IH 560 Reuild

My 560 with the D282 recently started puking oil out of the blow by tube, I went to change the oil and filters and found large chunks of the piston sleeve in the oil pan. Now for the first time I am doing a in frame overhaul. After pulling the head it was obvious the sleeves were loose, they would come out with the piston with a few light taps from underneath. All of the bores appear to be in good shape (no cracks) but it appears someone has worked on the tractor before permatex gaskets and such. The crank bearings i toom out were (2420 FM VE 010 U.S.) im guessing this is -10 bearing? the sleeves say SL189MSTD and on the bottom of the sleeve 4391. I started measuring the crank where the bearing fits. The book says the crank original is 2.3735 my measurments are...

6=2.3514
5=2.3514
4=2.3735
3=2.3715

I stopped at that... I'm trying to figure out what size bearing i should go with?

What size sleeve I need? standard or oversize?

Why the sleeve shattered in the first place? I noticed three of the sleeves the had cracks around the top of the flare. maybe the head wasn't tightened correctly or the head bolts stretched?

where is a good place to buy a kit?

Thanks for the help!







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The crank needs to come out & be ground for sure.

Is that because the wear is so uneven?

Ii agree with Teddy. .002 difference is excessive for using the same size bearings. The loose sleeves need to be much tighter in
the bore. The process when put together at the factory was to select fit sleeves into bores. Letters were stamped next to the
bore for the correct sleeve to be placed. Jim

yes, as jim and teddy and me say.

take it to a machine shop,... they are qualified to do the job correctly so you have .0015 brg. clearance once they are done. this is an
example of a patch job. sleeves too loose and who knows how much brg clearance as you did not tell us that. didnt you measure the brgs.with
plastigage to see what they are at? good idea to do it . i get curious and do it. sleeves should be tightly pushed in.

Hello 560 man welcome to YT! You have got a tricky
one there. Sorry, but providing those measurements
and then asking the bearing sizes you need lets us
know you just do not have the knowledge and
experience to tackle this job and have a good chance
at a positive outcome. Pull the engine out and take it to
a machine shop that has a good reputation of quality
work. The extra dollars will be money well spent. You
better like this tractor a lot because chances are you
will have as much in the engine as you could probably
sell the tractor for in running condition. It would
probably be a good idea to drop off a copy of the IH
Blue Ribbon repair manual ..see link.. for those engines
when you leave it at the machine shop. Very specific fit
tolerances on those sleeves and the deck protrusions.
YT IH engine manual

yep, the same thing i just told him.

Are you starting it with starting fluid?

Have your connecting rods checked and reconditioned,they are bent.

I commented on the other forum where you posted it in tool talk and it pretty much concurs with what you are being told here by Jim ,rustred,and used Red MN. Worded slightly different but pretty much the same.

If you want tp eliminate all sleeve trouble get a later block. The early blocks used slip fit sleeves, the later 236/282 diesel blocks used heavy press fit sleeves that
don't break/crack like the early sleeves would sometimes do.

You got good advice, unfortunately it may be cost prohibitive for a tractor of that age. I had a 203 Perkins drop a sleeve in the pan, when it happened it nearly scared dad to death and after it had a pretty good knock. When I installed the new sleeves they where tight. I had to ball hone the parent bore and cool the sleeves with dry ice and fuel oil. After heating the block they pushed in, one went about 3/4 and stopped and I had to pull it and start over. It pulled very hard. Of the original sleeves one pulled out and two were loose, one with a cracked flange. I never figured out why the original sleeves where loose and the replacements were tight. The motor was a rebuilt motor from a Perkins shop, the original broke a crank. The local shop installs sleeves with red lock tight and I have been told coating the sleeve with iodine will rust them tight. Are you sure you got a good reading when micing the crank, it takes a pretty good feel.

SL189MSTD can be a Sealed Power part # standard size sleeve.
SL189M.002 and SL189M.010 are also listed.
5 and 6 look like .020 with .002 shim.
4 is standard
3 looks to be .002 bearing or std with .002 shim.

Sleeve is for D282 to serial # 71778 only.

I apparently need to learn how to measure a crank with a micrometer better. I re did the measurements after a bit of schooling on how to read a micrometer and the crank is between 2.3635 and 2.3639. so, it
appears that ordering -.010 bearings would be fine. As far as ordering new sleeves... to my knowledge the bores have never been honed. so do I just order the standard size sleeve? As you guys can guess I'm
trying to avoid splitting the tractor if possible.

Never

So is it possible the wrong sleeves were put in? the serial number for this tractor stars with 26

My book says SL189M fit D282 to serial # 71778 only,
UD 282 to #10227
D282H between #s 1137 to 10251.There is enough difference between the 2 sleeves listed that you could not mix them up. Flanges are different thickness and diameter.
You do want sleeves to protrude a wee bit. .004 is common.
I have heard of sleeve retainer/ adhesive, never have used it.

My guess is some of your sleeves need to be .002 oversize.