MF 124 baler

Midway

Member
I was given a MF 124 baler that has been setting for 20 plus years. I know nothing about balers but it seems to be all there and in good shape. I greased all areas I found and turned the flywheel by hand with a 24 inch pipe wrench. All parts moved well. I do not know about the knotters and such and do not know if it is twine or wire. My plan is learn more about it and use and play with it or sale it. Don't know about the value if it is worth much. Would it hurt to hook a tractor PTO to it if all things move freely, just don't want to break anything. The serial no. is 1474-004023. Would appreciate any comments. Anybody have knowledge on this model or those who know about balers your advice is appreciated. Thanks.
 
when working properly, mf 124 were very good balers. After 20 years of storage....JUST go slow...be sure all is free and moving properly. No rush to get it in service in the fall. It should serve you well.
 
If you need to use a 24 pipe wrench something is still binding to much. you should be able to easily spin it over with fly wheel. Don't hook tractor on till you figure out why it is so tight.
 
This is not a 100 percent certain but my guess would be if it was a wire tie there would still be remnants of the wire in the tying system. Unless someone took the time to strip it all out.
 
There are some parts and owners manuals on ebay right now for the 124 baler.Should be able to easily turn the baler by turning the flywheel by hand.
 
Id get a manual or there are post here showing knotter repairs , inspection of billhook springs , clean and stone sharp cutters. Dont use old twine ,use the mfg. recommend Ed twine . Some of the things I think of ,we have MF 224 and it a good, after a couple of years trying to figure it out we got it going . Wrapped twine around bill hook and broke it. Recommend someone watching the knotter till your positive its working correctly to stop you befor3 you break anything .very limited and expensive mistake. Good luck
Rookie mistake on that baler is costly
 

As others have said don't apply power until it is working well. You want it tying bale after bale correctly. You do this by backing tension off all the way and feeding it by hand. Make six inch long bales and pull them out so that you have no more than a foot of loose tied bales in the chamber. This make it so that it is easy to turn it by hand.
 
Replace the drive Chains. The worst thing that can happen is one of them break during use. The Plunger is very UNFORGIVING!!
 
124s are all twine, 126 is the wire version.


I have been down this road with several of these. Very good balers once some minor repairs are done.

If it has been sitting, the tightness is probably the shims which hold the plunger down to its rollers. They rust and swell making it tight.

Expect all the ball bearings to go out in the first year or two, be pleasantly surprised if some don't. All are available cheaply aftermarket if you look around and cross some numbers.

New chains are cheap insurance.

Make sure the plunger stop works.

Sharpen the twine knives razor sharp.

Sharpen the plunger knife set and it will run more smoothly and take much less power.

I use poly 7200 or 9600 of 170# knot strength, least troubles.

The needles are easy to weld if you break one as they are fabricated steel.
 

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