How do you go around brake restoration?

jd2cyl1943

Member
Location
Bemidji, MN
My 43' JD B is going to need it's brakes rebuilt. How does one go about this. What needs done other than cleaning and replacing the lining? That seems too easy. I fell like I'm forgetting something, but what?
 
It's pretty simple.

Take it apart and see what you find. It may not even need linings.

Grease and rust are the usual culprits. Leaking axle seals soak the
linings, so while you are in there, best to replace the seals even if they
are not leaking now, because if they do leak it will ruin the new brake
job.

Rusty, seized pivots and linkage is the other problem. Take everything
apart, wire brush the rust away, lube everything and be sure it moves
free.

You can buy just the linings and rivet or epoxy them on, or buy complete
shoes. Relining is much cheaper. Drums will probably be ok, just sand the
rust out. Remember this is low speed, off road, unlike a street vehicle,
functional is good enough.
 
Steve has given you a good layout of the items you
should look for during your rejuvenation of the brakes.
Without making an extensive search of your past posts
are you not the one that ask for recommendations for
tractor restoration books? Did you acquire one? I
would hope such a book would cover something like
this.

Secondly, everything I post is not necessarily perfect
English, grammar and sentence structure. I do strive to
make it the best I can usually rereading what I have
written at least once and checking for errors. I realize
that in this day of ..spell check.. it can slip incorrect
words in on you easily. Look at your title does it really
make sense? I believe you meant to say ..about.. and
not ..around.. In this time of hurry up and send the text
as quick as you can with the thinking that even with a
couple mistakes the receiving party will understand it
anyway. Take the time to reread and edit your post
prior to clicking the post button. Apply this double
check methodology to everything you do. It will make
you a better person and help you progress in life. The
Soap box is now put away.
 
Do whats suggested ,post photos of issues



Cook bonding in Cleveland will reline brakes linings for you if you cant find local .

My preference is have older brakes relined rather than buy new cheap Chinese ,dont care how much shipping is just what I do .
 
Thanks, Steve. You pretty much covered everything I was wondering about.

Yes, I did buy some books but I'm in the habit of learning as much as I can before I do something so I don't screw up. I thought that I could hear from real live people instead of a few pieces of paper so I could know what to expect may go wrong. And I always check my spelling but this time I was in a hurry.

And another thing to think about is that the brakes work, the just are stiff and take considerable effort to make them lock and unlock. Is there a way just to make them lock and unlock how they should without having to completely rebuild them? Once I shove them in place they stay there without locking them and they work quite well. I have it where I can spin the flywheel and put it in gear and move it around. With the brakes locked it won't move an inch. So they do function but they are way to stiff to use as the need kicked in and out.
 
First thing I'd try is just put some light oil or even WD-40 down on the pivot point and try working the pedal back and forth. If that doesn't help, you may end up pulling them off and cleaning and lubing all the moving parts till they get freed up. Just don't get any oil on the brake linings themselves.
 
[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]How does one go about this[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]

The whole brake assembly comes off the rear end housing.

Take a look at the diagram below.

a217035.jpg width=650


Note the cap screw(Key 19), stud (L.H. Side only)(Key 23), and housing (Key 24).

Take a look at the photo below of the left side of Old John Nancy's 48A.

a217037.jpg width=650




Take a look at the end of the brake shaft with 1 nut.

a217038.jpg width=650


Remove the cotter pin (Key 35), 1 nut (Key 34), washer (Key 33), and pinion (Key 35).

a217039.jpg width=650


a217040.jpg width=650


Loosen the adjusting screw (Key 15) by turning it clockwise to remove tension on the springs.

a217041.jpg width=650


a217042.jpg width=650




Remove the brake drum (Key 1) and brake shaft (Key 2).

a217043.jpg width=650


Hope this helps.
 
If you are in a tight budget you can save oil/grease soaked linings. Years and years ago I read in a old Volkswagen repair book that if you soak brake linings or clutch disks in white gas (Colman fuel) and then light them on fire a few times the oils will be drawn out and burned off. When my kids were very young we were very tight on cash and I had a car that the rear main seal puked oil all over the clutch disc. So I pulled the transmission and changed the seal, then cleaned the clutch parts, and burned the clutch disc as described. It worked great and had years of trouble free service.
 

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