Radiator leak; weld or JB weld?

Folks got a leak at top of radiator where inlet neck is welded to top of radiator (I think, can only see general area while looking upside down and it s under pressure). Took radiator off to check it but can t replicate leak without pressure. Radiator is only few years old. Believe it might be from inlet neck sits real
Close to gas tank and maybe from bumping/bouncing around bent it causing weld to fail/crack? Anyway is this something JB Weld can fix or gotta go find a radiator shop for welding?

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Find the leak for certain, don't guess where it is. If you don't want to gather some hoses, plugs, fittings and an air regulator capable of adjusting to 10 to 12 psi max, so you can pressure test it, take it to a radiator shop and have it done right. JMHO
 
Yes. I m already googling "how to" DIY pressure test a radiator in event can t find a radiator guy close by. Seems it s getting harder and harder to find old school radiator repair shops now a days.
 
(quoted from post at 05:13:44 05/29/23) Yes. I m already googling "how to" DIY pressure test a radiator in event can t find a radiator guy close by. Seems it s getting harder and harder to find old school radiator repair shops now a days.
I've had a JB weld repair on the top tank of my IH Loadstar radiator for a few years now. Its not hundred percent but better than nothing. I still have plans to solder it for a permanent fix.
 
Solder would be the appropriate way to repair that kind of problem. If you're not skilled in that area, you should take it to someone who is.
 
Harbor freight sells a decent kit of filler neck adapters
and a hand pump for pressurizing radiators. Rubber
sewer pipe cap work well for the hose connections.



I find a soldering iron works best on radiators. A torch
spreads too much heat around and you end up melting
solder that you didnt intend to. Ive got a couple big
soldering coppers that I use, found at antique shops.



Also I usually end up removing the offending part
completely in order to clean the joint and resolver the
whole thing.



Last resistor I worked on had a leak between the top tank
and core. Had it to a shop twice, they just skimmed over
the top of the cracked solder. Didnt hold more than a
couple weeks. I ended up taking the tank completely off
and resold wrong. Has held for several years now.
 
I repaired a cracked block on a W30 almost 30 years ago and its still holding. I also fixed a small leak in the radiator that has held up. Its a non pressurized system but it is a quick and easy fix. Soldering
is the correct way to fix a radiator but sometimes you have to decide on fixing it right or just getting it to work.
 
Found a place about 45 min away that friends "think" is still in operation. Will have to wait until tomorrow to find out. If not guess I m learning how to solder or JB Weld Here we come. Will hit up parts store for freeze plugs and pressure test kit to find/confirm actual leak.
 
Titanium puffy is way better than in weld. I used it to
make new bearing holders for the front kink pins in a
5250 case front assist. Holds very well
 
if the radiator is out of the tractor i use a bicycle innertube, like on the balloon tire bikes. cut the tube across from the valve stem. then hose
clamp the ends of the tube to the radiator, put the rad cap on and inflate the tube. use soapy water and check for leaks.
 
The neck is SOLDERED in place and the cracked area can be cleaned up and resoldered.

Slopping it up with puckey is a temporary fix at best and will make it that much harder to clean up and repair properly at a later date.

If you are not experienced in soldering, a radiator is not the best place to learn.

On the other hand, there's lots of Youtube vids on soldering, even soldering on radiators.

What people don't always realize is that radiator tanks flex with pressure and temperature changes and it takes a good strong repair not to just quickly crack/fail again, and puckey isn't a good/strong repair..

This post was edited by wore out on 05/29/2023 at 09:10 am.
 
You're getting there, Clean it till all there is is bright solder and brass radiator, no black stuff. Smear a light coat of soldering paste around that joint, and very carefully heat a spot on the joint until you can flow solder into it. Keep your pool moving around the neck, but don't get it too hot. Flame on, flame off to control your molten pool. A little more solder buildup at the joint will add a bit of strength too, so don't be stingy with the solder. If the solder spreads away from the joint, leaving a crack, go in there with a pick and get the black oxides out of the seam.
 
We bought a 560 in in 1977 and the rad neck leaked at the tank joint. We cleaned it and put JB
on it and when I sold the tractor in 2004 it was still holding.
 
I own all sorts of welding/brazing/soldering equipment and what works best for me is an old
school solderi9ng iron at least big as my thumb and 50-50 solder. The problem with using a torch
is copper transfers heat real well and can melt nearby solder.
 

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