Model of this tractor

Rowdy1

Member
Can anyone tell me what model this tractor is so that I can get parts?
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WD or WD 45 Allis Chalmers. Very prevalent around here back when sold new. Should not be hard to find parts.
 
You sir must be a physic, I had been looking for that ever since Guru told me it was an Alis 45 (I thought it was a faded farmall, no wonder I couldn't find it) The best info I found was (on the upper left of the diff brake housing) I would have found it after a while (I think). The info in this post makes it a snap.

Thank you so much

Leonard Legg
 
Yeah tomorrow I will be seeing the tractor again. With a battery, (12v ok on this tractor?), a can of gas, a squirt can of oil, and a pipe wrench. I've checked the oil and it looks pretty good. Squirt a little in each cyl and see if it will turn over with the pipe wrench. If that's good plumb gas into the carb and see if it will fire over. Any suggestions you may have will be greatly appreciated, Expert Sir. Have any thoughts as to it's worth? The rim here at yt is $500.00 plus shipping. The tire will probably be another 2 - 3 hundred? possibly plus shipping.

Thank you again Sir

Leonard Legg
 
I sure want you to support this site but 5/6 hundred in a tire and wheel for a 6 hundred dollar
tractor is steep. Is there not a tractor salvage yard nearby around here hundred dollars would buy
you a pickup load of those wheels. Probably difference in where you are located.
 
That's why I ask that question, The tally is adding up pretty fast for the shape the tractor is in. It depends if the engine, is seized, price would have to be, free. And I doubt that. I'll be checking around for parts. Anyone know of a tractor salvage yard near SW Colorado? Or the tricks of the process to find one.


Thank you JM

Leonard Legg
 
Thank you for that info. I'm learning a lot about that tractor from you men.

Thank you

Leonard Legg
 
You got it right on. all four and the bolts. real observant. what about the compression?


Thanks Brown Dirt Cowboy

Leonard Legg
 
Straight shifter it is a WD,curved shifter, it is either a 1953 late model WD,
or a WD45
 
(quoted from post at 14:47:11 08/23/22) Yeah tomorrow I will be seeing the tractor again. With a battery, (12v ok on this tractor?), a can of gas, a squirt can of oil, and a pipe wrench. I've checked the oil and it looks pretty good. Squirt a little in each cyl and see if it will turn over with the pipe wrench. If that's good plumb gas into the carb and see if it will fire over. Any suggestions you may have will be greatly appreciated, Expert Sir. Have any thoughts as to it's worth? The rim here at yt is $500.00 plus shipping. The tire will probably be another 2 - 3 hundred? possibly plus shipping.

Thank you again Sir

Leonard Legg


That tractor originally came with a six volt battery.
 
Which issues need to be addressed? starter ok?, generator probably an issue, lights an issue, distributor ok, coil - should be ok. gauges a minor issue. How far wrong am I?
Leonard
 
Is the old rim missing or just rusted out? If rusted out, it can be welded and repaired. I'd look around the property to try and find it and
the tire.
 
I was also going to mention that the original electrical system on this tractor was 6 volts, unless there are obvious signs that it's been converted to 12.
Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.

Also, if you scroll down to the Allis Chalmers forum, you might be able to get some additional information.

This post was edited by Rich'sToys on 08/24/2022 at 08:39 am.
 
Hard to say for sure from the picture but there appears to be no side plate bolted to the block on the distributer side.
The mounting housing for the distributor is the style used on the WD-45.
There is no hole for the radiator shutter handle on the right side of the grille shell which the WDs had.
The 3 bolt wide front end support plate was still used on the WD-45s until 1954, so that is not a firm clue.
It appears to have the curved shifter. Not a firm clue either.
As 504 said, that could indicate either a late WD or all WD-45s.
So.....all things considered, I would guess it is probably an early WD-45 which is a step above the WD.
If the engine serial number which is located on the block behind the carburetor starts with 45, the engine, at least, is from a WD-45 (226 C.I.D.)
If the Engine serial number starts with WD, it's the WD (201 C.I.D.) engine.
If the tractor serial number ( located on the back LH side of the differential housing) is WD-144607 or higher, it is a WD-45.
Give us the tractor serial number and we can tell you the year of manufacture.
 
(quoted from post at 08:23:55 08/24/22) Is the old rim missing or just rusted out? If rusted out, it can be welded and repaired. I'd look around the property to try and find it and
the tire.
Yes sir. I thought about that night before last but didn't make it there yesterday. But I will today. I grew up about two miles from the folks that worked the land with this tractor. In fact I was in love with their daughter, oh my. Tomorrow/or today it is, I will search through the trees and underbrush to find the tire pile. It would be sweet to find the rim. Beyond that I will be searching for a salvage yard to find a rim I can afford to invest in for this tractors restoration. Thank you for your help sir. Will post how things go.
 
Hello Brian. Yes I will keep posts updated. You guy's are great, so much information and suggestions. Have brought me so far from not even knowing what tractor it was in such a short time. I will do my best to repay the favor to someone in the community as I find I can help. Got a few parts and knowledge laying around for old john deer's, grew up on an A and IH farmall's, H, and M.

Thank you ALL

Leonard
 
(quoted from post at 10:30:46 08/24/22) Hard to say for sure from the picture but there appears to be no side plate bolted to the block on the distributer side.
The mounting housing for the distributor is the style used on the WD-45.
There is no hole for the radiator shutter handle on the right side of the grille shell which the WDs had.
The 3 bolt wide front end support plate was still used on the WD-45s until 1954, so that is not a firm clue.
It appears to have the curved shifter. Not a firm clue either.
As 504 said, that could indicate either a late WD or all WD-45s.
So.....all things considered, I would guess it is probably an early WD-45 which is a step above the WD.
If the engine serial number which is located on the block behind the carburetor starts with 45, the engine, at least, is from a WD-45 (226 C.I.D.)
If the Engine serial number starts with WD, it's the WD (201 C.I.D.) engine.
If the tractor serial number ( located on the back LH side of the differential housing) is WD-144607 or higher, it is a WD-45.
Give us the tractor serial number and we can tell you the year of manufacture.

Well I got to the tractor for a while today, Good news, and BAD news. The Tractor serial # on the differential is WD165943 - A 45? And the engine serial# is 451007-31GH -A 45? However there is not a bolt on plate on the right side of the block - not a 45? Now the bad news the engine is froze up. And I couldn't find the tire and rim. There is no hole in the grill for shutter control. A 45? Next chance I get I will drain some oil from the pan to see how much water has set in there. Notice the exhaust pipe is bent over, I presumed someone with a brain cell did that to keep water out? I took hold of the exhaust and it was loose. I wiggled it a little and it came right out. I put it back in and checked it from below the hood and the outer part did not reach down to the exhaust manifold tube. Also the exhaust pipe had a small tube inside that did go into the exhaust manifold but was only about an inch to maybe an inch and a half in dia. Did not appear to fit anything to stop any water getting on the exhaust pipe from draining down into the exhaust system and valves. I imagine that it has been setting there ever since Craig died, about 25 years ago. Serious rust I imagine.

Later
Leonard
 
(reply to post at 06:43:50 08/26/22)

Actually, the absence of the side plate indicates a WD-45 engine. The engine number you posted might be a block casting number.
The Serial number will be "stamped" into a boss cast into the block behind the carburetor and should read 45-XXXXX-X, the last being a letter.
Your tractor serial number indicates an early 1954; the numbers 160386 - 190992 were used in that year.
Based on your tractor serial number, the engine number will probably be in the neighborhood of 17400 to 20000.
It appears that your tractor is an original early WD-45.
I won't give you much hope on the engine being very good. It will likely need a whole lotta new stuff inside!
The muffler/manifold setup on these old Allis tractors has been the demise of many of their engines.
 
Others have been very kind so I will give a reality check. You asked what it is so you could get parts. It looks like that [i:4a3435cc8b]is[/i:4a3435cc8b] a pile of parts to go on an already-working tractor. If you spend $500 on a rim, you will have a tractor worth [i:4a3435cc8b]maybe[/i:4a3435cc8b] $500 and then you will need at least a tire. It is 'worth' what it weighs for scrap.

If this is just a hobby you are starting and cost isn't really a factor then you could have lots of fun getting this heap going and looking really sharp. But if you need a tractor to do some work or you need to keep things practical cost-wise, then you should keep looking.

Sorry if that sounds harsh but it's the unvarnished truth.
 
(quoted from post at 00:40:35 08/27/22) Others have been very kind so I will give a reality check. You asked what it is so you could get parts. It looks like that [i:a441472d27]is[/i:a441472d27] a pile of parts to go on an already-working tractor. If you spend $500 on a rim, you will have a tractor worth [i:a441472d27]maybe[/i:a441472d27] $500 and then you will need at least a tire. It is 'worth' what it weighs for scrap.

If this is just a hobby you are starting and cost isn't really a factor then you could have lots of fun getting this heap going and looking really sharp. But if you need a tractor to do some work or you need to keep things practical cost-wise, then you should keep looking.

Sorry if that sounds harsh but it's the unvarnished truth.

I know what you say is probably very true and I appreciate your realistic look at it but I just can't give up yet. Today I filled the cylinders and the exhaust with my own concoction of diesel fuel, ATF, marvel mystery oil, and acetone, to try to break it loose. If I can get it to move then I think It may be worth salvaging. IF I can find a salvage yard to get a rim and used tire at a reasonable price. Then maybe I can get by with a valve job, a set of rings, main, and rod bearings. I checked the oil at the start, and it looked good, When I pulled the plugs today they looked real good, like it was running just fine when it was parked there. If someone would have just took action to keep the water out of the exhaust.

Now I'm looking for some advice on how to best break it loose. Where and how is the best way to get hold of the crank where I can CRANK on it? Figured a week or two soaking might get it loose. Sure would like to get it back in operation. It belonged to a close family friend, long ago. I would greatly appreciate any advice along these lines.


Thank all of you for all of your advice, knowledge and wisdom.

Leonard
 

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