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Bigger tires for John Deere 3010.

R

ReTex5

Member
Can I put wider tires on my 3010?

Right now the the tractor is running on 14.9-38 tires on 13-38 rims.

Now I use this tractor as a utility tractor not a row crop, has wide front end and loader.

I have been just digging into the sand around here, I know the tractor is powerful enough, I just don't have enough grip.

But on the flip side, I don't want to over torque anything.

Also I noticed from when I was bogging down it looks like the rim moved in on the axle about 2 inches.

Is that bad?
 
The wheel should not move on the axle, not at all. Something is wrong.
Check the axle clamp setup.
I don't know if wider tires would even help with your issue.
Someone else who live in sandy country can help with that.
 
What are the torque specs of the axle clamp?

I have a new impact, I might not have set it high enough.
 
I have a similar tractor, (JD 2520). It had 15.5/38, I put 16.9/38, no clearance issues.

As far as the rim moving, check your center hub wedges (3 bolts outside/3 bolts inside) the wedges should be tight. If they're loose, take them out and put some grease on the threads. I'd assume you have about 6-8 bolts with wedges around the center hub to the rim, check those bolts for tightness. If your missing any of those bolts or wedges, you could run the chance of the rim coming off the hub if under a high torque condition.
 
I'll definitely check them bolts, but as far as the tire goes that does not hardly seem worth it to get new rims for only 3 inch wider tires.
 
You would need to switch to 14" or 15" rims to go to 16.9-38 tires.

How is the tractor weighted? You might benefit more by filling the tires with fluid or stacking on wheel weights.
 
(quoted from post at 08:30:10 08/17/22) Could I use the same rim I have?
Click to expand...

Once you get more than about 1" too narrow for a tire you start to lose the advantage of the wider tire, as it has to be "pinched" to fit on the rim. This causes the tread to bulge out when you really want it as flat as possible for sandy conditions.

I'm surprised with a front end loader that your main concern isn't with the front wheels sinking in.

Speaking of that do you have adequate weight on the rear for traction? The front end loader does cause the tractor to be nose-heavy, and the rear to be light if you don't add weight. Usually full fluid and at least 2 sets of weights on each tire is needed for loader work on a 2WD tractor, unless you have a ballast weight on the 3pt.
 
Yes is bad. The bolts that push the wedges out. They need to be out. For you to tightned the wedges. Lots of wd40. A 3010 is just a little shorter than a 4010 so you can put any tires you want on it. Wider rims would be better but I pull antiques and tend to favor a narrower rim. I think sand tires are round on bottom not flat. Do what you want.
 
How much weight do you have on the back? (filled tires, wheel weights or 3 point weight barrel) Problem may not be wider tires, but not enough counter weight when you have a bucket full.

Mike
 
What condition are your 14.9-38 tires and rims? You might be able to trade for a set of used 18.4-38 tires and rims for not much money.

Fluid in the rear tires or a lot of expensive cast iron weights is a necessity on any 2WD loader tractor with a heavy loader.
 
It's got fluid in the tires, no weights.

Empty it pulls fine, but a 5-700 pound log
on the front and your going nowhere.
 
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