ih pressure plate

google is not my friend. i have been looking . i want to know if this is the pressure plate for the 282 engine , as in 560's. i heard it is just type in the number and it tells you what its for,.. well no it dont.
 
(quoted from post at 20:03:51 12/08/22) google is not my friend. i have been looking . i want to know if this is the pressure plate for the 282 engine , as in 560's. i heard it is just type in the number and it tells you what its for,.. well no it dont.

Here is link to the online Case, New Holland, International part number search for the part number. It tells the models it is used in, not engines.

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...utch-assys-rm/reman-clutch-plate/p/405300R92R

Click on the View More button in the Fitment area to see the model list.

mvphoto100035.jpg
 
I did a search of that number and found this. It is a 12 inch 17 spline 1.75 dia shaft that fits IH 2706,2756,2806,2826,3088,3288,660,706,756,766,786,806,826,856,886,966. Hope this helps
 
How do u know if dont fit a 560? In j Hamiltons post it says it fits a 660. Same engine , so thats good enough for me.
 
Part number for the 560 is 359121R98R but the clutch disc specs are the same as the 405300R92R maybe the pressure plate is different? I don't know for sure on that
 
Ya can put a pressure plate from a 706-806 in a S/MTA BUT you best have some leg mussel . It all has to do with what springs are used for the disc once again is it fiber or how many pads . Spline and shaft size is the big thing . To stop the slipping on one of my customers S/M T A after the rebuild and up grade the stock clutch would not hold and e3ven upping to the 560 plate it slipped under load . We then went with a stock 706-806 and put the power to the wheels . His M T A on the dyno has just under a stock 806 D and yes he does farm with it and has been in the same family since new . Even burnt under a two row mounted corn picker and rebuilt and when we did the rebuild back in like 95 the last time was after it burnt in 56 when it got the upgrades . I spent a lot of time finding the stuff used the first time to do it like it was done before . I own a S/MTA with all the upgrades from M & W and mine will put out 60 Hp. Vernon's will do 94 and change . i can pull 3x16's in third at 8-9 inches deep in our ground Vernon can pull four 16's in third and flat up and run away from me . He can put it on the New Holland grinder mixer and grind corn out of the crib almost as well as my 806 D Yea it took a good pressure plate to put the power to the ground BUT man that pedal is stiff and ya don't set long holding it down .
 
Just what kind of magic do you do to a Super MTA to get 94hp and be able to use it to farm with? His grill nose piece must look funny if it is big enough to hold the radiator to cool an engine producing that kind of power. I am detecting an odor of aquatic creatures! Well at least you did not say
yours dynoed 96. Seems like the old adage would apply here ..if you need a bigger tractor, buy one..!
 
96 hp? how did the gears survive? new set of ihc hi top pistons in our m and 3 years of plowing gumbo we replaced lots of gears
 
Theres no magic to it, some people actually know how to do things and do them well, then theres people who are rude, arrogant and think they know everything.
75-80hp SM gassers will run all day long, even at 100hp but you have too keep an eye on the gauge.
225-250hp 1066s will run fine all day long, watching the gauges, just have to rebuild them every year or two. Can rebuild that a lot of years and justify the cost yearly over buying a new bigger tractor.
 
A 1066 will not hold together at 225 to 250 hp. Even if it would, it doesnt have enough tire to get that kind of power to the ground. A 95 hp Super MTA will not stay cool
 
Yeah it sure will hold together, I know of two, one on a dairy about 8 miles from me. They rebuild it every year and kinda why they have weights and duals. That 1066 pushed close to 230
 
Stuart I agree. ..A 1066 will not hold together at 225 to 250 hp. Even if it would, it doesnt have enough tire to get that kind of power to the ground.. So I say even If you did weight it enough to hook it to the ground those bull gear finals would lunch out in no time. Interesting how ..holding together.. and overhaul it once a year mean the same thing. Sure a 1066 was a relatively tough tractor, but if you get carried away turning on the ..Happy screw.. the glue starts coming out of the seams. Back to my original statement if you need a 250 hp tractor then buy one that was built as one from the ground up. I am not sure where the Tractor Vet is from but I do not think it is close to Virginia, yet somehow they both drink the same coffee.
 

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