- Thread starter baydog1
- Start date
M-MAN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bostic, NC
Yes it can be rolled to the right side. It isn't easy and you might say a bad word or two but it will come out.
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
If that tight why not loosen bolts and wedge a chisel in the crack to get a bit more room?
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Yes it can be done but you have to hold your mouth just right and say the right words to make it come off
Thank you everyone for the help with the valve cover and everyone was right. It does come off and it wasn't to bad but I did have to hold my mouth just right, say the right words, I bent the tabs up a little bit and defiantly roll it over and out the right side. So thanks again everyone! Reason why I had to remove valve cover is the tractor ran perfect for the job I was doing. It got to dark outside so I figured to finish the job the next morning. Jumped on tractor next morning. When I cranked it over to start, sounded like it had no compression. Long story short it didn't have any compression! One push rod on #1 cylinder had kicked out and fell forward at the top toward rocker arm and didn't bend, push rod on #2 cylinder was out at the bottom and bent. Had to happen when I shut the engine down. So all men, women and children please learn by my mistake!! DO NOT let your engine do that spitting, sputtering and running backward like we've all have done at one time or another with any gas motor. I usually slow engine down to as low as I have the idle set, and I set it low for that creepy crawl but not this time...Had it running a little above idle when I shut the engine down. Did what anyone would do when the dinner bell rang...shut the tractor down and it wanted to spit and sput and run backwards so I did like we've all have done with almost any gas engine and that was, hold down on the brake for like 3 seconds and it shut down...Next morning no compression. Had to happen because I didn't let come all the way down to slowest idle. So everyone...Don't do what I did!! Dinner was good but lunch time sucked the next day 
Now I got to figure out how to remove push rod.. Gas tank gonna have to move this time I believe. Anyway thanks for all your help and remember to bring your engine down to complete idle when shutting down!
Now I got to figure out how to remove push rod.. Gas tank gonna have to move this time I believe. Anyway thanks for all your help and remember to bring your engine down to complete idle when shutting down!
showcrop
Well-known Member
(quoted from post at 08:03:45 08/16/22) Thank you everyone for the help with the valve cover and everyone was right. It does come off and it wasn't to bad but I did have to hold my mouth just right, say the right words, I bent the tabs up a little bit and defiantly roll it over and out the right side. So thanks again everyone! Reason why I had to remove valve cover is the tractor ran perfect for the job I was doing. It got to dark outside so I figured to finish the job the next morning. Jumped on tractor next morning. When I cranked it over to start, sounded like it had no compression. Long story short it didn't have any compression! One push rod on #1 cylinder had kicked out and fell forward at the top toward rocker arm and didn't bend, push rod on #2 cylinder was out at the bottom and bent. Had to happen when I shut the engine down. So all men, women and children please learn by my mistake!! DO NOT let your engine do that spitting, sputtering and running backward like we've all have done at one time or another with any gas motor. I usually slow engine down to as low as I have the idle set, and I set it low for that creepy crawl but not this time...Had it running a little above idle when I shut the engine down. Did what anyone would do when the dinner bell rang...shut the tractor down and it wanted to spit and sput and run backwards so I did like we've all have done with almost any gas engine and that was, hold down on the brake for like 3 seconds and it shut down...Next morning no compression. Had to happen because I didn't let come all the way down to slowest idle. So everyone...Don't do what I did!! Dinner was good but lunch time sucked the next day
Neither of my 172s have ever run backwards in 20 years.
When my tractor gets a good work out meaning up to running temp. for awhile, if I don't bring the engine down to a complete idle for a couple seconds SOMETIMES it
will do that clunk clunk and kinda sneeze making engine seem like it's turning backward. Every time it does it's my fault for not letting engine slow all the way down. At running temp. can you cut your
tractor off at any speed and it doesn't try to spit and sputter before the engine comes to complete stop or any gas engine you've ever owned?
will do that clunk clunk and kinda sneeze making engine seem like it's turning backward. Every time it does it's my fault for not letting engine slow all the way down. At running temp. can you cut your
tractor off at any speed and it doesn't try to spit and sputter before the engine comes to complete stop or any gas engine you've ever owned?
showcrop
Well-known Member
I may have never done that. I may have never had to do a full load full speed emergency shut down. Now that you describe it that way I may have been near one as a kid that made that sort of sound when shut off. I don't think that it was from a full throttle shut down however.
I've never done a full throttle shut down. I've owned the tractor for at least 10 years and hardly ever go more than 1/3 throttle. Most the time tractor is ran just above idle so when I go to shut it down lots of time I forget to back down throttle because it's not really running that fast and doesn't do the kick back thing all the time but when it does kickback when shutting down most the time, it's just above idle, never had it do it at dead idle. Tractor is old but in good condition and very faithful. It's just the right size to do a lot of chorus around home just above idle. Anyway now I have to figure out how to get the push rod out. Do you know if the tank and sheet metal has to come off or if there's any trick to getting push rod out without pulling tank? I've raised the tank but still need a couple more inches to get it out. Thanks
Wow Showcrop man were you right about the hole isn't much bigger than the push rod itself. And If I had a new push rod on hand I defiantly would of replaced it.
It was hardly bent but every time I thought it was straight and put it back in it would pop out after 4 or 5 good turns with the starter. Had to break out the
dial indicator. Got it straighten enough that I could put it in a different hole and it would work fine but when I put in the hole it originally came from it
still would pop out. So after walking away from it 4 or 5 times yesterday on the way n the house I gave it one more shot. I found that the valve was returning
slow like maybe the valve spring was weak?? Of course I went right into the panic of the valve being slightly bent but it would always return to full closing of
the valve just lazy return causing the push rod to kinda fall to the side of the hole and pop out. Used a brass small hammer and tapped on every other valve
spring and all of them returned quicker than I could lift the hammer. Took off rocker assembly and used a small flat head screw driver and poked at the umbrella
valve seal. It didn't seem rock hard or brittle. I used the small flat head and pried up on the valve seal and sprayed carb. cleaner and seafoam pentation oil
on it and kept tapping spring. About time I was giving up for the night, just one more tap with the hammer did it. Now the spring returns as it should. The
tractor is used at least a couple days a week or more. Why do you thing that valve started getting sticky? You think maybe I should put an additive in the oil
to help out before I change the oil or what? Have you ever had a sticky valve show it's ugly head on a engine that is used a couple times a week?
Thanks
It was hardly bent but every time I thought it was straight and put it back in it would pop out after 4 or 5 good turns with the starter. Had to break out the
dial indicator. Got it straighten enough that I could put it in a different hole and it would work fine but when I put in the hole it originally came from it
still would pop out. So after walking away from it 4 or 5 times yesterday on the way n the house I gave it one more shot. I found that the valve was returning
slow like maybe the valve spring was weak?? Of course I went right into the panic of the valve being slightly bent but it would always return to full closing of
the valve just lazy return causing the push rod to kinda fall to the side of the hole and pop out. Used a brass small hammer and tapped on every other valve
spring and all of them returned quicker than I could lift the hammer. Took off rocker assembly and used a small flat head screw driver and poked at the umbrella
valve seal. It didn't seem rock hard or brittle. I used the small flat head and pried up on the valve seal and sprayed carb. cleaner and seafoam pentation oil
on it and kept tapping spring. About time I was giving up for the night, just one more tap with the hammer did it. Now the spring returns as it should. The
tractor is used at least a couple days a week or more. Why do you thing that valve started getting sticky? You think maybe I should put an additive in the oil
to help out before I change the oil or what? Have you ever had a sticky valve show it's ugly head on a engine that is used a couple times a week?
Thanks
showcrop
Well-known Member
Sticking valves are usually caused by carbon build-up. A few years ago two guys here on the Ford forum had it happen. I remember that it was blamed on ethanol gas. Carbon is usually due to the engine being worn so that oil is getting past the rings. It is also caused by frequent short run times so that the engine doesn't come up to temperature. It would be a good idea to take a look inside the combustion chambers to take a look. Carbon can be removed by misting with water.
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