Loctite 660 and tie rod.shim.

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member

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Old tie rod damaged the place on spindle. Made the hole egg shaped.


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I bought a tapered ream for tie rods and cleaned the hole.

Then I made a shim out of a half inch copper coupler, one you solder on.

Cleaned up the shim with tapered ream.
Used old tie rod tapper end and hammered shim in place.

Applied LT 660 to the hole and the shim. The LT 660 is like a paste. I'm guessing it has metal particles in it. Used old damaged tie rod end and gave it a good wack with 2# Hammer.

Put good end in place, tighten the nut and all is good.

I'll keep an eye on it.

Don't get your shorts in a bind. The Terramite's top speed is a fast walk.
Once before the tie rod fell on and no one was killed. I couldn't go anywhere, wheel was sideways.

LT 660 is supposed to be a bushing filler and machinable.

I have other plans for LT660 after I got a 2 inch hone I'llsee if experiment works.

What have you used LT660 for?
 
(quoted from post at 10:33:39 08/11/22)
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto132913.jpg>

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto132915.jpg>
Old tie rod damaged the place on spindle. Made the hole egg shaped.


<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto132916.jpg>
I bought a tapered ream for tie rods and cleaned the hole.

Then I made a shim out of a half inch copper coupler, one you solder on.

Cleaned up the shim with tapered ream.
Used old tie rod tapper end and hammered shim in place.

Applied LT 660 to the hole and the shim. The LT 660 is like a paste. I'm guessing it has metal particles in it. Used old damaged tie rod end and gave it a good wack with 2# Hammer.

Put good end in place, tighten the nut and all is good.

I'll keep an eye on it.

Don't get your shorts in a bind. The Terramite's top speed is a fast walk.
Once before the tie rod fell on and no one was killed. I couldn't go anywhere, wheel was sideways.

LT 660 is supposed to be a bushing filler and machinable.

I have other plans for LT660 after I got a 2 inch hone I'llsee if experiment works.

What have you used LT660 for?

Loctite 660 will bond your shim, tie rod end and arm hole together, it is a bonding filler. This was gone over when you posted about your tie rod before.

Please read the Technical data sheet, which you can find by web searching Loctite 660 TDS. Nowhere does either it, or the marketing description, say it can be machined. The machineable products are applied in the open and harden. 660 hardens when it is between two parts, no open air, restoring press fits.
 
Jim,
You may be right. I'm doing a test to see if 660 will harden. If
not I have other thread lockers I'll try...

Epoxy doesn't seem to work well..
 
What about using copper spray paint?

K&W 401612 Copper Coat Aerosol - 9 Wt Oz High Tack Sealant for
Metallic, Hard Surfaces, Rubber Gaskets Automotive Adhesives &
Sealants.

I've used it on head gaskets before.

I've ordered some 400g stones for honing cylinders.

Paint the area inside the cylinder that need filled in, tiny
pits. Let it dry for days, then sand level with 4 inch 400g
hone.

If copper paint works, after sanding you should see copper left
in the pits. No biggie if the small amount of copper breaks off
and gets in hyd oil. The copper won't go through the pump.

There is a filter the oil goes through before it returns to the
tank.
 
(quoted from post at 13:01:45 08/11/22) What about using copper spray paint?

K&W 401612 Copper Coat Aerosol - 9 Wt Oz High Tack Sealant for
Metallic, Hard Surfaces, Rubber Gaskets Automotive Adhesives &
Sealants.

I've used it on head gaskets before.

I've ordered some 400g stones for honing cylinders.

Paint the area inside the cylinder that need filled in, tiny
pits. Let it dry for days, then sand level with 4 inch 400g
hone.

If copper paint works, after sanding you should see copper left
in the pits. No biggie if the small amount of copper breaks off
and gets in hyd oil. The copper won't go through the pump.

There is a filter the oil goes through before it returns to the
tank.

There may be a filter before the oil returns to the tank, but it also goes through your valves before it goes to the tank. Score them and cylinders up with the things you want to try, and you will need replacements.

Copper spray is a sealing/adhesive coating for the interfaces of non-moving parts, that get clamped together, not a wear coating that gives a hard-wearing surface for moving parts.

Loctite 660 is an anaerobic retaining compound.

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I have used Loctite 660 for retaining purposes as intended (and many other Loctite products for other things) and copper spray on gaskets. Don't you think if the products you are talking about worked for your purposes, Henkel/Loctite would have proven them and advertise them for such, then people would be telling you to use them?

My advice, not that you will care, is: Don't try to find something that [u:da36e38d00]might[/u:da36e38d00] stick in pits. I've seen it tried on cylinders and rods, and it never lasted. Just hone the cylinders and polish the rods with crocus cloth and reseal them. Use a whetstone on any big pits on the rods to smooth the edges before the crocus cloth. If they are real bad find a shop capable of replacing cylinder barrels and making rods, if they are not standard off the shelf cylinders.

Continue with your tests. Good luck
 
Jim,
I hate the way my cylinders are built.
Rust can form between the retaining
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Wire and the O ring.

I replaced this cylinder because I
couldn't stop it from


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Leaking.

Now after rebuilding I pack grease around
the wire in hope it won't rust.

I need to fill in the rust pits on the end
of the cylinder. No moving parts.

I got something in the mail today that's
supposed to build up the metal.

I have to try something. Can't see how it
will hurt.

Glad my first terramite wasn't abused like
this one.

A 4 inch 400g hone might help rebuilding
the rusted area.
 

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