Ford F250 Replacement Dual Alternator

I have a 2010 ford F-250 super duty diesel truck with a 6.4 diesel engine. that needs the Dual Alternators to be replaced. I have read my Service book they tell me to take the top of the truck apart to get to them to replace them. Now when I get on you tubes to see what everybody is doing. they are taking the inner fender well out to get to the Alternator. What is interesting is that nobody shows a way to change the Daul Alternators on this truck. So, my question is what the best way is to do this. Should I take apart the stuff on the top of this engine compartment to get to both of them OR shall I try to just take the inner fender out and hope I can get to the upper one as the bottom one. that I need to ask has anybody out here have a truck like mine. With Daul Alternators on it? Yes. I have to say never have I owned a truck with Daul Alternators on it. I am looking for the best way to get into them and replace them. any suggestions you have might be a big help thanks.

All I can tell ya is what I read. It says to take the battery tray out that's it.

Inner fender
On most all the inner fender comes out EZ if it looks like it will help then take it out.

Removal and Installation

Disconnect the dual batteries. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.

Remove the bolt and position the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor aside.
To install, tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).

Remove the bolt and position the ground strap aside.
To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

Remove the 2 bolts and position the power steering fluid reservoir bracket aside.
To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

Remove the 3 bolts and position the cowl wiring harness aside.
To install, tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).

Remove the 3 bracket screws from the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) tube bracket.

To install, tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).

Remove the 2 stud nuts and the CACtube bracket.
To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Loosen the 2 clamps and remove the CACtube.
To install, tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).

Rotate the secondary accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and position the accessory drive belt aside.

Disconnect the generator electrical connector.

Position the generator B+ protective cover aside, remove the B+ terminal nut and position the B+ terminal aside.

To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

Remove the 3 bolts and the generator.
To install, tighten to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft).
To install, reverse the removal procedure.

I think I would consider trading trucks if I had to go through all that just to change an alternator. What is the reason for 2 alternators?

> What is the reason for 2 alternators?

Mo' power is mo' betta!

Dual alternators are an option on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks for applications with high electrical loads. Wreckers and ambulances, for example.

Its snow plow prep package.

To what I get is that this was an optional package for this engine to have. Some people have told me that this engine with the two Alternators. that it requires the Amperage of the two Alternators that if you walk it down to one it requires to have the kit to do this. It is interesting to see it is 260 amps and a 200-amp system. this might be good for towing trailers. what made me by the truck was it had the fifth wheel frame for the hitch plus it had the goes nick ball set too. That told me it was made for towing. that is what I needed. Most people I know that are mechanics told me that I should change both of them at the same time. So that is what I am going to do. Just waiting on a nice day to get outside to do it. I do tow my tractors on my car trailers. Someday I might be able to buy a Gosse neck fifth trailer for hauling tractors but for now I have to takes a step at a time.

I used to have a 2009 F350 and read that service manual extensively. From what I recall *every* service activity could be completed with the cab on, the issue was that for some more extensive work it was easier to remove the cab if you had a two post lift available. The cab removal was only like a 30 minute process once you had done a few.

As far as the alternators go, I had the single and never had to replace it, though I did see the idler placed where the second alternator would go. As long as you fully remove both batteries so no chance of accidentally shorting things in tight quarters you should have no real issue replacing them cab-on. Removing the battery tray may well improve access a lot and should take like 30 seconds and a few bolts.

Removing the wheel well liner provides a good deal of access and is also very easy. I had to do that when wiring heavy aux power to an inverter and a winch and put a contactor to shut off that power under the fusebox as it was the only mounting location I could find that left the unfused cable to the battery nice and short.

Having the two alternators to make 260 Amps vs. the 200 Amps single alternator, which is what I believe you are saying, the advantage is duty cycle. The two alternators don't have to work as hard to produce the 260 Amps as the one does to produce 200.

Neither setup will last long at 100% output at 100% duty cycle, but the dual setup can produce about 200 Amps combined for a lot longer than the single 200 Amp alternator can.