Shop heater keeps blowing 3amp fuse

T-Nason

Member
Had a LPhot dawg heater installed last year. Worked fine. This year it worked about a day and kicked the 3 ampfuse off. Replaced it and it worked well for about a week. Blew the fuse again. Any ideas?? Im getting correct voltage to and from the little transformer in it. Is it the board going?
 
I had a slightly similar problem a few years ago with our home HVAC system, and the problem tuned out to be the relay that starts the AC compressor was burning out. Don't put a bigger fuse in! And don't ask me why! I fixed myself for <$30, but needed slightly more parts than originally needed!
 
I had the same problem with my AC this summer.
The compressor contactor shorted out and blew the 3 amp fuse and damaged 2 digital thermostats before I converted thermostat back to the old school round honeywell.
I bought 100 3a fuses off Amazon for under $10.
At the supply house they wanted over a $1/fuse.

The normal current is normally less than 0.25 amps.
So don't use a larger fuse.
I used an old 24vac transformer to test my bad contacter with.
24v and 7 amps told me I needed a new contacter.
 
It could be the board, but it could also be anything powered by the transformer, like the gas valve, or blower relay. Could also be a wire shorting to ground.

It can be difficult to pinpoint the exact cause, especially since it doesn't blow the fuse instantly.

Any chance it's still under warranty?
 

Are you using the exact, correct fuse? (Some applications require a ''Slo-Blo'' fuse.)

Are the clips that hold the fuse clean and gripping the fuse tightly, poor connections there will cause the fuse to heat up and melt vs. ''blowing'' from overload.
 
If it has a remote thermostat the heat anticipator could be shorted. If it is a remote, the wire can be shorted. Usually a control issue but also could be gas valve failing. Need to isolate the wire and check for grounds with a good meter.
 
Is C (common) hooked up going to the thermostat? Could be a short in the Thermostat or wire.

If no C is present to thermostat, I would guess it's the board or the gasvalve. Since it's intermittent, I think it's the board.

Can you post the wiring diagram?
 
I have the same ones the manufacturer sold. Terminals are clean
and clear. The fuses are blowing, there is a little black mark in
the center.
 

cvphoto139491.png
 
About the only way to positively identify the problem, other than a visual inspection reveals a short to ground, is to get a box of 2 1/2 amp fuses and rig up a fused test lead.

You can do one at a time, or make up one for each component, but what you do is connect the fuse inline to each output from the board.

If there is a relay or the gas valve drawing too much current, it will blow that fuse. If those remain, and the board fuse still blows, then you can assume the board it bad.

It's a lot of trouble, but beats expensive guess work and possibly multiplying problems!
 
Had a similar problem and found that besides the common the unit had to have a separate dedicated ground wire.
 
I tried to post this earlier...

Does the thermostat wire have C hooked up?
Does the thermostat have C hooked up?

It's possible the thermostat wiring or thermostat is messed if the answer to above is yes.

Looking at the single line:
It's possible there is a wire pinched and some times shorting to ground in the cabinet. Look at the limit switches and the gas valve wiring.

Gas valves usually, in my experience work or don't work. If it had a short, it would blow the fuse all the time.

I would check the thermostat and thermostat wiring (only if C is used). Next I would go over all the wiring in the cabinet to check for rodent intrusion and pinched wires.

I would bet that the board is shot.
 

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