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IH 684 Brakes not bleeding

R

rhomium

Member
I recently changed the parking brake band in my '83 684. After reassembly I have all my hydraulics working except the brakes. When trying to bleed them for the last two days, no oil or air comes out the bleed screws. Today I took the supply hose off the cooler line to see if I have good oil flow coming from the oil cooler to the reservoir and I do. After doing that I finally have some oil coming out the left brake bleed screw but it's a drip. I have a hose going from the bleed screw to the hyd. oil fill and when I step on the left brake pedal, I can see oil moves back and forth. The right side I still can't get any oil or air out the bleed screw.

Any ideas on what might be the problem? The brakes worked fine before I tore things apart to change the brake band.
 
There is an automatic way to bleed
them but I can't remember the
procedure. What we do on those model
tractors is have 1 person pump up
and hold the brake pedal down, even
if it goes to the floorboard, while
an assistant takes a 7/16 wrench and
loosen the bleeder screw to release
any air.Tighten the bleeder up after
last signs of any fruitful bleeding
happening. Keep repeating until
there is a good pedal available for
brakes.
 
I'll have to try it that way later this afternoon when I have some help. I was trying the procedure that is in the book of blocking off the return hose to the tranny, opening the bleed screws and letting oil pump through which wasn't working.
 
I just crack them loose then hold a finger over the bleeder between pedal up and pedal down. The pedal will push the oil out by my finger without harm and then seal air out till the next push. When no air comes out I start using the bleeder tighten and loosen to finish up.
 
Did you have the top cover off the transmission? Did you replace the o rings where the bleeder ports go to
the top cover? Or maybe the port is obstructed with dirt or debris? Mark.
 
I did have the top cover off, and I did replace the o-rings. I hope the port isn't obstructed, I really don't want to take that off again at the moment.
 
Well, the other way to tell if the port was obstructed would be to take the axles off and remove and check
from the brake 'chamber'. But what I would try next is remove the brake line or loosen it, at the side of
the transmission housing and pump the brakes to see if you have pressure there. Also, when bleeding the
brakes, while running the engine at 1500rpm, you should pinch off the line from the master cylinders that
returns excess fluid to the top of the transmission. But if your master cylinders are staying full, you
usually don't have to. I had some that where real slow to bleed after replacing brake seals, so it may
take a while. Good luck, Mark.
 
Made some progress this afternoon. I cracked each brake line as it went into the housing and pumped the brakes. Each side had oil come leaking out when the brakes were pumped. Then bled them manually from the bleed screw, having someone pump the pedal a few times and then hold it to the bottom and crack the bleed screw. Left side didn't have any air come out, still kind of slow with the amount of oil coming out of the bleed screw. Right side was much better. That side you could hear the air squeezing out and then eventually got oil to come out that side. So now I have some brakes, if you push them all the way to the floor you can get the tractor to stop.

I'll try doing some more bleeding tomorrow.
 
I have also seen instances where it
bled out easier if the tractor had
been ran enough to warm up the
hytran fluid.
 
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