Cat 2 Implement to Cat 1 Tractor

LarryBud

Member
I have a Ford 3600 which has Cat 1 pin balls in the arms.

I bought a 7' mower which has Cat 2 Pins / Top link. I'm only mowing weeds for a year or two while a pollinator field gets up and growing so I feel good about the size match up.

I also have a Harbor Freight Cat 1 to cat 2 Quick Hitch on it now but this can stay or go. While the QH takes Cat 2 pins, it's only set for the 28" cat 1 width.

I'm looking at the easiest way to convert the mower.

If I reverse one pin to the inside I'd get my 28" cat 1 spread but I'd need to rig up the top link to accommodate the offset. With this set up the PTO shaft will be offset by 6-10". Does this pose a problem or are the u-joints made for this angle?

I could swap out the Cat 2 Pins with Cat 1 Pins but I'm not sure the arms will open that wide. I guess I could put the Cat 1 Pins on the inside.

Any thoughts on this scenario? I'm sure I'm not the first to take this on.
 

There may be a way to have both Cat 1 and Cat 2 connections on the mower at the same time, many are built that way. Telling what "mower" you have and some pictures will help get more accurate suggestions.
 
You dont mention the mower brand/model. Do you have
an owners manual for it? If not, you can perhaps find one
on line. Many manufacturers offer manuals for even non-
current models on their website. Most every manual will
provide guidance on how to set up for Cat 1 & Cat 2.
 

I have a Rhino SE7. Here is the only Pic I have a handy ( from the auction sale ). I know it's not ideal.

It does have a second set of holes below the ones in use but I think I'd have to remove the Cat 2 Pins due to the bolt blocking use of the lower holes.

mvphoto104640.jpg
 
Without a picture, I'm having a hard time picturing how moving one pin to the inside would cause a 6-10 offset if it was centered to begin with. Just a thought, our 4610 at work had interchangeable balls on the 3 point arms. Maybe you could find a used set?
 

Closer pictures and measurements would help. i would look at putting Cat 1 pins, (pointed in) in the other holes with the nuts out below the Cat 2 pins.
 
Sorry, didn't realize this was your picture. I don't see why moving one pin to the inside would
cause more than a couple inch offset, which shouldn't hurt a thing.
 
Here's a pic of the Cat 1/Cat 2 pins on my Woods HBL84-2 rear blade, which may be useful for you. It also has two sets of toplink holes to accommodate the different category hitches.

The only problem I have with my blade is I can't lift it as high as I would like. But it raises high enough to be usable.

You'll want to use sway bars on that heavy mower. Which will probably limit how wide you can spread your hitch arms.

cvphoto152356.jpg
 
If I understand your problem correctly, why can't you just replace the Cat 2 pins with Cat 1 pins? They make both with the same size shank and the same length. I've had to do that several times over the years.
 
Hey Larry... I would use the contact us feature on the RhinoAg website, and ask that question. A while back they helped me get a
manual for an older mower, and seemed very helpful.
 
If this is a Cat 2 mower, this tells me
that it is a heavier duty mower than a Cat
1. If not, the only difference would be the
mounting pins, but that's not my point.

So, ... in my opinion the Cat 2 mower would
be worth more money than a Cat 1 simply
because of its heavier duty part. So why
not re-sell the Cat 2 mower, and buy a Cat
1 mower for less money and cheaper??? You
would be fixing your problem, and putting a
little extra cash in your pocket at the
same time. Wouldn't that make more sense??
Rather than spending more money (buying
pins) and still not having things right.

You don't need a heavier duty Cat 2 mower
if only mowing weeds. Especially if you
don't let them get very tall.

Probably not the answer your wanting to
hear. But it's what I would do.
 
Can you not change out the lift arm balls on the 3600. Most are factory equipped... to pop out the cat I and install a cat II.

or

Secondly... use a cat I pin but a longer one. Get a couple of cat I to cat II sleeves and cut them in half, and put one on each side of the lift arm... to make the cat I pin into a cat II pin where it goes through the implement mounting holes. I do this quite often.. but on the top link holes where one end it cat I and the other end is cat II where needed for the particular situation. Note that top link sleeves are a different size than bottom link pins, so you need to have both in your tool box. So.. buy several, and cut some in half, as needed.

Lift Arm Bushing, 1-1/8 x 7/8 x 1-3/4
Item #106048

Conversion Bushing for Toplink Category 1 and 2
Item #106101
 
That was the question I was going to ask, why not just change the link balls to category 2. All 3600's came with interchangeable balls from the factory as far as I am aware, at leaste they did here in England while I was selling them.
 

Normally a 7 ft mower is used behind a larger tractor like a 4000, but the SE series mower is a bit lighter than the heavy duty models

Just replace the cat 2 pins with a set of cat 1 and your good to go
Your 3000 may be a little light on the front

Heavier implements need cat 3 pins but some can be either way
We have a couple bale spears that are same brand and size, one has cat 1 and the other cat 2
I can swap balls to use the cat 1 on my tractors or my brother can hook the cat 1 spear to his 3400 that is cat 1 only
 
Gotta agree, it seems pretty straight forward to just replace the cat 2 pins with cat 1 pins and be done with it.
 
With your ford,it is also much better to hook up with the pins installed on the inside.

Other solution is to cut th tractor lower arms and put cat2 weldable ball ends made for lower arms.
 
A Ford 3600 should be more than capable to handle Cat 2 balls in the lift arms. I would swap out the lift arm balls and use the cat 2 pins on the mower.

Given enough time, if you swap the mower to cat 1 pins they will bend.

I welded Cat 2 balls into all our ford tractors and we just keep bushings in the tool box for any implement with cat 1 pins.
 
(quoted from post at 13:00:43 04/14/23) All the more reason to just have a pull behind and junk that 3pt stuff.

I went to a lot of trouble converting my pull type to 3PH a few years ago. If you have small areas. with lots of obstructions, the 3 PH style is way more maneuverable. JMHO
 
(quoted from post at 12:17:34 04/14/23) Gotta agree, it seems pretty straight forward to just replace the cat 2 pins with cat 1 pins and be done with it.

This is what I did. Once I took the Cat 2 pins out and got a good look at the 3 point frame, it was made to use either Cat 1 or Cat 2 hardware.

Cost me $30 and 30 minutes to change out all three pins. Hope they can handle the job ahead which is light mowing of weeds.
 

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