Um....Advice anyone?

I was trying to get the piston in my John Deere B out the same way the other one came out. As you can see it didn't go well. That was my fathers Splitting Maul/Mallet. I cut a piece of wood and slid into the bore and used the mallet side to pound on it. The other one came out using this method. Any advice on how to get the dumb thing out?

boy are you in trouble now,... better get him a new handle. that is too light of a hammer. u need the old style post mall and a round block
of hard wood the same size as the bore. then you go to it. also could use a press if you have one . make sure the bore is clean the way it is
to come out. even if you have to hone the rust out of the top. the thing is... there is no wear on the bottom of the block and they come out
easier out the top. plus use lots of lube and dont just keep pounding in one direction. use hydraulic oil as its thin. you need an 18 lb.
mall also for the job. and the reason u use a mall because it is made for pounding posts in the ground. ever try pounding a post with a
sledge hammer?

Use Gorilla glue on the handle (wet both surfaces with water!) then apply the glue in three stripes down the length of the split, each glue stripe should be 1/8inch wide/tall. Put the two pieces together as they were, and tape the handle with electrical tape stretching the tape as you layer it on spiraling to the other end. Let it stand in the house for 24 hours. Leaving the tape on is not a bad idea either. Overstrike is hitting the handle on part of that which is the target. From the looks of the handle near the head, it has seen multiple handle hits. On the piston put A new batch of PB Blaster juice on the top of the piston, wait for the handle to heal, and use a hard wood block that just fits in the cylinder. White Oak or maple is nice. Then pound on it some more! Jim

How long have you had it soaking and it what?

Fill the cylinder with water in a heated shop of course. When the water soaks past the piston knock it out like the other one. Yes, water works every time.

take the studs out of the block so you aren't hitting them with the handle. Put some oil and
diesel fuel in the cylinder and light it and let it burn out, then see if it will drive out.

Down the road rustred went, can you tell if it moved
some? If it has I would suggest pounding it some the
other way. Getting some fresh penetrating oil around
the edge of the piston in the returning direction,
blowing any crud out from around the piston with
compressed air prior to applying the penetrating oil
may also be helpful. Burning the fuel in the cylinder
may also help, but I would use that for a second
attempt if needed.

opps dad gonna make you get new maul handle. lots of penetrating
oil and not wd 40

Fill with a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf. Wait a while. Then swing with a real sledge hammer.
AaronSEIA

When you buy a new handle look for one where the grain runs the length of the handle. It should not run out the side like yours does (or did). The rings of the wood should run from the front of the handle to the back, in the direction you are swinging the tool, like a baseball bat. It is probably not the first one hanging on the rack - somebody else rejected that one...

I'd suggest you remove the head studs while you are waiting for the penetrating oil to soak in. As is, you risk damaging threads, bending
the stud, etc. It'll be easier to use the next sledge, too.

Two part answer. If you have a hydraulic press try to get it under pressure. Do not try to get it out all at once, but apply pressure and leave it. Come
back later and do it again. Eventually it will loosen. I used alcohol in the cylinder.
Second part. My son and his friend were splitting fire wood while I ran a few errands, circa 1985. One mall and one splitting axe, and some wedges. Upon
return both handles were broken and Mama was giving them hot chocolate in the house.

last two i did i made a thick steel plate almost as large as the face of the
piston and hammered on it with an air hammer and anvil bit. Vibrates the rust
loose i think, in addition i had a large hammer and block of wood for when the
air compressor needed to catch up. I use diesel fuel to soak and some added
carb cleaner.
Looks cold there, i never had much luck when the block is cold, may need to
warm it up inside. Pulling sleeves out of McCormick Deering blocks taught me
that, couldnt do it outside in the winter.

Thanks for the advice. And yes I now owe him a new one.

My opinion is NOT to remove the studs, if there is any way to avoid that, you save the work and the chance of damage/leaks when replacing them. I have had blocks bored from the bottom with studs in place, so unless one is damaged beyond repair leave them in. If you do decide to remove them bolt the block back to the main case, it gives you a much more secure way to hold the block. Advice from others about removing the piston is good.

I got a gallon of PB blaster, 18oz of PB blaster, a new Splitting Maul, and a 12 pound sledge hammer. That ought to do it, huh?

Guess u didnt read what I posted about removing pistons

I did, but I got what I could find.

No sense wasting money on panther pizz. As that all it is a waste of money. Dont need to remove studs either. As I said make sure h got round hard wood the size of the bore. Even if you have to cut a tree down. Then u cut it to make sure u are just above the studs. Then u hammer on that block with a post mall. The post mall is pretty much the size of them pistons. Works way better than a sledge hammer pounding on wood with only like a 3 inch head. All that does is beat the wood up. I have removed many pistons that are a lot harder than this one u have. Have u sanded all the rust out yet ? Follow advice for results that works. U need to clean up that bore as good as u can. So when the piston moves the oil has a chance to seep in. Plus it only takes a small amount of oil. Cause when u hit that block all the oil will come flying out at you. Its a time consuming thing and also have air handy do u can keep blowing the rust out before relubing the cylinder. Just from that picture of that piston I can have it out with only a few smacks. Plus on a john Deere the bottom of the cyl. Is where the water sits not like in a vertical cylinder. Making it lots easier to hammer out. And a 12 lb hammer is too small. My findings my advise from experience. Next post u better have that piston out.

As I said, I live in a smallish town and got what I could find. It's [i:bf8cae63f9]my[/i:bf8cae63f9] piston, [i:bf8cae63f9]my [/i:bf8cae63f9]money. I can do what [i:bf8cae63f9]I[/i:bf8cae63f9] want.