IH 1086 wrung into bolt

crsutton81

Member

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Got a bolt that attaches the top alternator bracket to the tractor that has wrung into. We've tried the trick of welding washers and nuts to the small remaining portion to turn it out with no luck. Also tried taking a drememel tool with a drill bit to drill it out with no luck. There's not enough room to get a regular drill in position. I think the bolt is a grade 8 as everything around it is marked grade 8 also. Any suggestions that doesn't require pulling the radiator and cast iron surrounding to get it out ? I'm afraid there will be more twisted off bolts in the cast iron dealing with it this way.
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You need to take a 1/2 inch nut, put it on the top of the brocken bolt and do a plug weld with a stick welder. Weld until the nut is yellow. Put a wrench on it one minute after cooling.

This post was edited by fdt860 on 05/22/2023 at 01:44 pm.
 
Sometime u just got to make room for the job youre doing. Thats a pretty straight forward job. Drill a hole in it and use an easy out. No sense doing the torch thing unless u have experience doing that , and if u did u would have done it already. Could try heating the outside up. But u have nothing left to use a chizel on.
 
Square it off on the rear surface and center punch it (or diamond point Dremel) and use a tungsten drill (in 2 sizes) to take it out from the back side. Jim
 
Wrung in two. not wrung into. Meaning twisted off, broken off, etc.

It must be a southern term. I hear it a lot here in NC.

P.S. Although I know what he means, I don't know if 'wrung' it a real word or not.
 
Hopefully you have or can access a 4 inch angle grinder. There is a lip on the front of the ear where the machined area on the front surface is. When I say ear I mean the part of the casting that sticks up that the bolt is stuck in. I would suggest you grind that square. This is for the purpose of pounding on the cast ear and the grinding will help avoid the cast edge from chipping away. The purpose of the pounding or maybe a better term for it is ..wrap.. to loosen the bond between the bolt and the cast. In a very minute way it will expand the hole the bolt is in. To explain more you are going to pound at it pretending the cast part around the bolt is a rubber hose. The blows are going to repeatedly, microscopically for just a microsecond egg shape the bolt hole around the bolt. Use a hammer about the size of a carpenters finish hammer which I believe is 16oz. Tap on it with a swing equal to that required to drive a dry wall nail in a 2x4 or a 4 penny box nail. Which has a shank a bit bigger than a pencil lead. This type of technique and practices are all based on blacksmithing. After the pounding you need to try the washer and nut again. Right after the welding tap on the casting again using a stubby punch with a least a 5/16 diameter contact surface with the cast. I do agree with wore out, before spending a lot of time on it I would blow it out with a cutting torch.
It is funny how different folks use different terms to describe something. The word ..wrung.. does mean ..to twist.. His subject line would have been easier to understand if it would have said ..IH 1086 bolt wrung in two..
 
It is funny how different folks use different terms to describe something. The word ..wrung.. does mean ..to twist.. His subject line would have been easier to understand if it would have said ..IH 1086 bolt wrung in two..


............. "twisted off" would be a bit easier to envision what was going on here.
 
(quoted from post at 19:43:29 05/22/23) Hopefully you have or can access a 4 inch angle grinder. There is a lip on the front of the ear where the machined area on the front surface is. When I say ear I mean the part of the casting that sticks up that the bolt is stuck in. I would suggest you grind that square. This is for the purpose of pounding on the cast ear and the grinding will help avoid the cast edge from chipping away. The purpose of the pounding or maybe a better term for it is ..wrap.. to loosen the bond between the bolt and the cast. In a very minute way it will expand the hole the bolt is in. To explain more you are going to pound at it pretending the cast part around the bolt is a rubber hose. The blows are going to repeatedly, microscopically for just a microsecond egg shape the bolt hole around the bolt. Use a hammer about the size of a carpenters finish hammer which I believe is 16oz. Tap on it with a swing equal to that required to drive a dry wall nail in a 2x4 or a 4 penny box nail. Which has a shank a bit bigger than a pencil lead. This type of technique and practices are all based on blacksmithing. After the pounding you need to try the washer and nut again. Right after the welding tap on the casting again using a stubby punch with a least a 5/16 diameter contact surface with the cast. I do agree with wore out, before spending a lot of time on it I would blow it out with a cutting torch.
It is funny how different folks use different terms to describe something. The word ..wrung.. does mean ..to twist.. His subject line would have been easier to understand if it would have said ..IH 1086 bolt wrung in two..


Speaking of different terms I think that you mean rap instead of wrap, as in to rap on a door, instead of gift wrapping.
 
Of course (wrung) is a real word! When Mama was washing the laundry in the old days she wrung the water out before hanging them on the line. She wrung the water out of the mop too. Might be a southern thing since I've always heard it and always lived here.
 
IF you can get a drill in there, drilling a pilot hole about 3/16 will make more heat available to the rest of the threads if you try the welding trick again. It will also provide space for the bolt to contract after the weld is completed.
 
(quoted from post at 04:22:37 05/23/23) Of course (wrung) is a real word! When Mama was washing the laundry in the old days she wrung the water out before hanging them on the line. She wrung the water out of the mop too. Might be a southern thing since I've always heard it and always lived here.

Of course it is, but I don't think anyone here except maybe the OP has seen it used in relation to a twisted off bolt.

Nobody has "wrung" anything since the widespread adoption of the modern clothes washer and dryer.

BTW machinists' gauge blocks can be "wrung together." That is they are polished to such a high degree that if you place them together and give them about a 90 degree twist they will stick together as if they are glued.
 
another option altho a little on the spendy side if you can get in there with a 90 degree drill adapter (harbor freight has them for about 20 dollars) use a drill bit for boron steel. we use them at the body shop for drilling spot welds out of boron steel panels. they will go right thru a grade 8 bolt. they are spendy. here is a link
drill bit
 

First weld a extra thick washer, with center hole a bit smaller diameter then the bolt. Weld it on extra hot.
Then weld an oversized hex nut to the washer, inside and out to the washer.
As it cools introduce pb blaster or similar as soon as it no longer burns the pb away.
For extra measure, run an ait chisel against it for a minute.
Then try to turn it off.
 

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