Starter problems

8NHENRY

Member
My starter gear came loose, looking to see if anyone has a fix for something like this besides replacing the bendix. Not opposed to buying a new bendix as I am making the starter inoperable when done. Just looking for options. Thanks
mvphoto102473.jpg
 
If you're making the starter inoperable (?), just take the drive gear out.

Otherwise replace it, not worth the effort to save it or risk damage to the
flywheel gear.
 

I think he is worried he will make the starter inoperable if he tears the starter down to replace the drive. He has another post going on the Harry Ferguson forum asking about TIG welding the gear back in place, or other repair he can do without taking the starter apart.
 
Some here won't agree with what I'm about to say, but it's true.
Both my Jubilee and Farmall C have rebuilt engines with good
compression. Both tractors were converted to 12v.
After shearing off 2 starter drives on each tractor, I replaced
my Jubilee's starter with a 12v starter. It not only damaged the
starter drive, it sheared off a tooth on the starter ring.
No 12v starter available for my Farmall so I replaced the 12v
battery with my oldest lawn mower battery and used 10g wire
instead of battery cables.
End of damaging starter drives and chipping off starter ring
teeth.
cvphoto147435.jpg

I'm only able to do this because the Farmall has a magneto and
produces a hit spark.

So if you have converted to 12v and have a rebuilt engine, be
ready to replace a lot of starter drives and teeth in the
winter.

I used a magnet and fished out many pieces of broken starter
drives out of my Jubilee's bellhousing.

Is your starter a 6v starter and you converted to 12v?
 
Try posting on the FORD N-BOARD - not a lot of traffic on the TALK forum. Tell us if using a 9N or and 8N, it matters, they are different. I advise to take it to your
local starter/alt shop who knows old FORDs and have them inspect, evaluate, and rebuild if possible. Forget trying to tig weld. Not worth the time. Option #2 if unit is
unusable, is to find a used one on fleabay or CL and get it rebuilt.


Tim Daley(MI)
 
(quoted from post at 08:59:54 02/14/23) Try posting on the FORD N-BOARD - not a lot of traffic on the TALK forum. Tell us if using a 9N or and 8N, it matters, they are different. I advise to take it to your
local starter/alt shop who knows old FORDs and have them inspect, evaluate, and rebuild if possible. Forget trying to tig weld. Not worth the time. Option #2 if unit is
unusable, is to find a used one on fleabay or CL and get it rebuilt.


Tim Daley(MI)

He is on the Harry Ferguson Forum, it is a TO 30.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1607633
 
12V causing problems with 6V starters is the exception not the rule.

If we're going to use anecdotal evidence, we have several 6V tractors converted to 12V, and not one single problem with a starter in the whole fleet.

These tractors were converted to 12V because 6V would barely crank the engine over even with brand new fully charged batteries, new proper gauge battery cables, and clean connections.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I never have pulled a starter apart before. Is there much to replacing the bendix? I will have to do some research on that.
 
Not opposed to buying a new bendix as I am making the starter inoperable when done.

To replace that starter drive you only need to remove the two long bolts holding the starter together and CAREFULLY remove the ''Drive End'' casting surrounding the drive being careful NOT to pull the armature out of the ''belly'' and brush holder at the opposite end.
 
(quoted from post at 05:59:54 02/14/23) Try posting on the FORD N-BOARD - not a lot of traffic on the TALK forum. Tell us if using a 9N or and 8N, it matters, they are different. I advise to take it to your
local starter/alt shop who knows old FORDs and have them inspect, evaluate, and rebuild if possible. Forget trying to tig weld. Not worth the time. Option #2 if unit is
unusable, is to find a used one on fleabay or CL and get it rebuilt.


Tim Daley(MI)

Tim, take another look at the O.P.'s photo, it obviously NOT an ''N Series'' Ford starter.
 
YT sells new starters and parts.
One time I needed an axle seal for my Farmall. I looked up the
part number on YT.
Cheap seal on YT, buy expensive shipping.
So I went to NAPA with the part # and bought the seal I needed
saving time and shipping..
 
(quoted from post at 09:14:11 02/14/23) 12V causing problems with 6V starters is the exception not the rule.

If we're going to use anecdotal evidence, we have several 6V tractors converted to 12V, and not one single problem with a starter in the whole fleet.

These tractors were converted to 12V because 6V would barely crank the engine over even with brand new fully charged batteries, new proper gauge battery cables, and clean connections.

I agree. My NAA was converted before I got it 30 years ago.
My Ford 860, I converted 10 years ago and have had zero issues with either starter.
 
I had a similar experience on a 6v starter. (62 Ford 4cyl 2000) It had a modified 6v alternator that failed so I changed it over to 12v, used an off the shelf prestolite 12v alternator, put on a 12v coil and away it went. For awhile...

After about 4 months it made a terrible grinding noise when attempting to crank over and then nothing. Pulled the starter to find the drive shattered.

I explained what happened to my starter guy and he recommended putting in 12v field windings to reduce the torque stress on the bendix. According to him it was an occasional issue for a 6v starter running on 12v...

He put in the 12v fields, new bendix and it is still going strong. This was about 15 years ago. Just my experience.

Carl
 
Before you pull the starter apart, mark the location of the end and front pieces with a punch mark to align the same way on the main body when putting
it back together. Then the brushes will have to be pulled apart to push the armature back in a little tricky sometimes. Stan
 
1st option- replace bendix.
2nd option- buy a rebiult starter.
3rd option- refer to 1 and 2.
 

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