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Cylinder sleeve O-Rings- replace if not pulling sleeves?

I

ironandsteel

Member
I'm refreshing my 1951 Ferguson TO20. Replacing head, new rings, old pistons. Rod and main bearings look OK, so not replacing. The sleeves look OK, so not planning on replacing.
There are apparently O-Rings around the sleeves (but I've not seen them). Should I worry about this?
Never pulled sleeves before, so I don't know anything about the O-rings that I've seen mentioned.
Thanks
 
I'd pull the sleeves while you are that close and replace the O ring seals. You could at least fill the block with water and let it set awhile, and if you
don't see any leaks gamble it's OK.
 
Sleeves should not come out to hard and new o-rings would be cheap insurance. Though I'm probably cheap enough I would change them since it is cheaper than buying a new head gasket to do them later.
 
I would replace the seals. The other work you are doing, removing, re-ringing, and replacing the pistons add to the possibility that the sleeves will get disturbed and start the seals leaking. Have you got any bolts with washers (or such) holding the sleeves down tight in the block while you work on it? Turning the engine over, head off, with the pistons in place can disturb the sleeves.
 
I am doing an in-situ rebuild. Not removing the engine. The sleeves do not appear to have moved- they are sitting flush.

I think that if I were to pull the sleeves, I would put in new ones.

Is it even possible to replace the sleeve seals without pulling the sleeves on a Continental Z120 engine?
 
You have to pull the sleeves to replace the seals. Do you have a manual? I suggest clamping the sleeves down somehow if you aren't going to reseal them.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 10/10/2022 at 05:05 pm.
 
If it's the typical old tractor engine and the sleeves have been in there for a while you will likely find them so rusted and pitted they will be unfit for reuse.

And you will be irritated by the time you get the O-ring seating area or grooves in the block clean enough to feel good about going back together with the new seals and sleeves!

More often then not, NOT a fun job!
Click to expand...
 
If it were mine, I would leave it alone. One big problem is, as soon you pull the liners, rust, 70 yers of crud, will fall on the crank
bearing area. Stan
 
Pull the sleeves and change o-rings. Did
my to35 and found enough stop leak in it
that cylinders 3 and 4 were getting no
coolant to them.
 
I rebuilt a wet sleeve engine in an Allis Chalmers WD 45 a while that has just been Overhauled by another so called mechanic. The owner
pulled the dipstick to find the crankcase full of anti-freeze. We pulled the oil pan and put a pressure test on the block to find two of the
4 cylinders had leaking O-rings. My advice -replace the O rings at minimum or better yet pull the engine and do it right. I don't or will
not do an in frame half azz overhaul on any engine. It comes out for a complete rebuild or it goes somewhere else.
 
I had a TO-30 and always thought it was a dry sleve engine same as My Ford 2N is and on that there is no O-rings as being dry sleve no need and I alwaasy thought the Fergusons were all dry sleve so no O-rings. Only a wet sleeve engine needs the O-ring.
 
If you do remove liners make sure they go back in at
same position as they wear oval

I dont know what prices are like across the pond here in
uk engine overhaul kits which include pistons and liners
are competitively priced
 
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