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how much air will my diesel suck up from a leaking tank

R

ratface

Member
I was wondering how much air is going to get into my fuel system on a Case diesel 1490 that has been leaking fuel from a small hairline crack on the left saddle tank. As most all of you know it's a royal PITA to start a diesel that's been run dry but what about one that has leaked dry?

The fuel gauge doesn't work on this tractor but doing the math it has probably lost all fuel from both saddle tanks just from leaking as I have been collecting it and measuring. I tried to seal it with a product made by JB weld for fuel tanks but it was not possible with a constant drip and cold temperatures. I am in NW Illinois and not around the machine all year. I don't think anything has a chance of sealing the leak until spring. Assuming I get something to hold in the spring how much fuel system bleeding am I in for, has everything leaked from the filters and injectors or just the tanks?
 
Soon as the level drops below the pickup tube it will air lock all the way to the first component with a check valve in it. Probably be ok long as it doesnt siphon the filters out.
 
Just drain the tank and for get it till spring, or when you get back to work on it. Will not be a problem, and if it needs some bleeding. It will only be to the first filter, as the air will flow out to it when you open the bleeder. What material is the tank made of? Plastic steel,other.
 
It's a steel tank with a 1/4 hairline leak about an inch from the the drain nut, leaks consistently drip, drip, drip
 
I do not know if this will work on diesel, but an old car salesman's trick for a leaking GAS tank was to rub a bar of soap over the leak. I have seen it work on gas, a good short term fix. It may or may not work on diesel, will cost nothing to try. Also almost any brand seemed to work. Wish you the best of luck, let us know how it works. joe
 
Something to think about when you repair it, when a fuel tank leaks from a CRACK vs. a rust pinhole or damage from a debris strike it is because the steel flexed until it cracked due to vibration from the tractor in use and/or from the weight of the fuel sloshing around. A successful repair will involve soldering a stiff patch over the crack to end flexing in that area IMHO.
 
I've had good luck with Seal All in similar situations. You can use fiberglass or similar cloth with it for additional strength. May not be a permanent fix (though I know many tanks still holding years afterwards) but if nothing else should help the immediate problem, and it's meant to be applied right to a leak. Available in most good auto stores or many places online--one link below for reference.
seal all
 
Leaking tank can be annoying. My JD 401 B had a cracked tank. I tried fiber glass cloth. It worked for a while. I should have used different resin. The surf board resin didn't work. I took it to a radiator shop. They soldered the crack. It leaked again. I got a repair kit for tank leaks from NAPA, made by Permatex. It's been the best so far. I had a stripped drain plug on a aluminum diesel saddle tank. I glued the plug back in with JB Weld. A few years ago, so far no problem. Stan
 


IMHO when tractor isn't operating if you turn fuel control valve under tank to off position no air can/will enter fuel system from fuel control valve to inj pump. Be sure fuel tank has adequate fuel to clear tank stand pipe before operating then open fuel control valve & no air will have entered fuel system.
 
Get the fuel below the crack, drill both ends of it to keep it from cracking more, and JB Weld it with one of their fuel tank patch kits.
AaronSEIA
 
Pull tank and braze it will be the best fix for the long haul on it. All the goo's glues and foolishness will come back to bite you with it on the bottom. The weight of the fuel and vibration will just crack it open again. It could be welded also but harder to do and the brazing it will flow into and on the steel well. If it does not flow like solder it is not sticking. It must be clean and free from fuel. It can be brazed while upside down and empty. No it will not explode or any of that nonsense if you start and don't stop till you are done. I did the fuel tank on the combine last year like this.
 

cvphoto142215.jpg
 
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