Anyone have any secrets to starting water melon seedling

Im putting in 2 acres of seedless and seeded watermelons this year and Ive been having a hard time getting them to stay alive. I bought a heating mat and planted 4 varieties each in 50 plug trays. 200 seedlings in total, that I planted Saturday the 27th. They were up sprouted in 3 days. They seemed to grow really tall and fall over. I had them in a window with good light and its just been to cold in ohio this past week to put them out, today they were out all day but didnt seem to help the tall ones very much. Will good sunlight save the ones that havent fallen over and can i fertilize them in the trays to make them strong.
 
I don't start seedlings and transplant them, I make hills about 6 to 10 feet apart, work in compost and fertilizer, and put in 6 to 7 seeds per hill. Usually get between 4 and six plants per hill. I will plant sometime between Memorial Day and July 4th in Central Virginia. Generally, get watermelons sometime in August to early September, and keep getting watermelons up until frost in late October/early November.
 
Around here we run lots of fans with tomato seedlings to keep them strong. If we dont the get tall and fall over
 
If they grow really tall then fall over I would suspect that they're not getting enough light. When seeded directly in the garden they don't grow tall - they grow out. Sounds to me that they're stretching for light until they get too weak to stay upright. Melons require full sun all day and a window may not suffice.
 
Yes the triploid watermelon seed is tricky to germinate and get a strong plant. I have received some good tips from the seed supplier and have had much better results. Here is what they say.

Have potting soil premoistened and let it warm up to greenhouse temp. Just wet enough so it will not have to be watered until the seeds start emerging.

Plant seeds about an inch deep so they will not dry out.

Place on a heat mat at nearly 90 degrees for 48 to 72 hours and no more.

cover with plastic to retain moisture

keep out of direct sun so as not to overheat and dry out.

after the 60 hours remove from heat into direct sun in greenhouse and water only as necessary without using cold water

expose seedlings to outside wind and sun as conditions allow

give soluble fertilizer a couple times to get them to the size needed so they will pull from the tray..98 count tray will pull better than 50 or 72

Good luck!
 
I think you will find that watermelon like a deep pot as their roots grow farther down than many plants. Your starter pots might be too shallow.
 
Most of the old school farmers her would direct seed their melons in the ground on May 1 or soon after. I hope to get my first ones planted today. They do not like cool weather. I also have some transplants to put in the field that were greenouse raised. When cool the cucumber beetles and fleabugs attack them, and we have to spray for them.
 
Nothing beats outside in natural sunlight of course but we don't all have that luxury and starting early is necessary. The term 'Etiolation' (see link below) explains the science behind it. It can happen even under grow lights inside as well. Tomatoes are very susceptible as are things like cucumbers, etc. And your melons of course. You mentioned 'in the windows with good light' .... if you have newer windows with the argon gas in the sealed unit, this can have quite an effect as a lot of the wavelengths are filtered out. I've always been amazed at how garden-sown early cucumber seedlings hardly have any stems at all, the first big seed leaves that show up literally hug the ground
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I would direct see in hills after the middle of may here in Ohio, Same as musk melons or pumpkins.
 

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