Midway

Member
Not a mechanic so I will ask you all. My MF 135 diesel has blow by and has for a few years now. l only put about 25 hrs. a year on it for the garden and
weed cutting. It runs and starts well and pulls a 2 bottom plow good. How much damage is this doing to the tractor. I had this tractor about 15 years and
it has been a great tractor. I know it needs work but thought I would ask for your thoughts. Thanks.
 
Long as it starts/runs OK, keep an eye on the oil level and run it. When it gets really bad it won't start like it does now. All engines have some blow by, and some engines have much more than others.
 
(quoted from post at 15:39:40 04/08/23)

Change the oil more often because of the added ''soot'' and combustion byproducts entering the crankcase from the ''blowby''.
 
keep the oil level full and just keep using it till she wont run any more. its not like your doing a 12 hr day in the field with it. the damage will be done if you run it out of oil. using a thicker oil such as 15-40 as that what u should be using in a diesel so presume u are doing that.
 
Vlave lash or the lack of can make some blowby if they are not kept adjusted. IF they are set then keep the oil up and air filter clean and run it.
 
To the OP you make no mention of it using oil, that and lack of power you say is good, also if it becomes hard to start are reasons to address a worn out engine or one with a lot of blow-by. The hard to start problem usually is more of a problem with a diesel engine than a gas. Keep oil in it as long as it does not knock run it. Those Perkins engines are tough.
Catguy, give me a little run down or your explanation of how the valve lash can cause blow-by, never heard of that. A turbocharged engine might force air between the valve stem and guide if they are very worn out, but this is not a turbo engine.
 
lack of valve lash causes burnt valves, plus engine missing and loss of power. blow by is cylinder wear, worn rings , worn sleeves, and worn or cracked or broken pistons. even an extra worn exhaust guide i dont thing would be a cause of excess blowby. the valves seating in the seat is what cools the valve face to prevent burning. plus a good seating valve.
 
A MF 135 is the absolute cheapest diesel there is to rebuild. The master overhaul kit for these are dirt cheap. We just did one. I have one in the shop now for a head gasket. Easy to work on. Run it or rebuild it. It's your choice.
 
Before I overhauled it, I had a JD 4020 with a goodly amount of blowby.....the overhaul had to do with the cylinder weep holes leaking either coolant or oil....seems that the last overhauler, a prior owner either didn't pay attention to color and position of the cylinder Orings upon removal or whatever in that he got them reversed and were incompatible with the adjacent fluid.

Back to the story: I drilled and tapped a 1/2 NPT port in the intake manifold and plumbed in a length of garden hose from the crankcase vent pipe.....no more stink in the operator's station.

Two things come to mind on your usage: Sludge and rust. If the oil isn't circulated and heated to keep solids in suspension and thin enough to get to tight toleranced surfaces expect problems and newly changed oil looking like old oil.

If you don't heat the tractor to drive out accumulated moisture, expect rust and moisture contamination of lubricated surfaces.

Even here in N. Tx. I run all my engines up to temperature for awhile every couple of moths if not used on a regular basis.
 

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