Carburetor advice

grandpa Love · May 16, 2023

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redforlife · May 16, 2023

Is this somebody else's post you copied and pasted from somewhere else (another site)?

To be honest, the pictures are a bit blurry from being copied and pasted. A couple of the tags I can't really even read, and blowing them up just worsens the blurriness.

If this really isn't just some sort of joke you re-posted from somewhere else, (as in using a Ford carb on an A), it's always best to go back with a factory original carb. Even when replacing an aftermarket one. Just my opinion. If this is for real.

grandpa Love · May 16, 2023

My post off a Facebook group.... No joke. I can swap stuff ( choke and throttle connection) to make one work. I want to know what the difference in these carbs are? Internals?

crsutton81 · May 16, 2023

GL, I'm not up on carb model numbers, but every one that I have rebuilt on a Wisconsin VH4D and for a Farmall SA, 100, 140, have the same internals in them. The main external differences were as you said the throttle and choke linkage connections.

grandpa Love · May 17, 2023

Thank you.

Ozlander · May 17, 2023

(quoted from post at 20:21:14 05/16/23) GL, I'm not up on carb model numbers, but every one that I have rebuilt on a Wisconsin VH4D and for a Farmall SA, 100, 140, have the same internals in them. The main external differences were as you said the throttle and choke linkage connections.

And the distance between mounting holes.

IndyFarmBoy · May 17, 2023

Only Zenith I ever messed with is on a MF 135 perkie, had to modify it to make it run right. But that said, it runs great now. It was a Zenith 267 (sub model 13338)

Carburetor advice

grandpa Love

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redforlife

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grandpa Love

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crsutton81

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grandpa Love

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Ozlander

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IndyFarmBoy

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