Turbo older tractor

hey, im planning on putting a turbo on an International 574 1973 but i have a few questions regarding the oiling system to the turbo, im wondering where i should hook up the oil feed line from the engine, ive
seen some videos where there is a plug on the side of the block and they hook it up directly to that but i wanna make sure it has pressure and if it disturbs the oil going in that passage around the engine so
it doesn't run dry. My second question is where should i route the oil drain line, ive also seen some videos where they drill and tap a hole on the side of the valve cover but im not sure if that is correct,
wont it be alot of excessive oil that has to go back to the oil pan? or should i route it to the oil pan or close enough so it drains directly down in the oil pan?
after all i want to keep this engine running for many years

any help will be appreciated
Thanks.

IF you want to keep it running for many years forget the turbo. Buy a bigger tractor if you want more horse. Find an 856 if you want more they are about 100 HP.

we just got this tractor and plan on keeping this maybe forever because we dont need any bigger and better + we definitly dont have the money for a bigger one
i dont have a problem rebuilding the engine if it need to be done in the near future i just want to get this turbo on for now.
thanks.

With respect and not flame. First!! turboing an engine that was not factory turbo ready or equipped will not meet your last sentence requirements. Unless you are willing to put up with a very modest increase in HP, you will not be happy. Asking the question about oil starvation in the oil gallery is an indication that you intend to do this from purchased parts, not a Kit. Without turbo experience that alone is a risk.
If you are making a pulling tractor, then a desire to last a long time also doesn't work. If you need more field power, trading for a larger tractor is probably less expensive across the spectrum.

yes i will be using purchased parts not a kit. and im willing to put up with the consequences that comes with this
i wont be going crazy with adding fuel to it and boosting fairly low numbers
im still waiting for answers and to start putting together this
so for now ignore everything else and give me answers to my questions and all will be happy.

Here's another thought, if the engine has the stock Bosch VA hydraulic governed injection pump that MAY NOT have the extra fuel delivery needed at full load for a turbo to work correctly. I've seen some of those pumps that BARELY make the stock full load fuel setting after several hour use, and there's little to no parts for those pumps anymore besides gasket/seal kits. All depends on how much PTO HP you're looking for, might be better off trading for a larger tractor to begin with.

I had a Massey on the Dyno a while back that ha been turboed. It gained a whopping 5 HP. Owner was very disappointed.

I'm of no help about the turbo installation, but we had and still have numerous 74 and 84 series tractors since new and are used for heavy field work. For starters, the cooling system is very modest on these tractors. I'm not sure if it would handle much more than factory specs without an issue. Another thought that crossed my mind is will the clutch even handle it ? It falls in the same category as the cooling system. These are just my opinion and observations from a lifetime of running these tractors. I wish you good luck.

Did IH offer that type of engine with a turbocharger? If not a turbocharger kit might be hard to find. Have you found one?

go to youtube and search for Tassie Tinker, Deere 2020 engine rebuild. Guy added a turbo using off the shelf parts and some pretty good fabrication skills, turned out to be a pretty nice job, although no idea how much power he gained.

Yea ya can mickey mouse one on and watch all the U TUBE EXPERTS . I have no idea what your thinking you are going to gain by this . It's UTILITY tractor , like said before Limited COOLING limited clutch capacity with now much wiggle room and not to even get into transmission and rear end . How much gain by adding a turbo to me on that engine not enough to waist the money nor the time . A slight bump up of fuel will give a better result as she maybe a wee bit low on that BUT before i would even go there i would run it on the dyno to see where it is at and do a major tune up FIRST . Now where would i dump return oil i would dump into the timing cover and before i even started i would get a guide line on HOT running oil pressure to see what i had BEFORE then after to see if i had a reduction in oil pressure . . The next down side is WILL this cause head bolt stretching and head gskt. failure . The old TD 8 E dozers ran the about same engine with a turbo , BUT Turboed engines Run lower compression ratio , the head chambers have a different flow along with oil cooler jets that spray oil onto the bottom of the pistons off the main bearing saddles . You state you do not have the money to go a larger tractor and if this is the case YOU may find you don't have the money to repair what you screwed up . Now i am by no means and expert on the T D 8 E as i do not work on yellow iron it give me HIVES and causes more consumption of Al-KI-HOL . BUT i w2ould dig into the changes on that engine as to what you have in a AG tractor and the difference in Hp. gain . The T D 8 E's i have ran never impressed me at all .

With no adjustment to the maximum fuel delivery, what he did was use up some of the fuel that used to be going up in smoke out of the exhaust pipe.

So he got a little more power and less smoke. With probably very little loss of engine life.

Thinking back to my days in the tractor shop, I remember a representative from M&W commenting that The Ford 5000, was one of the few tractors that actually had enough main bearings, strong enough crank, transmission, and rear end, to handle the full output of one of their turbos. We could crank about 85 HP out of a 68 HP tractor. But the operator needed to keep an eye on the temperature.

You can pull the oil from that side port on most tractors. I don't know about yours specifically, but that's where the case engine oil galley is and that's where I pulled it from on that small Kabota I turbo'd this winter. Make sure the return line is double the size of the feed line so there is no back pressure on the turbo. You may have to put a restriction in the feed line as well as turbos don't need as much oil as you think. I had to find out about the restrictor after my first turbo was ruined on the little kabota.

Just a couple random thoughts... I would not drain into the valve cover because the hot water in the head will not help cool the oil nor will the hot oil do anything to cool the water. Most mfr. run it down to the pan or into the block above the pan, where it can be cooled by the return oil from the oil cooler. Second, I would tap the main gallery as close to the oil pump as possible, with as large a feed line as possible, for maximum oil flow. This is the only way that the turbo gets any cooling. If you are stingy with the oil, the bearing on the turbine end will cook the oil into carbon and cause more problems. Third, prime the installed turbo until there is no question that the bearings are flooded with oil before starting. Picture to give idea of oil flow requirements on a 400 cu. in. Ford.

Also need to consider is that a added turbo amounts to, more or less, a huge internal leak; is a non-turbo oil pump in that engine going to have sufficient volume for the rest of the engine?

My understanding is you need oil return line to point downwards and enter oil pan at least above oil level in pan. Don't have return line level or going up hill. That is what you want in a automotive install anyway.

All I'm going to say further on this is you have gotten some very good advice ob this and Having had a 574 since new in the early 70's you are not going to make enough to matter in the HP department and will probably cause more problems than it will solve. With the money you spend on this and the trade of the tractor watching you could pick up something bigger to do the job without anymore lay out of cash than the extras you spend on a turbo addition. And if it goes south right away you will be in a bigger hole than you are now. We also have a 674 which is the same tractor with a about 3-5 horse more on the same engine.

If you do this include pyrometer. Do not rely on temp gauge to control exhaust temps. I tried this on an 8700 Ford. Melted number 3 piston 5 hrs after install. No pyrometer installed on advice of dealer/installer. Exhaust gases got very hot and took out oil seals in turbo causing raw oil to be sucked into piston.