No Start 2N

Hello, Im 13 years old and have a large interest in auntuice tractors. I purchased a Ford 2n last June. I have used it for some small farm projects but nothing to crazy.

My tractor would start up on second crank with no choke when I first got it. Then I started having to use choke to get it to start. How or what can I do to change that back?

My new issue is that the tractor will not start. It has fuel hence it floods and I checked that there was fuel flowing to the carb via the carb drain bolt. I took the plugs from two cylinders out grounded and craked the tractor, and got no spark. I reachearched a stiner tractor recommended using a light tester on the coil. The tester light up with I toughed the post on the coil and flashed when I cranked it over. Still no spark.

Any Recomandations?
Thanks.

Hello ..Clapped.. welcome to YT! Now use your test
light on the other terminal of the coil. See if the test
light flashes on and off while the engine is cranked
with the starter, get a helper if needed to operate the
starter. When the small round contacts of the contact
points in the distributor are making a proper contact
when the engine is turned so they are on the low part
of the cam in the distributor they should ground out
that side of the coil causing the test light to go out.
When the bump on the distributor cam turns to a point
they are pushed open the light will come on again. If it
stays lit it means the points have degraded to where
they are not functioning properly and will probably
need replaced. The tractor was originally a 6 volt
electrical system, has the tractor converted to 12
volts? A six volt battery would have 3 caps on top to
check the electrolyte level. If it is 12 volts it sounds like
you have run it about the right amount of time that a 6
volt running on 12 volts would ..clap out.. the points. If
it does not have one and it has a 6 volt coil you need a
proper resistor to lower the voltage to the ignition coil.
More on that later.

Welcome aboard, young man! You can start by getting the ESSENTIAL MANUALS for your tractor. Best money spent for your tractor. Read them and don't start pulling parts off
and buying anything new yet. there is much to know and learn about first. You need to know if you are set up for the original 6V/POS GRN electrical system or has someone
switched it out to 12V. There are right and wrong ways to do these. Don't start probing things with a VOM or test light without knowing what and where do probe - you
could short out something. Next is to verify the battery is good and the system is wired correctly. Pull battery and take to a shop to be tested on their machine. While
it is out start going thru the wiring system, disconnect lights. Lights were optional accessories and many were wired wrong. My email is open if you want to contact me
and we can discuss in more detail.


Tim Daley(MI)

What other terminal on the coil? There is only one on a front mount coil. I would advise to leave the VOM and test light off until he reads the manuals and knows what and where he should be probing.



TPD

I am glad that you are staying away from crazy work with your N! What tells you that it is flooding? Most likely it is not getting adequate gas.

I can only assume and someone will correct me but I
think that tractor has points and I have been told they
need cleaning often. I have used light sand paper on
engine points with good success. Because you needed to
chock to get it running and now no spark that is my guess
and just a guess.

Yes, That is what I mean my the terminal. When I probed the terminal with a test light it has a faint light with the key on. When I crank the tractor the test light flashes with means that the points are working. Correct?

Thanks.

My tractor is an original 6- Volt system.

I'm here to learn so if doing this is wrong please let me know. The battery has lost some charge so I jumped it using a 12v jumper. Would 12v even for a short period fry the coil or burn the points?



Thanks.

Yes, all FORD Distributors used breaker points. The Front Mount unit must be removed from the engine and tuned up on your bench. Timing is set per manual. DIST must be mounted on engine one way. Get it off and it busts the aluminum base the second power is applied. Don't use an abrasive substance to dress points like sandpaper or a point file. Take a piece of of plain brown paper grocery bag, dab some mineral spirits on it, then pull between point contacts while spinning the rotor by hand. Do a few times then take a piece of dry paper and repeat to clean off spirits. When done, dab some Cam Grease on rubbing block and arm pivot. Don't have any Mineral Spirits? Got any charcoal lighter fluid or paint thinner handy? It's the same stuff. Should do this PM once a year. Note all points are not created equal. Only a few brands are good today. Most Cheena made ones are junk; they can't be set right. Best brand is STANDARD IGNITION/BLUE STREAK with the phenolic rubbing block. P/N is FD-6769X, NAPA should stock them. TISCO is good too but have the plastic rubbing block. The kit, p/n ATK6FF includes the condenser, a small tube of cam grease and a reusable .015 feeler gage to set point gap with. CNH p/n 87744524 is also good.





The Coil on the front mount has one terminal contact on top and the bottom has a pigtail spring that makes the electrical connection. If it gets skewed off as shown in picture, failure to launch is the result.


If Distributor gets forced down and mounted 180 DEG off, at first power up it will bust the base and render it junk. Why? The camshaft head has an offset female slot on it and the distributor Cam & Weights has an offset male tang and they must mate up correctly when assembled.






Tim Daley(MI)

Good advice Tim. This site sells Blue Streak points, Napa could not get them and the other automotive store in my town did not either. joe

You're doing fine. Take your time. Learn how to do things right by reading manuals and from a few experienced members here. There may be some unintentional incorrect
statements made so best to read and then sort out the good from bad. Don't assume that your system is wired correctly for the 6V/POS GRN system just because the
battery is 6V. Get the battery tested first at your local GEN/ALT shop. The 9N & 2N tractors are a bit different than the later 8N and up Models. ALL 9N & 2N's used
the same basic system. They all had a 3-forward/1-Reverse SPD trans, DRAFT CONTROL only, and steering boxes changed a few times. The electrical system was the same
with after s/n 12500 consisting of: Front Mount Distributor; a 1-Wire/3-Brush GENERATOR that used the Round-Can Cutout Circuit; a 1-Wire Starter Motor with NO Relay
(Solenoid); the Ballast Resistor; a 30/30 AMMETER; Ignition Key Switch; a Neutral Safety Start Pushbutton; and a 6V GRP1 battery. It's important to know what the
Ballast Resistor is and what the Cutout is. They are NOT the same and have totally different functions. This is an often made mistake by rookies and some oldies too.
Like I said you can email me anytime.



FORD 9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR:

FORD 9N-10505-B CUTOUT:


Tim Daley(MI)

This is why I love this site. always someone who can explain the right way and reason to do it that way. I never go very many days reading on here without learning something I never knew before. Problem is I can't always remember it when I need to LOL

NAPA CAN stock them, just too lazy. Many stock the ECHLIN ones, p/n CS-35, but they USED to be good (with the phenolic rubbing block) but 6-7 years ago switched suppliers to Cheena and now are junk too. I shop on fleabay for NOS sets and average cost is about $16 but I've seen them as high as $80 by some bad sellers.


TPD

Yep, understood. I quit drinking coffee a few weeks ago. I've quit a few times B4 so not a big deal. So I'm not always awake when I post sometimes...can't remember everything anymore either.

TPD

Im NOT a Ford man but will offer a few THEORY based tips.

A test light on the coils INPUT (from ignition switch) side should show voltage anytime the key is
on......

A test light on the coils OUTPUT (which goes to the points) as the engine is cranked over slowly and key
ON SHOULD FLASH ON (when points open) AND OFF WHEN CLOSED. Its not gonna fire unless that is happening

With tractor setting not running (dont leave key on very long) with key ON most often the points are
closed (only open at a pistons TDC) so a test light on coils output (IE points) is usually OFF

If you put 12 volts on a 6 volt coil very long it could burn the coil (*&^%$#

Burned corroded pitted points are often the cause of no fire CHECK THEM FIRST

This is theory (but hope it helps) now do what the Ford experts tell you

John T

TPD said ..What other terminal on the coil?.. You got me there, have not been around those Fords forgot Henry had them one-off do-dads. Sorry, Clapped I should not have been handing out misinformation to a young man who wants to learn. TPD thanks for steering me right!

Well done Tim. Welcome to YT Mr Clapped. Say thank you to Mr Daley when you figure it out.

Ill admit I dont know much about testing the coil or cleaning
the points etc. My first thought was restricted fuel flow since it
used to start without choke and then required more choke
until it eventually didnt start. Does it chug and stall? Or is
there no attempt to fire at all? If it chugs and stalls, Id check
the fuel tank and line for rust and dirt. Some carburetors have
a hidden filter inside the fitting where the fuel line connects.
This is just my guess. I know about as much about this as
you do. Keep learning and enjoy the old iron. Dave

OK and I just reread the post where are you said you got no spark. Oops. Good luck and I hope you get it sorted out. Dave