1953 Jubilee dies every 5-10 minutes, not overheating

kjevans · May 17, 2023

Hi,

I'm trying to cut hay with our 1953 Jubilee, and it's been working well for a few years now. This season, however, it is dying every 5-10 minutes, as if it
ran out of gas, but it did not. It is not overheating. If I wait 5-10 minutes, it will start up and run another 5-10 minutes and then die again. I'm
cutting hay and it's very slow going. Any experience with something like this? Any suggestions? I've checked all the obvious things associated with fuel
and carburetor and nothing seems to help.

Thanks,
Kelly

Rich'sToys · May 17, 2023

Sometimes a bad coil will run fine cold, but then start acting up once it's warmed up. I had one do that once.

grandpa Love · May 17, 2023

Swap the coil. They get hot and die, cool off and run

Geo-TH,In · May 17, 2023

I had that happen to my Jubilee.
I had a vapor lock inside the inline gas filter.
Some say they could get by with an Inline filter, I couldn't.
It could be the screen in the brass 90 that connects the gas line to the carb is choked.

My vapor lock occurs when the gasoline temp reaches 145 degrees.
I used a clear filter and you could see gasoline was replaced with air.

The heat from the radiator blows directly on the gas tank and the gas tank is about the muffler.

I used aluminum coil stock to stop the hot air from getting to the gas tank. Same with the muffler.

On 95 degree days, I could hear the gas boiling inside the tank.

unc · May 17, 2023

Check the condenser as well as the coil. unc

wore out · May 17, 2023

BEFORE you start blindly swapping parts get an in-line spark tester and watch it as the tractor begins to die.

Obviously, if spark is lost as it falters and coasts to a stop you have an ignition problem.

If spark continues as it coasts to a stop you have a fuel problem.

If an ignition problem, 5 - 10 minutes of running is a short time for a coil issue, typically, but anything is POSSIBLE.

It could point to a failing ignition switch or a condenser that has gone ''thermal''.

Connect a test light to the ignition switch side of the coil and observe if it remains lit as the engine stalls, if it stays lit that should rule out an ignition switch problem.

A few things you can try, and let us know what you find.

showcrop · May 17, 2023

What did you check that tells you that it is getting enough gas?

Geo-TH,In · May 17, 2023

When it dies, remove the drain plug on the bottom of the carb bowl and see how much gas comes out.
That will tell if you are running out of gas..

INCase · May 17, 2023

I would 2nd that its likely a gas issue or at least the 1st place to start.

Its probably getting gas but not fast enough. it may be filling the carb and then after a bit of use the carb bowl is running out. then if it sits a few minutes the carb fills back up and runs again?

i suspect it probably idles ok??

tomturkey · May 17, 2023

make sure you check inside the tank for floating debris, or maybe a dead floating spider that gets sucked over the inlet then floats away once the tractor dies and suction is gone. I know that this is an obvious thing but thought I'd mention it. gobble

560Dennis · May 17, 2023

Loosen up your gas cap ,the vent isnt working . See if that does it .

moresmoke · May 17, 2023

Fuel tank vent.

rrlund · May 17, 2023

I'll bet it has an inline gas filter doesn't it? If so, it's vapor locking.

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP · May 18, 2023

Listen to Wore Out. Most likely a fuel issue. First, assuming you have opened the SEDIMENT BULB Valve 2 Turns? A Fuel Flow Test is in order first but wait til engine cools down for safety reasons, burns and fires mainly. If fuel blockage is not found, then you can move on to electrical but I'd bet too you'll find the problem is in the fuel system. When engine quits do the spark test right then. I'd say it ain't your coil or condenser as others said. These are common guesses, not based on any logical problem solving methods. How do you test a condenser? Got a special test device? Coil can be bad, yes, so ask yourself if you've ever left the key ON with engine off. Yes? Could have done internal damage if points were closed and only displays when it gets hot. All signs point to a fuel issue so until these possible root cause issues are resolved, leave electrical alone. As mentioned too, an added external in-line fuel filter often is trouble and in my opinion is not needed.

Tim Daley (MI)

Texasmark · May 18, 2023

On what you said about vapor locking, I had a 1971 Chevy 400 cu in station wagon years ago. I didn't like the little puke filter at the input to the Quadrajet carb so I put a large volume, but none the less fuel filter. between the gas tank and fuel pump...didn't want to cut the steel fuel like between the pump and carb..

Coming home from vacation that year, pulling my boat and all the kids and camping gear, 2 ish o'clock in the summer afternoon, hot day, pavement hot, etc. It quit. and I pulled off the road. Took 30 minutes to cool down and make another 20 miles before returning.....needless to say, the wifie wasn't the least bit happy about that.....well I wasn't either but you know the story about when mommie isn't happy the house isn't happy.

WilBury · May 19, 2023

If it seems to run out of fuel repeatedly like that, x2 on the tank vent. Last thing "pros" will check.

HFJ · May 19, 2023

yes, try it with your gas cap loose. if it's the tank vent, that will cure it, and you can just get a vented cap.

how much gas is in the tank when it does this? these symptoms can also be a result of a plugged reserve pickup, which causes this when you get down to about the last inch of gas. been there done that. after the replacement also plugged immediately (my tank is rusty), i switched to a different design and it hasn't happened since.

my 2N came with an inline filter, no doubt because of that rust. it is always mostly full of air. it has never been an issue.

1953 Jubilee dies every 5-10 minutes, not overheating

kjevans

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Rich'sToys

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grandpa Love

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unc

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