Back to my 65 chevys. I have two one is a C 10, the Other is a C20. both are rust buckets. The C10 is the worst. The C 20 is salvageable. They came with split rims. They all have bad tires. I am going to do my first split rim. Any safety suggestions. What is so great about split rims? Stan
- Thread starter 37 chief
- Start date
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
Split rims or Locking ring rims? There is a difference. Pictures if you don't know.
Tom in TN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Southern Middle Tennessee
37 Chief,
I'm not an expert in any way so my comment is worth little to nothing. I worked in a garage the last two years of my high school time (1961 and 1962. I do know that the man who owned the garage insisted that two small chains be wrapped around the tire before it was inflated. He swore that the ring/rim could fly off when the tire was inflated and do serious damage to anyone holding the inflation nozzle onto the tire.
Truth or fiction? I don't know.
Tom in TN
I'm not an expert in any way so my comment is worth little to nothing. I worked in a garage the last two years of my high school time (1961 and 1962. I do know that the man who owned the garage insisted that two small chains be wrapped around the tire before it was inflated. He swore that the ring/rim could fly off when the tire was inflated and do serious damage to anyone holding the inflation nozzle onto the tire.
Truth or fiction? I don't know.
Tom in TN
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
There are number of way to work with them safely if you don't have a cage to put them in. You can set a loader bucket on it so it cannot blow your head off or wrap a chain around them to keep them safe also. BTDT and have worked on thousand of them but I did it for a living at one time
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
What is so great about split rims?
Split rims are great widowmakers.
I'm cheap, I found replacement rims for my split rims.
I know a man who got the top of his skull removed with a split rim. Only problem, it didn't kill him instantly. He lived for a few weeks before dying.
Don't mess with split rims.
If you do, let me say it's been great knowing you..RIP!
Split rims are great widowmakers.
I'm cheap, I found replacement rims for my split rims.
I know a man who got the top of his skull removed with a split rim. Only problem, it didn't kill him instantly. He lived for a few weeks before dying.
Don't mess with split rims.
If you do, let me say it's been great knowing you..RIP!
Bob N.Y.
Well-known Member
- Location
- Norway, N.Y.
A C-20 should have standard 8 bolt wheels. 8 bolt drop center rims should be easy to find.
Yes they can come apart,I had a three piece come apart and it just bruised my forearms a little. A friend of mine fixed a flat and put it back on the inside dual,as the truck was driving off the ring came off and put a big dent on the shop across the street(about 200 feet)
SweetFeet
Well-known Member
Yep... we knew a young man, under 20 y.o., stopped at a local gas station to air up some split rim tires... It was the last thing he EVER did.
The dents his body made are still visible on that local gas pump which his body was blown into. Sad ending, for sure... for one waayyyy to young to die.
Don't do it, Stan... buy different rims. (your wife needs you around).
The dents his body made are still visible on that local gas pump which his body was blown into. Sad ending, for sure... for one waayyyy to young to die.
Don't do it, Stan... buy different rims. (your wife needs you around).
You have some seriously good advice here and I'll add to it. Rusty old split rims are a recipe for disaster. If you're going to stick with this idea go to a truck shop for any tire mounting but just adding air to them is potentially dangerous and they have been known to blow apart while parked with no one around.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Split rims consist of 2 pieces they (kinda) interlock in the center of the wheel width. There is no lock rim or 3rd component. I disposed of 4 within the last 2 years. I recommend the scrap yard. We enjoy your participation here, and I am sure others in your life do to. Just don't do it. Lock rim wheels have three parts and assemble on the edge where the outer rim flange is attached. They do require some critical cleaning and visual certainty of proper assembly, but are far less dangerous. I put American Racing brand wheels on my 51 GMC for just a bit more than steel wheels. Jim
Yes, for whatever reason, the top of the head often times is the first to go. My uncle owned a commercial photography business and got called to take pictures of the aftermath of a split-rim explosion. The victim's brother, co-owner of the tire shop, walked over to a table nearby, scaped some matter up and said:''Look, brains''. True story.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
lock ring wheels are OK rotary wire brush all surfaces and take images of the details before taking the tires off. They are simple, but need thoughtful reassembly. If no cage is available, use 3/8 link (log) chain around the tire through the rim at least three times (loose is Ok). Do not put your hand on the valve stem when filling, use a lock on style with a valve in the hose. Jim
MARK ROBKE
Well-known Member
I have changed them for living too, as a truck mechanic. I have seen them come apart in the safety cage- I have heard many stories about them coming apart, AND THE DAMAGE AND DEATH THEY CAUSED. They are now illegal, and I would wonder if the tires that fit them are even available. IF YOU HAVE NOT BEEN TRAINED ON THEM DO NOT FOOL WITH THEM. IF THEY ARE RUSTY, DO NOT USE THEM, DO NOT CHANGE THEM, LEAVE THEM ALONE. You should be scared to death of them. I mean it. They are very dangerous. They were designed to make changing heavy- duty tires easier, and they do. But, everything has to be perfect and RUSTY MEANS NOT PERFECT: NOT SAFE. THERE IS A REASON THEY HAVE BEEN OUT OF PRODUCTION FOR 2 OR 3 DECADES. Mark.
You said you have two rust buckets. Reduce the price according to the flat tires, let the buyer deal with it. I will say it again, you said you have two rust buckets. I wonder if you could even find a tire shop that would be willing to deal with 8 split rims. You did say they are rust buckets.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
ANY type of rim that comes apart can/will take your head off so knowing how to safely work on them is a must. I did it for a living and still do them off and on and I have never been hurt by one but I take precautions doing so and know how to do them safely
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
Before you take it apart, note whether or not the lock ring has a gap; some did, some did not. After you meticulously clean the gutter and the lock ring with a knot wheel on a 4 inch grinder, test fit the ring on the rim and see if the gap in the ring looks the same as it did before you took it apart. Make sure there are no dents in the gutter from either you or a former owner pounding the rim out of the tire. The lock ring must be able to lay flat and true in 100% of the circumference of the gutter, not supported by the bumps of careless disassembly. Once the beads are broken and the lock ring removed, get a straight tire iron or a very large screwdriver and work it down between the rim and the flap, because the flap may be rusted to the rim and prevent disassembly. Squirt soapy water wherever you have the flap lifted. Depending on where you live, salt wise, you may not have this much trouble. If you are using spoons to break the beads, and you have a lot of rust flying on the lock ring side, go around a couple more times. The more rust you knock out now, the easier the rim will come through the second bead. The rust makes the diameter of the rim larger, and you will have to stretch the second bead over this diameter if you dont get rid of it now. Once everything is rust-free and lubricated, the rim will drop right through the tire with a minimum of effort. Finally, when airing up the tire, cut the air as soon as the tire contacts the lock ring, tap the lock ring lightly into the gutter, and make sure it is going to sit squarely on the ledge of the rim. Resume with the air and it should not take more than a pound or two for the lock ring to be fully seated. If not, let the air out and see what the lock ring is stuck on. But if you were clean careful and attention to detail, the lock ring will likely go together on the first try.
showcrop
Well-known Member
Around 98% of the time that this topic comes up here the rims turn out to be locking ring rims. Not to down play the need for care, but actual split rims have not been installed in a new vehicle since the '60s, and pretty much every time one is discovered they are discarded.
Safety cages are a necessity, but in one mishap the ring blew off and broke. A piece of the broken ring flew between the cage bars and pierced the outer shop wall, the inner side of the same wall and one side of an interior wall across the shop. I always wrapped a chain through the rim about 3 or 4 times, but if the ring breaks. . . They reject a lot of wheels and rims at this shop.
UncleTom
Well-known Member
I respect tires. I had a lawn mower flat when i worked for the parks. Trying to find the leak with an air tank. I started to pump it up and it wasnt even lifting the mower off the ground yet so not many psi in it yet.. These were big mowers. It blew. After the dust settled i checked to see if my arms were still ok. It blew sand and gravel into my skin on my arms and was bleeding. Just think what a real big tire with 80 psi will do. I know the video link is tire abuse, but look at the damage.
tire blown.
tire blown.
Bob N.Y.
Well-known Member
- Location
- Norway, N.Y.
Ford, Chevy, GMC, International and maybe even Jeep used 8 bolt wheels with the same bolt circle on their 3/4 ton pickups at some point. I think the center hole is slightly smaller on the GM wheels.
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
The tirea are available for any of the ringed or split rims. since both will use the same tire just the rim difference. I've done all of them and still have some of those old split in the middle rims on wagons along with the old lock ringed wheels and rims. From 16's to 22's no not 22.5 but 22's If dual wheels I bolt the thm on with the dual out this puts the ring on the inside so no risk and if a split wheel then put them on so the dish is in and they are now no risk since the loose piece is on the inside. No cage needed. Look at the wheel/rim and you will see what I'm talking about. This is all dependent on your comfort level and pocket book. You could also look in the junkyard for some one piece wheels/rims for what you need. The newer ringed wheels have a somewhat of a drop center to them not as much as a one piece wheel but still some drop . I don't like them as well the tire is harder to get off. Again all depends on your comfort level on this. I've been doing tire work since I could get them apart about 10years old and still do them at 63 no ancient but a lot of years and never had one come apart.
Remember there are split Rims, and there are split rings.
If you have a ring or 3 around the edge of the rim to peel off, these are easy to inspect and as long as you do it right and careful they are safe. These use the shoulder of the tire to lock/press the rings tighter and tighter to keep everything locked together.
Split rims are only one style, they kind of come apart like an Oreo cookie, in the middle. You cant see what you are doing because the lock is in under the tire, and these are the dangerous ones. As well they only use the metal to lock together. Widowmaker.
So identify what you have.
Be really really careful if you have the actual split rim.
If you have a split ring style, just be careful and look for damage or rust. These can safely be worked on.
Many people dont know the difference.
If you have the actual split rims, you can often find military rims that fit the bolt pattern and are split ring, for not much money. Usually they have a good military tire on them so you get the whole package for $50-100. (Couple years ago, maybe that inflated too now?)
As well tubeless type rims are fairly easy to find for most bolt patterns, and then good used tires are piled up all over.
Several options.
Paul
If you have a ring or 3 around the edge of the rim to peel off, these are easy to inspect and as long as you do it right and careful they are safe. These use the shoulder of the tire to lock/press the rings tighter and tighter to keep everything locked together.
Split rims are only one style, they kind of come apart like an Oreo cookie, in the middle. You cant see what you are doing because the lock is in under the tire, and these are the dangerous ones. As well they only use the metal to lock together. Widowmaker.
So identify what you have.
Be really really careful if you have the actual split rim.
If you have a split ring style, just be careful and look for damage or rust. These can safely be worked on.
Many people dont know the difference.
If you have the actual split rims, you can often find military rims that fit the bolt pattern and are split ring, for not much money. Usually they have a good military tire on them so you get the whole package for $50-100. (Couple years ago, maybe that inflated too now?)
As well tubeless type rims are fairly easy to find for most bolt patterns, and then good used tires are piled up all over.
Several options.
Paul
The C10 is the same 6 lug pattern gm has used on 1/2 ton 4x4 for years. Go to a salvage yard and get some tubeless safety bead wheels.
The C20 uses 8 on 6 1/2 bolt circle wheels. Dime a dozen at a salvage yard.
Sure, reusing your old wheels is cheaper, but they are a hassle, need tubes and flaps, and may not be useable after all the work. Plus, they could get you killed. The extra expense of buying wheels would be worth it.
I just wish I could buy safety bead 16s for my International R120 project. But all wide 6 International wheels are lock ring style. So I am looking at big dollars for custom wheels.
The C20 uses 8 on 6 1/2 bolt circle wheels. Dime a dozen at a salvage yard.
Sure, reusing your old wheels is cheaper, but they are a hassle, need tubes and flaps, and may not be useable after all the work. Plus, they could get you killed. The extra expense of buying wheels would be worth it.
I just wish I could buy safety bead 16s for my International R120 project. But all wide 6 International wheels are lock ring style. So I am looking at big dollars for custom wheels.
When i mess with my split rims on my 52 chevy 2 1/2 ton truck , putting air in I ALWAYS put 3 or 4 chains around the tire so if something goes wrong it can't fly off and hurt me .. I also have a hose 4 or 5 feet long that I don't have to be right over the rim or tire ..
just my 2 cents .... mark
Destroked 450
Well-known Member
- Location
- Harned, Ky
Over the years I ve work with split rim and split ring wheels, never had a issue with one but have seen the results of more than one that blew apart
All I m going to say is the price of a good tube and inner flap will probably pay for a 6 lug Chevy or 8 lug used tubeless wheel, going tubeless will keep you and the world around you safer
David Snipes
Member
I've had Firestone multi-piece wheel training and I recommend you toss the out. You need special tools to do it correctly and you need training to do it safely.
BillinCentralMO
Well-known Member
Really ? Many people dont know that.
rusty6
Well-known Member
- Location
- East central Sask.
The big 20 inch lock ring wheels are not so bad to work with. From what I've read though I've got the dangerous ones on my 49 Mercury 3/4 ton with 7.50x17 tires. I have not attempted taking one of these apart. What I did find interesting was that I could take a same sized wheel from a 52 Chevy truck and it fit right on the Mercury. Even the Merc hub caps fit. The Chev wheel is different as it has a lock ring type wheel. You can see the open ends of the lock ring in this photo of the GM wheel.
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