1999 F250 SD - starter keeps running

dhermesc

Well-known Member
Never heard of this before. V10 engine. I start the truck and I can hear the starter still turning over. As near as I can tell the bendix is kicked back by the flywheel when the engine starts and does not interfere with the fly wheel. The starter keeps running for a while and eventually shuts down after a few minutes. I had not realized what was going on until I I drove it a short distance and shut off the truck - yet the starter kept running. It kept running with the key shut off and pulled from the ignition. It did not shut off until I removed the battery cable.

I have gone back and forth on this first the solenoid- then the starter switch at the base of the steering column. Now I am back to the solenoid. If the starter switch at the base of the steering wheel were hanging up I don't think the truck would shut off. I think the solenoid is sticking in the start position and either gets hot and releases or while driving the switch breaks contact due to bumps and vibrations.

Ever heard of this? Think its the solenoid (fender mount)?
 
Sometimes after a lot of use the contacts on the solenoid get rough and then will weld. Replace the solenoid.
 
You're wrong about the switch. There's half a dozen or more contacts in it for different functions. One might fail and the others work fine.
 
Does a 99 have tip start? There may be more involved in the circuit. The ECU may have a role in this. Need to start with determining if there is power on the signal wire at the starter.
 
If I were to troubleshoot this I would disconnect the signal wire from the solenoid when it sticks, that would narrow it down some. Troubleshoot first, buy parts last!
 
I don't know what they use for starters these days on Fords , but on my Dodge Cummins i had this happen and also on our old dodge intrepid . The contact in the starter solenoid welded themselfs together . Load of fun when ya have two batterys to unhook while it is still turning and all ya can think about is it bursting into flames . . Like said by others check to see where you have power and where ya don't first . I am out of the loop on Fords anymore and no old friends left still working for Ford. Even the old guys at the Goat Store are thinning out .
 
It happened to me on an older ford truck and it was the new solenoid I had just installed a few months prior. Don't you love pulling the battery cable with sparks flying everywhere? In that situation, that's all you can do. Be sure to look away when you pull the cable, I'm sure you know the battery can explode when sparks fly, especially in hot weather, be careful.
 
''As near as I can tell the bendix is kicked back by the flywheel when the engine starts and does not interfere with the fly wheel.''

Since this is a ''positive engagement starter'' that pretty much tells us you have sticking solenoid contacts, but the solenoid is releasing.

The flywheel can't ''kick back'' the starter drive in that sort of starter, it would stay engaged or chewing against the flywheel IF the solenoid was still activated.
 
I had this occur intermittently on my '91 F-150. It was the solenoid switch mounted on the inner fender. Quick test; If it occurs, give it a good whack. If the starter then dis-engages, it proves the solenoid switch was sticking. Time to get a new one.
 
I agree with woreout, solenoid contacts are sticking. If
there was a problem in the ignition switch the solenoid
would be engaged and grinding as he said. For those
who are unfamiliar with TIP starting that moresmoke
mentioned this is a controlled start cycle by the ECM.
Once you make an initial contact to the start circuit
you can release the key and the starter will stay
engaged and start the engine and the computer turns
it off after the engine has started or a predetermined
starter run cycle has timed out determining the engine
is not going to start. I do not think this has anything to
do with his issue. I do not think this system was
utilized much until the mid 2000 models. Linking an
example replacement starter, example only not sure
how far I would trust a $64 starter.
Example starter
 
We had a guy bring his car to us for work. He had just put a rebuilt starter on it from a major parts place. He pulled it into the shop, shut off the key and the starter kept turning. We pushed it out of the shop, pulled the battery cable, but it was too late, the grease on the motor caught fire and before the fire department could get there, the car burnt up. Until you figure out the problem, I would not leave the positive cable attached to the battery. It was a ford car too.
 
Had a similar occurence on the Oldsmobile engine in my 81 GMC pickup. Engine started ok but the starter kept spinning even when we shut the engine off. Only way to stop it was to disconnect the battery cable. Turns out when I had installed the starter I had either too many or not enough shims under the base of the starter and somehow this made it hard to disengage. My brother the mechanic explained how it works but I can't remember the details. I soon got another starter and must have got the right amount of shims under the base because it has never done that again.
 
I started out easy and replaced the solenoid. I was showing my 10 year old how it was important to get the connections tight - but not to tight or you'll break it. Just then the plastic solenoid broke. Back to town to get another solenoid - installed without breaking it and no change.

OK - its the ignition switch at the base of the steering column. Had that on hand as step two. Installed - exact same results. Starter keeps running even with the key off. Only way to shut it off is to remove the battery terminal.



The post below about the starter shims might be onto something. This truck just had the transmission removed and reinstalled. With that they removed and reinstalled the starter. I wonder is something shifted. I don't understand how shims would make a difference but whe he described is exactly what I'm dealing with.

This thing has no issues starting.
 
(quoted from post at 17:52:26 03/05/23) I started out easy and replaced the solenoid. I was showing my 10 year old how it was important to get the connections tight - but not to tight or you'll break it. Just then the plastic solenoid broke. Back to town to get another solenoid - installed without breaking it and no change.

OK - its the ignition switch at the base of the steering column. Had that on hand as step two. Installed - exact same results. Starter keeps running even with the key off. Only way to shut it off is to remove the battery terminal.



The post below about the starter shims might be onto something. This truck just had the transmission removed and reinstalled. With that they removed and reinstalled the starter. I wonder is something shifted. I don't understand how shims would make a difference but whe he described is exactly what I'm dealing with.

This thing has no issues starting.

Did you replace the solenoid on the STARTER or the solenoid on the FENDER (which was unlikely to be causing the problem AS YOU DESCRIBED IT)?

0zA7jmP.jpg


The other poster was dealing with a GM starter that is a ''saddle mount'' and adding shims between the starter and the bottom of the engine block affects gear mesh.

You truck has a ''flange mount'' starter that attaches to the flywheel housing.

i2almxX.jpg


NOT so easy to change the gear mesh with shim on this style.

Note the solenoid, is that the one you changed?
 

Also, your truck may be new enough to to have yet ANOTHER relay between the switch on the column and the solenoid on the fender, it would be a little ''ice cube relay'' plugged into one of the fuse/relay centers and labeled ''start'' in the owner's manual fuse chart.

If all else fails, look into that.
 
Since this is a ''positive engagement starter'' that pretty much tells us you have sticking solenoid contacts, but the solenoid is releasing.

The flywheel can't ''kick back'' the starter drive in that sort of starter, it would stay engaged or chewing against the flywheel IF the
solenoid was still activated.


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First line - You say I have sticking solenoid contacts - then you say if the solenoid was activated it would be grinding against the
flywheel. The starter is engaged but bendix is not grinding on the flywheel.
 
Did you check to see if there is power at wire or small terminal on the starter when this is happening? If NO POWER there you certainly like doing a lot of work that was not needed. Wore out suggested and I agreed that the high amp contacts in the solenoid on the starter is what is likely sticking and staying in contact. The key through whatever relay and solenoid is energizing the the solenoid to pull the drive in and connect those contacts to power the starter motor. You let off the key when the engine starts and the solenoid drops off the force on the drive. And also releases pressure against the high amp contacts. Since they are welding themselves together or sticking some way the starter motor keeps turning until they pop back apart. There is probably a spring that is pushing on them to move it out of the contact position so it take a while for it to release. If you did check the small solenoid wire and it did have power I do not see how to could not be grinding the drive gear because it is engage by the solenoid. That is why the woreout scenario is most likely the problem.
 
When I have seen similar instances, the battery is weak and the amperage ramps up and it arc welds the contacts together. I would check the date code on the battery and have it tested.
 
My 88 Ford F150 did the same thing. Whack it with a hammer handle and it would shut off. Got three new solenoids before I solved the problem. Auto parts salesman acted as though this was a common thing.
 

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