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1972 Ford 3000 - looking in places I shouldn't?

WI Dan

WI Dan

Well-known Member
Location
Northern Wisconsin, Price County
I'm having trouble with the range selector safety switch preventing starting of the tractor. 1972 model 3000 Ford. The switch isn't letting the engine crank.
I pulled off the plate with shifter and range selector. There was a lot of condensation dripping down. (tractor sits outside) The fluid - here's a picture.
I don't know anything about transmissions or fluids. Water probably isn't good, but maybe a few drops is okay? Does this look okay?

2nd question: Should I bypass the safety switch (aka "S" position of range selector) or replace it?

mvphoto97159.jpg


mvphoto97160.jpg
 
Replace switch. I have seen whole lot worse than that. Have pulled plug and oil came out in globs of white goo even after running quite a while.
 
Drain oil change oil and switch since you are already in there. I would look at other possibilities before changing switch. I had the washer on the lever to a N series that had the sides broken off so it had to turn to the right spot or it would not start.
 
That is amazingly clean! Most have rust everywhere!

Do change the oil and try to find where it is getting in, usually a bad shifter boot.

If jumping the switch makes it start, replace the switch. Please do not bypass it. We know you know what you
are doing, but does your 3 year old grandson?
 
Please replace or repair whatever is needed to make the safety system work. Never try to start a tractor while standing on the ground. Two farmers within 10 miles of me have been killed from starting a tractor while standing beside them. Both of the deaths were because a saftey switch was bypassed. I myself made that mistake once and was very lucky that i was not crushed. I own a 4600 Ford that is hard to find the sweet spot with the lever to crank. I hold the the key in the start position while moving the shifter until it works. I also make sure i am seated while starting the tractor.
 


The water is not from a leak it is condensation. Every tractor ever built gets it from time to time unless it is kept in a climate controlled closed building. The difference is that old tractors don't usually work hard enough for long enough to get hot enough to drive the moisture out. If you would rather not have the water in there use gear oil instead of UTF. UTF absorbs the moisture. Gear oil doesn't. The oil stays on the bottom of the case where you can just drain it off every 2-3 months.
 
That looks great inside. My 2000 switch would not work in cold weather. It had 90 wt. in it that would stall the engine in neutral when cold.
so I thought that was gumming up the switch. The oil was orange when it opened it up but nothing was rusted. I replaced it with Trans
Hydraulic. The switch was clean then didn't work at all with the new oil. I have to admit .....I bypassed it.
 
It appears that the shifter detent balls are stuck in their bores. Not sure if that would have any effect on your starting issue.
 
It may be to late but I hope not. I am not a Ford mechanic but I believe Dennis is talking about the round holes in the back part of the gasket that look like they have pins in them. I believe those should be under a little more tension and spring up easily. There are springs under them that push down on balls or pointed pins. The ball or points go into grooves on the shifter rails. Those are the detents that make it click and snap into and stay in a gear. They would also help the shift rail hood its proper location so the neutral switch contacts properly.
 
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