the engine, crank engine and see if you have a bright blueish spark. Now run engine
until it dies and check again, I'll bet spark is week/yellowish or not at all. MF 35, 50, 65, and 85 models never used a separate ballast resistor like some other engines
did. Make sure the point gap is right too.
Click to expand...
I'll try that first thing tomorrow, this tractor did have one when I first got it. It runs really strong for about 30 minutes. Then it just keeps getting weaker then dies
 
The coil is (if it says no external resistor needed) not equipped withan internal resistor. it is just made to operate at 12+ volts. it can still fail, and if it is hot so you would be burnt if you put your hand on it, replace it. Jim
 
it doesn't get hot enough to burn my hand, it is mounted right above the starter, would the heat from the engine affect it? Or would it be my generator failing?
 
also the coil is brand new, and it originally had an external resistor. I'm running a series 65 12 volt battery with a 700cca. There's 12.6 bolts going into the coil and 9.6 coming out. Not sure if my generator is warming up and quitting producing though either
 
If the coil has 12.6 on the input it should have either 12.6 (points open) or near nothing on the distributor side. (points closed)
any oyher reading is wrong. The 9.6 reading is bogus. Possibly a bad condenser, or dirty points. Jim
 
(quoted from post at 19:39:59 06/01/23) If the coil has 12.6 on the input it should have either 12.6 (points open) or near nothing on the distributor side. (points closed)
any oyher reading is wrong. The 9.6 reading is bogus. Possibly a bad condenser, or dirty points. Jim
Click to expand...
thank you. I did change the condenser and was running it till my manure spreader broke the table chain a hundred yards from starting. But it was still starting to act the same. I'll find out more tomorrow.
 
When it dies does it sputter then ..catch.. meaning
come back to normal? Then repeat sputter then catch
or is it just like the key was turned off? Sputter and
catch can also be lack of proper fuel delivery. To run
that tractor under full load you need 5 gallon and hour
per the test made on it. That requires the carb drain to
supply 2 pints in 3 minutes. Test it by getting
something to catch the gas. Open the drain on the
bottom of the carb and do not measure the 1st 8
seconds or so of flow. That drains off the fuel in the
carb bowl. Then start the timer and catching the gas. If
the fuel flow slows from a small steady stream to just a
slow dribble you know your gas flow could very well be
the problem. Just keep in mind there may be a fine
screen in the fitting that screws in the carb where the
fuel line attaches. Also crud may be in the bottom of
the tank plugging the outlet to the sediment bowl. Use
a good flashlight to look in there to see what may be
down in there.
 
(quoted from post at 23:37:32 06/01/23) When it dies does it sputter then ..catch.. meaning
come back to normal? Then repeat sputter then catch
or is it just like the key was turned off? Sputter and
catch can also be lack of proper fuel delivery. To run
that tractor under full load you need 5 gallon and hour
per the test made on it. That requires the carb drain to
supply 2 pints in 3 minutes. Test it by getting
something to catch the gas. Open the drain on the
bottom of the carb and do not measure the 1st 8
seconds or so of flow. That drains off the fuel in the
carb bowl. Then start the timer and catching the gas. If
the fuel flow slows from a small steady stream to just a
slow dribble you know your gas flow could very well be
the problem. Just keep in mind there may be a fine
screen in the fitting that screws in the carb where the
fuel line attaches. Also crud may be in the bottom of
the tank plugging the outlet to the sediment bowl. Use
a good flashlight to look in there to see what may be
down in there.
Click to expand...
I've rebuilt the carb and installed a sediment bowl, the tank is fairly clean. I have plenty of fuel flow.
 
(quoted from post at 13:44:50 06/01/23) Did you check the coil for a nice blue spark when it dies hot? Bad coils will die when hot, and start up fine again after cooling off.
Click to expand...
So I checked the spark, it looked good. The coil is new, I changed out the points and set the gap and couldn't get spark with the new points. Put the old points back in and set the gap to .022 and still the same thing. Now the battery is dead, again. I'm starting to think it's the generator. Should I switch to the the alternator on it
 
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