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Ferguson TO-20 clutch issues

T

T-Nason

Member
Hello,
Recently purchased a TO-20 to use around the house and garden. Anyways, I noticed when I depress the clutch pedal when its driving forward or reverse it can take anywhere from 5-10 seconds for it to actually stop driving. Not coasting, but actual power to the rear tires. I figure its something where its not releasing all the way? Anyone have any advice on this? Sometimes it does it and sometimes it doesnt. It doesnt slip when pulling either.
 
If you were pulling a disc harrow in plowed ground would it stop immediately? If so, the issue may be sticky material on the clutch to flywheel face. If you can stop, shift out of one gear into a different gear with no extra grinding, that wold be my guess. If it was in neutral and the clutch was up, then pushed down to shift into gear, does it grind pretty seriously? Jim
 
Do you have a bush hog or other PTO-driven attachment hooked up? If so, you need an overrunning clutch. Without it, the tractor will be driven by the attachment until it (the attachment) stops spinning, even with the clutch pushed in.
BillL
 
Any signs of oil leaking into the bell housing (either from the engine or transmission)? I had a TEF 20 that would do almost exactly the same thing and it was caused by oil on the clutch.
 
Ive only used it to pull some empty hay wagons around
currently. Havent tried any field work. Wanted to get it sorted
out first before doing any real work
 
There is a small oil leak from the drain plug (very small little drops here and there) and one from the rear.
 
Ive been pushing the clutch and shifting to neutral to stop and its not grinding. I noticed when I first start you can feel the gears like turning when you put the tractor In gear but it doesnt grind. They stop turning when you attempt to put it in gear, like they are just coasting
 
Use it for heavier work that requires starting the load from stopped. This will heat the clutch surfaces and may make it better. Jim
 
There are several things that can cause what you describe.

The most common is the clutch disc is worn. When new, the disc has grooves machined in the face of the lining. The purpose of the grooves is to serve as a vacuum break to keep the disc from 'sticking' to the flywheel or pressure plate when released.

Also, if the clutch is oil soaked it gets sticky, especially in cold weather, and is further aggravated if the vacuum break grooves are worn away. If you end up replacing the clutch, be sure to replace the transmission input shaft seal, super easy while you are in there. That seal is more likely to put oil on the clutch than the engine seal.

Another cause is the disc spline binding on the input shaft. Sometimes the shaft gets a grove worn where the disc runs. If worn it will need some dressing with a grinder to remove the edges of the groove.

And a failing pilot bearing will cause the engine to continue to apply force to the input shaft even if the clutch is fully released. The pilot bearing should always be replaced when the clutch is serviced.
 
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