1973 Ford 3000 Solenoid Wiring

Hi, I replaced the solenoid on my 1973 Ford 3000. I thought I hooked up up correctly. But as soon as I touched the negative cable to the battery, it sparked and attempted to turn over. Besides making me jump a mile high, I am confused as to what is going on. I have searched high and low for a image of a correctly wired solenoid. Any ideas how to troubleshoot this?

Where did you get the starter solenoid, there are many variations that can look the same on the outside and be wired differently on the inside. Unless it's by part number CORRECT for that application it may be the wrong solenoid ans still look just like the old one.



Even IF you have the correct solenoid you could have gotten wires in the wrong place, or it could have been ''bad out of the box'' or the terminal studs could have turned a bit in the plastic body when you tightened the nuts if you were not careful and restrained the wire ends from turning along with the terminal studs.

If the studs turn a bit they can cause the solenoid to be shorted out internally and pass current without the starter switch being pressed.

The first one I bought was from All States, but they sent the wrong one and didn't have the right one. I searched high and low online
and found one on Amazon. (Ford 2000 3000 4000 5000 Starter Solenoid. D7NN11390B)

I was a bit surprised to find it there, but it looks exactly the same, but like you say, it still may not be right. I am not very
experienced at this...actually its the first time I have dealt with a solenoid, so I am skeptical whether or not I hooked it up right,
but from everything I can find, it's pretty straight forward, or so it seems. There are two poles jumped, there is a jump to the
starter from another pole, and there is the positive battery cable and another wire on the big pole, and a tab wire I assume is some
safety wire. THe big pole sticks out so I assume it gets the juice.

I haven't been able to find a pic of a correctly wired solenoid for a 1973 Ford 3000.

I sure appreciate your insight!

Right here at YT parts just what you need, fast shipping also.
here

D7NN11390B is the one you found on Amazon and looks right? Does your solenoid mount right on the starter?

Does it look like this one?

Yes, that is the one.

Thanks, but that is the wrong solenoid. My mounts into the tractor. About an hour ago, I found the same part I ordered off Amazon on YT, so I am fairly certain it is the right part.

Sorry, I forgot to mention, yes, it mounts right on the starter.

The strange thing is, I took off the new one, re-installed the old one, wired it the same, and it is doing the same shorting/turning over
the starter when I touch the negative battery cable to the terminal. I think that means I am reattaching the wires incorrectly...but how
to do that correctly is my search.

It is important to clarify what you have. Most, myself included, where thinking of the regular Ford type 4 post remote mounted solenoid. I only caught it trying to find a cross reference and installation sheet for the Ford part number you posted.

I believe you have what is called the 5" starter, and I think it is a Lucas unit. Here are a couple pictures borrowed from the internet that might help you. No guarantee.

Yes, I believe it is a 5 starter and yes, it looks like the pictures you posted. Thank you! Do you know why the starter turns over when
I attempt to connect the negative battery cable (which is already connected to the starter, and the positive is already connected to the
solenoid) to the negative terminal? I am perplexed by this. Even after I re-installed the old solenoid, I am getting the same results.

Thoughts?

(thank you for searching for these photos! they are the right ones!)

Hello bmurnion welcome to YT! What exactly were the symptoms that led you to replace the old one? When you tighten it down whether it is the new or old one do you seem to be drawing it against spring pressure? Did the old one when you took it of the first time push off as if it were under tension? The new one could have been faulty and when you touched the cable and it turned over a bit. Maybe the drive is not as properly lubed or working as freely as it should. Now it is setting there in the flywheel engaged and when you bolt the solenoid on it is pushing the plunger of the solenoid in making the contacts connect. Secondly are those lands or rings on the end of the plunger supposed to be on either side of the engagement mechanism inside so they would be able to place force either direction? Like a pin in a notch if you follow what I am saying? If so with those long studs I do not see how you could position it correctly. So maybe the plunger is getting shoved in to far even if the drive is not engaged. All this assumes you have not removed the starter and are just removing the solenoid. If you have not pulled the starter I would recommend doing that so you can see exactly what is going on. Maybe the poster Ultradog will be along he knows these 3000s like the back of his hand.

If you unhook the small start wire from the solenoid does it does it still crank the engine over when you attach the battery cable? If that wire has power on it when the key is not turned to start, the ignition switch could be bad, or you have a wire crossed. That would be my first thoughts.

So if you had the starter off with the solenoid off can you move the drive in and out as it would to engage the flywheel? Do you understand what I mean about the rings on the plungers fitting in the correct position to operate what I will call the fork inside the starter that moves the drive into the flywheel? I have attached a diagram that for the starter you tractor appears to have on it, there are about 4 different ones that were used. What I am saying is that the rings on the plungers have to engage in a certain position to operate what I call the fork which is shown as part 11 with the bolt it pivots on. I made a crude little drawing in the picture hopefully explaining what I mean. If that is not connected properly it would push the plunger in and make the contacts conduct power. Do you have an automotive test light or multimeter? You could check to see if the two terminal posts are making contact when it is off the machine. Connect the test light lead or the black lead of the meter set to read DC voltage to the negative battery post. Hold one of the terminals of the solenoids to the positive battery terminal. Then touch the test light probe or meter lead to the other terminal. It should not light or show voltage, if it does there is something wrong in the solenoid.

Starter diagram

Your wiring is mucked up and not the relay's fault. Do you have an I&T FO-20 Manual? It has the correct wiring diagram in it for your 3000. Investment in a manual is the best thing you can do for your machine.







Tim Daley(MI)

No, I don't have that manuel, I think you might be right: I should have one. Thank you!

I did not know that about the plunger. I could tell when I took off the old solenoid, I had to slide it to the left to disengage the fork, but I didn't know there was a particular way to re-install. I just entered on the left and slide it back on. I better relook at that function. Your drawing was great, it helped clarify what you were referring to. (Since I have zero experience doing this! But I am very willing to learn and listen to good coaching!)
Thank you kindly!

(quoted from post at 23:11:25 02/20/23) I did not know that about the plunger. I could tell when I took off the old solenoid, I had to slide it to the left to disengage the fork, but I didn't know there was a particular way to re-install. I just entered on the left and slide it back on. I better relook at that function. Your drawing was great, it helped clarify what you were referring to. (Since I have zero experience doing this! But I am very willing to learn and listen to good coaching!)
Thank you kindly!

Click to expand...

If you are viewing in Modern it might be difficult to tell that wording below the picture that says ..Starter Diagram.. is actually a link to the manufacturers parts diagram. The bolt that fork pivots on may have to be removed to get the solenoid plunger in the right position.

Dude, you're amazing! Thank you for pointing this out. I am going to work on it later. I have much to explore.