7000 JD planter, where do I begin?

I have inherited a 7000 no till 6 row corn planter with a liquid fertilizer system. This planter has been sitting in a barn for roughly 5 years without being used.
Where should I begin with this unit? Id like to use it for 30 corn and beans but feeling a bit overwhelmed with what all it might need. Whats I guess the first areas to be checking for wear and failure?

Begin with the corn meter units. They can be taken to a JD or Kinze dealer to be tested and the technician in the shop can advise on any parts they may need. Bean cups or bean meters? Check all drive chains for stiffness. If heavily rusted then replace. Bearings rusty? Then replace. The back 3/8 drive shaft should turn fairly easily with use of medium length (8-10 inch) 9/16 wrench. If not replace chains and/or bearings. Fertilizer and seed disks should have good contact and turn easily by hand. If disks are wore that the two mated disks turn hard or do not make contact then replace. Heavily checked or cracked fertilizer squeeze pump hose or distribution hoses should be replaced. Metal tube running in back of fertilizer disk openers readily allow liquid to pass. If not then replace. Tires hold 29 PSI pressure and not serious cracked? Hydraulic cylinder and hoses do not leak. When raising and lowering do markers readily drop and alternate Right left over and over again? If not probably sticky mechanism inside main box tube. Does monitor readily read seed when dropping through tube below meters? In a perfect world you would not need a monitor but this world is far from perfect. Especially after dark. I'm sure somebody else will catch something that I have missed.

Check parallel linkage bushings for wear. Worn bushings will make row units pull with back end riding up. An easy clue is do the row units look even from side to side or do some hang lower than others?

Main clutch dogs should have true 'z' pattern so they stay engaged. When raised the clutch should full disengage the dogs. There are two keys that can shear so that jackshaft does not turn when lowered. Check this by lowering planter and pulling ahead. This should be done after all the other previous points of inspection have been done. Drive chains from wheels to jackshaft loose and turn readily? Plastic bushings run true and not chewed up? With wheels free to turn by hand they turn freely and without squeaking? If not disassemble and diagnose reason then replace parts then lubricate. Make sure planter is fully raised before backing up or shaft key will shear.

take down all the numbers and get the correct manual.

What 986 says is definitely sound advice however, I was making a living farming 400 acres and needed my planter reliably planting 400 acres 100 percent. Sounds like you are going to hobby plant 30 acres. If you are going to use the liquid fert yes I would replace the hoses. Everything else I would just grease and squirt oil on and go out and plant.

Things that concern me. The planter is new to the OP. The planter has sat for 5 years and who knows what bugs it had when parked. A poorly functioning tillage tool allows a come back to fix a field with minimal embarrassment. The mistakes left by a poorly functioning planter are there for all to see most likely until next spring. I've always had to do things above grease and lube to get any of my planters ready for spring and there is always the gauge wheel bearing that seems fine during the checkover but flops off after the first round. Last year a seed tube broke on one unit leaving seed obviously on top of the ground. Beginner's luck for the OP?

1. The corn meters, as mentioned. I would expect they need a rebuild.

2. Grease everything else that moves, chains might need to be replaced. Rusty jerky chains mess up the planting timing making things jerky.

3. If you want to use the liquid nitrogen setup, I think that might need a lot of going through after sitting 5 years. A lot of the metal gets funky if not cleaned up perfectly, a lot of the plastic gets brittle if sitting that long. There are different setups and pump types, but I would think it needs a major go through whatever it is.

4. Most 7000 6 row use a center clutch with a rock shaft lifting on all 4 wheels with one cylinder in the center of the planter. These have that clutch that wears down and the jaws can slip past each other making skips and jumps as you plant. Not so good. Replacing it isnt a big deal but you have to pull apart a lot of stuff as you work the drive shaft out. At which point you might want to be putting new bearings and sprockets and such back on as you reassemble. However you said its a notill, which you might mean it has individual cylinders on each wheel. I think these are set up a little different, so who knows.

5. The wear items of the opener blades, scrapers, seed tubes, etc need to be checked. The depth gauge wheels need to be spaced so they are firm but not binding to the opener blades. Any mud at all and you will find this very important. The shaft they pivot on likes to wear. There are several aftermarket fixes for this.

6. Over time the pivot points on the parallel arms wear. This allows the row unit to pivot back and forth (up and down) several inches, which does not let the openers, seed tube, and closers be lined up perfect for a great planting seedbed. You can buy new parts or save some money buy pivot bushings and spend a lot of time and cuss words reaming out and installing the bushings. 8 per row!

If you are planting 30 acres, some of those bottom of the list you can get by for a year, but something to observe. If you want to plant a few 100 acres you probably want most of this stuff fit and right.

Get on the Shoup website and get their catalog, they will be your friend. Usually cheaper, faster, in stock, and as good or better than from the planter maker.

I think the others covered this so Im just repeating, they did good for you.

Paul

ask around see if any locals use or used a planter like it. they might be persuaded to look n go over it with you prolly costing a good dinner n gas money